5523Pathfinder

Well, it's actually this way now.... I used the 1-2in version .. http://www.hi-lift.com/accessories/tube-mount.html

Looks good man! Is it just the photos or does the rear sit lower?

Jim, I'm sorry. Not only did they steal from you, they stole from us. Something tells me it was someone local who knew you were gone and had been watching it. Obviously, it won't be sold whole without a title, so I will keep a eye out for those parts. The ARB would be the red flag, it's got to pop up somewhere. You lost it once and got it back, let's hope it will happen a second time! Worse comes to worse, it's only a vehicle and you can always get another one. Keep us informed!

You and me both man. We aren't the ones driving around in expensive cars. Yet we do more work than anyone.

I'm sure you dropping a injector. Only two in your rig, change them both and see how it does.

So, what sold me on engine flushes many years ago, was doing one on a cadillac I used to own. 81 Coupe de Ville Fleetwood with a 368 in it(with that stupid 8-6-4 cylinder deactivation system). Anyway, this was my moms car for years, then it was giving to my little brother. I can't say it had many timely oil changes in any of that time. When I got it, it looked great, but ran like crap. I had done a tuneup on it about a year and a half before this, so I knew it wasn't spark related. I tried fuel system cleaners, induction service and fuel injector cleaning and made little difference. After sitting about 6 months my garage, I wanted to get out in it. I took it to work to change the oil, which again, was not in the best shape. I was a bit skeptical of the engine flush at that time, but thought, what the heck, why not try and clean things up(and a good opportunity to have a first hand experience with it). Upon putting in new oil and filter and firing up, it immediately ran better, idled smoother and was a ton more quiet. It was kind of smokey too and it was almost gone now. I had changed the oil before and didn't have this kind of result. The oil stayed very clean for a long time, even until the time I sold it about a year and a half later. I will say, yes, this is not for a super gunked up engine. With lots of gunk, you've got bigger problems. But, as a way to devarnish the lubrication system to stop buildup, it's worth it in my book.

I've heard several of them. Haven't been able to get them to buy the fixe though. Seems like they all make that noise.

So, did it have oil in it? I really liked using Consult. 3+ is freaking awesome and pretty quick. There are a lot worse tools out there(ford IDS, Toyota Techstream).

I don't completely agree with this. Maybe on newer engines, but ours do just fine. I have done hundreds of engine flushes to Nissans and Infinitis as preventive maintenance. Any flush won't get everything out. But if you are going over recommended intervals for oil changes, it's not a bad idea to have it done/do it once and a while. Again, depends on what the chemical does to the sludge. I know for one, I have held a chunk of oil slugde in my hand and put it in mineral spirits from the flush machine above, and it basicly dissolved in my hand. I've have also done it several time to my pathfinder with no issues. It did quiet up my lifters though.

Just remember, anything knocked loose can make it to your oil pan and possibly block your oil pickup. I've used and highly recommend a machine to do the flushing. Can't remember the name of the machine I used to use, but it used a mineral spirits to back flush the system and suck it out the drain plug. Oh yeah! http://www.envirolution.com/nvr_home.htm

Not when that semi is broken! Also through in my new rear panhard drop bracket. I will have to update my profile and member page tomorrow.

Got my eFan swap complete! Only been 2-1/2 years since I got the stuff! I will be adding pics to my member profile soon! No more roaring semi noises!

I'd be down with a Sammy. I see more and more Vitaras getting the off road treatment. Kinda cool in my book. Most Sammy's here are either hammered or they want way too much for them.

Nissan like to call them the Torque Member. Some replacement calipers come with them.

Yes, it's the spiral cable. Don't spin it! I spun to many times, the cable will break. It's not hard to do. Disconnect the battery, removed the two plugs(if they are there) on the back of the steering wheel. They hold on the airbag mount bolts which may be a 10mm bolt, or a tamper proof torx bolt. Once you have both bolts removed lift the airbag out and disconnect the clips. Place the airbag away from you, outside the vehicle, with he bag pointed up. Then, remove the nut holding the steering wheel on. If you leave the nut on a thread or two, you can then pull the wheel back hand. Just rock it back and forth at the 9&3 positions. Remove the column covers and you will see the screws holding the spiral cable on.

Maybe, what may be happening is some corrosion in the connector causing some things to work, and others short or not work.. Joys of electrical repair. Gotta get in there and do some testing. It's possible you have a SECU failing. The only way to know for sure is to check your powers, grounds, inputs and outputs. Diagnosing over the 'net isn't exactly easy. Have patience.

I would check for power at connector E1/M1. Inspect the connector for any corrosion. All those things not working should lead to one thing causing the problem.

You can pull the motor with the manifolds still attached, just be careful not to catch them on anything. Remove your torque converter bolts and tun the crank a little to break loose the connection of rust. Remove the bell housing bolts that attach to the engine. Don't try to separate until you support the transmission with a stand or jack(use a block of wood). Jack the engine up slightly and pull towards the front of your rig. Take a quick look to make sure the torque converter stays in place. If it gets stuck to the flywheel and comes out with the engine, immediately fill it back up with some ATF and spin it in. It should drop 2 or three times and be about a inch passed the bellhousing.

Sorry, I should of added, no, you don't need to loosen the rockers at all. You don't need to touch the top of the engine, really.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/12828-how-to-change-your-timing-belt/

1. Obd II is 96 and newer.

X2 on the wheel bearings. I've seen them loose and create plenty of shaking.

Are you talking about the left side? That's for the EGR tube. O2 is a bit further back

I just noticed, and it dawned on me, how did you adjust the valves? Hydraulic lifters don't need adjustment. Did you do it? A shop? And before or after your power issues?