5523Pathfinder

Jims pathfinder was stolen up that way, it would be interesting to see if that bumper is off of it.

Looks like a aftermarket light switch, maybe for fog lights or something. It's not factory.

Ordered new headlights, upgraded harness and new right front corner lens. I can't wait to see better at night!

Looks like the factory plug to the tralier brake connector.

Have you tried cleaning your air flow meter?

Not too far from where Jims truck was stolen iirc. Hmm, something going on up there?

Were you testing the 4wd on pavement? This can cause binding in the system, creating the noises. The 80-90 you got looks fine and should do the job(same stuff we used at the Nissan dealer I used to work at). It should say on the bottle wether or no you need a lsd additive. I would go ahead and change the transfer case fluid and go from there.

75mph might be your issue. Being aerodynamic as a brick, faster you go, more drag-less miles per gallon. Oh, try bumping your air pressure up to 30psi. More isn't always better, but a touch more might help things.

Have you actually done the fuel mileage calculations? Reason I ask is that its well known our fuel guages are not exactly accurate all the time. What kind of mileage are you expecting? What kind of tires do you run? What pressures? Are you lifted or stock? Alignment ok? Air filter and box clean and clear of obstructions? When is the last time you changed the oil? Too much oil can cause issues. Have you recently changed where you fill up with fuel? What kind of fuel. Sorry for all the questions but there are lots of things as a possibility.

Im considereing these.... http://www.anzousa.com/nissan-hardbody-88-89-pathfinder-87-95-crystal-h-l-chrome.html along with the harnss upgrade.

Power for the obd port is tied into the cig lighter circuit. Make sure your fuses are good.

I hope your taking lots of pictures.

Brought him into my work today and replaced my upper control arm bushings. They made it over 100k miles, so I can't complain(A/C arms). Performed a alignment and had to only add one 1 1/16 shim to the left front. No more pull! I also threw in a new fuel filter cause I'm not sure the last time I changed it!

There is not adjustment for fuel pressure. It changes only by vacuum under load. B.s.? Yes!

Gonna need some codes to really be able to help. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/21-ecu-self-diagnostics-for-87-95-pathfinder/

Never rebuilt one, not even sure they can be! As far as replacing it, no wrench is needed. Remove the small lower piece of the fan shroud, unbolt the rest of the shroud and remove. Then you can remove the 4 10mm nuts holding the fan clutch onto the water pump. The drive belt can be left on to assist in holding the pulley(you may have to use a flahead screwdriver to hold the other nuts/studs).

You can also manipulate the cams just a touch to give the belt some more slack. More or less transfering the slack in the belt to down by the tensioner. Carefull as if you move the cams too much they will spring backwards on you. As stated before, if this happens, roll the cam back up and try again. Yes, it can be a bit tricky on some. Yes, turn the tensioner clockwise to about the 9 oclock position or so. It will begin to push back out if you go around any further.

Lay the belt on the cams first(be sure to align your marks), then the crank(yep, mark there too) then slide it over the tensioner. If you dont have the tensioner backed off enough, it can make it tough to slide over.

If you do it quickly, you shouldn't loose much fluid to really make a difference. If you want to feel better, buy a bottle.

Yep! That's it!

I'd like to see that fuse holder...

I would ask the dealer how they came up with that quote. Its just too high. If they really want your business, they will be happy to show you the time breakdown(but i already showed you that). Any other dealers in your area?

Times from AllData... Rear main seal R&R with automatic transmission- 9.8hrs(I would normally quote 10hr). Factory price for seal- $40 This is pulling the transmission and replacing the seal. If there hourly rate is $100 x 10hrs + cost of seal, does not add up to almost $2000. A quote around $1000 is about right. I would love to see your dealer quote. Maybe add time for rust if thats the case, but not another 10 hours. A coworker of mine who just moved last year from Tennesse said the Toyota shop he worked in was $112 a hour. Im sure the nissan dealer is in the same area for hourly rate. Remember, Nissan gives a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty on all repairs(in case they botch it up).