5523Pathfinder

There are lots of CB radio threads and pics from other members rigs. here is a link to take you to the search. Type in cb radio or antenna, then select titles only. You should get a long page of threads! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?app=core&module=search&section=search&do=search&fromsearch=1

I have a Optima that I have had since 2004. It's been killer. Saved my butt when my alternator died on the trail. The newer Optimas have a bad rep for failing early. I'd say it's 50/50 chance either way. I have heard awesome things about Odyssey batteries.. http://www.odysseybattery.com

This is a question that has been asked if all model pathfinders. For the most part, it is probably easier to just go out and buy/trade for a 4wd version. That's not the answer most want to hear, but when it comes down to keeping things factory, the cost can get kinda high. Some have done it and I'm not telling you your shouldn't, but it's your money and time. For the most part, you will probably need a transmission and transfer case. The wiring should be there fo the transfer case, but it may be different. You will probably need different contort units as they need to talk to each other to know what systems on on the vehicle. This may include the ECM, ABS/VDC module, trans control unit(inside transmission) and possibly some others. Then you run into a few sensor issues as your adding a front differential. The transfer case engaging switch in the dash and associated parts. You would have to double check to make sure the gears in the rear match(which may have to be swapped also). The list could get bigger as you put things together. Now, if you were going custom, that's a whole different ball of wax. You could find different axles and fab stuff up(if you have those skills) to save money. I think there is a SAS's r51 out there somewhere, but your going to have to dig to find it. A lot of people try something this ambitious at tie s and then give up on it. Then the rig sits for years and eventually is given up on, sold or sent to the scrap yard. This is just my 2 cents. Maybe someone else will ring in with another opinion.

Good luck and stay safe!

It should plug right into your headlight plug then connect to the battery. If it's like mine, it will only use one headlamp connector. This is the harness I used, sorry I don't have a better one at the moment,

Spray some penetrant(pb blaster, ect) on it, let it sit for a few then try and twist it back and fourth a little. That should get the penetrant passed the o-ring. Then a small screwdriver under it to pry it up.

If the spark plugs are that wet, they won't fire. It's called being fuel soaked. Cheap plugs will do that. NGK plugs are your best bet. You don't need to clear codes to start, but if you have a issue, you don't wanna chase the wrong thing. Replacing the distributor is as simple as setting the engine to TDC, remove the cap and make sure the rotor is pointing just before #1 on the cap. Disconnect the connector and pull the one bolt holding it in. It helps to make a mark with a high visibility where the rotor points so you can transfer it to the new distributor. After its unbolted, wiggle it straight up. Installation is the exact opposite.

Sounds like some are pointing you int the right direction already. If you are concerned about grounding the spark plug during a test, go you your local parts store and purchase a in-line spark tester. They are fairly cheap and you will know if you have spark or not. You are going to need a bolt in that crank position sensor. Once you have a new sensor and bolt, reconnect everything, clear codes and try and start. If it doesn't start, you need to check codes again. Have you pulled spark plugs and see if they are wet? They may be wet if you've sprayed too much starting fluid in. Pull them all if they are wet and let them dry, or replace them(what brand are they?).

Your mechanic couldn't do a power balance test? If one is going bad, you should have a misfire. I assume he pulled a code? That would be a great piece of information to have here. Three of the injectors are easy to get to on the passenger side. You can test them with a ohm meter and check the amount of resistance they have. Usually they have between 12-15 ohms if resistance. If any of them test higher or lower, then you found the issue. The other three are under the intake plenum, but can be tested at the fuel injector harness connector on top of the right valve cover. I recommend going into the Garage section and finding the link to download the factory service manual, then finding the injector test in the FE-FC section.

You didn't run the cable near any electrical devices did you? Did you ground the bracket your antenna is attached to?

I would stick to near factory pressure. Your change in tire didnt really change a whole lot. I would try 30psi and see how it drives and how the tires "squat". You can try varying the tire pressure over a couple of tanks of gas to see what works best.

What load rating is the tire? Just cause you changed the tires doesn't mean you changed the weight if the vehicle. I run 33's, that are load rating C, and set them at 30psi to give me a good tread pattern and doesn't feel squirrelly.

What kind of clutch did you put in? Sometimes the pushrod at the clutch pedal may need adjusted to apply the correct pressure. I had to do this with my Z after I put in a ACT clutch. It's pretty easy to do, just back off the lock nut and spin out the rod. You shouldn't of got air in the line if you didn't open the system.

Our very own SteeevO of Rugged Rocks was on the Nissan Nation podcast!!! http://www.nissannationpodcast.com/Nissan_Nation_Podcast/Show.html Scroll down till you see episode 014 If you read this SteeevO, thanks for the NPORA shout!

Could be. That's why we need more info about his rig. I would totally use my internet teleportation app and go look at it myself, but it needs a update. My iPad crashes every time I try to jump into it.

Maybe it's just me, but I didn't see anything on that website about how to increase power in a VG. To the OP, I recommend searching the 3.3 swap or if you like some good reading, try this.... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/28728-project-pathfinder/ A member here bought this rig not to long ago and is active, I just can't remember what the screen name is at the moment. Loss of power can be from many things. You may want to state the year of your rig, how many miles you have, what mods have been done and what kind of maintenance has been performed. Several members have woke their rigs up with a simple tune up and decarboning. From there you need to help it breath(intake and exhaust). Maybe I went a bit far with what you were asking for, but hopefully I gave some useful information!

The reason for the spare is that the car has been sitting nearly a year. Both front tires are bald, but the right front sidewall was torn. Like most spares, it was brand new. I needed to move the car, so the spare went on. I like the SE-R wheels, but the right front is also bent. I got my eyes on a set of nismo wheels on a wrecked unit down near Portland. The car has bigger issues like needing a transmission and a door. Add all the other small things that need to be addressed because it belonged to a 16 year old kid, I'm not worried about different wheels at this point. Ok, back on topic, this is a what you did to your pathfinder thread. Maybe there should a Other vehicles thread.....

1995 SE-R, 5 speed. Got it for $300. Needs some work which I'm trying to figure out how far I wanna go with it.

Drove my recently purchased 200sx passed him at work. Then after work he revved really high to show his dominance.

Kitty liter and a chunk of 2x4 or 6. Put the kitty litter down and let it soak in for a few. Then put the piece of wood down and stand on top. Twist side to side, grinding the kitty litter down, crushing it. Work your way along then sweep it up. I've done it many time including in my own garage.

Removed the sunroof glass completely and reattached the seal around it with weatherstrip adhesive. Should hold for a while.