5523Pathfinder

The bushings at the hinge are most like shot. If you open the carrier all the way and look at the inside of the hinge pivot, you should see a hole. You can try and pump grease into it and see if it helps, but a rebuild is most likely needed.

I have a feeling your using Tapatalk. If you see error messages or things didn't seem to work, just ignore it. Tapatalk is not that great. I recommend just using your normal browser. This will keep duplicate threads being made of the same thing.

I'd mix the names of the parts you use. In your case, wait for it, Hardfinder! Sounds better than Pathbody I guess!

Double check for rust in the front strut towers as there is a recall but some are bad. Your smoke may just be the valve cover gasket leaking due to the screws being loose.

What kinda nf of spark plugs do you have in it?

Simplicity- rebuild or swap in a new vg30 Little extra work- vg33 swap No lifted IFS lifted vehicle is perfect, they all need upgrades. You you do it right, you can have a great rig. Don't rely on quick and cheap options. You can body lift, you can suspension lift. 3+3+33's has been the formula for a long time, but depending on your needs, you may need one or all. Figure out exactly what you wanna do with your rig first.

There are several possibilities. First of all, you did replace some steering stuff, but you should probably check it all again. Worn center links will take your alignment out pretty fast. With negative camber, I would check and make sure your shims on the upper control arms are still there. I would check to see what kind of warranty your alignment came with and maybe have it redone. Next, did you put new shocks on at all? It's possible the tire may be "bouncing" causing the tires to cup. If you cranked the t-bars as high as they can go, you might want to bring them down a touch. This would also explain the negative camber look. Have you considered some steering upgrades? I would recommend a idler arm brace and steering stabilizer at the minimum, especially if you wheel. Oh, do you have a printout from your previous alignment? If you do, take a pic of it and share. That would help to see what's what.

How's your oil level?

Have you checked this thread out... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/19755-fix-your-keyless-entry/

That's the drain plug for your manual transmission. It's leaking due to either being loose or no sealer on the threads after it was last serviced. Has the fluid been changed recently?

Well, that's a bummer! You gotta do what you gotta do. No worries man, the Xterra is really just a wd21 that had plastic surgery!

NGK.

Red key light isn't on is it? May be a NATS problem.

Just for fun, and it will set a code, unplug your air flow meter and try and start it. Oh, pull a spark plug and see what brand and condition they are. There is a slight chance you have a clogged catalyst, just want to rule other things out first. The dealer bought it from wont help you bring it happened right off the lot?

Get a code reader and see if there are any codes. I'm wondering if a certain bulb has been pulled.

Well, it was worth a try. It's never easy to diagnose something over the Internet! Just out of curiosity, how is your oil level? There is no check engine/service engine soon light on? How many miles does it have?

Sounds like the thottle pedal may need to be reset. Park your rig and cycle the key from run(not start) then off. Stop for 10 seconds in run then off for 10 seconds. Repeat this 10 times ending in the run position. Try and start it and and see what happens. You may also want to make sure you don't have air leaks passed the air flow meter and double checking to make sure the air flow meter doesn't have anything on it would also be a good idea.

i was on the Nissan Nation Podcast last week talking Nissans! Episode 028

thepezzy is something special and you know it! Happy Birthday thepezzy!

So, do you know something we don't? Or are you just appreciating the thread?

I'm on my second set of tires since I lifted it. Steering component issues caused more wear. I don't worry about the locker doing that. Driving around on dry pavement will get you used to how it operates and not be phased by a pop or clunk. You will find the advantage off-road almost immediately. You are welcome to watch some of my vids on YouTube. Just follow the link I'm my signature below. My first vid "wheelin big homie" showers me go up a trail, then a jeep follows me. It's a great example of the locker working.

Which kit did you get? http://www.superlift.com/lift-kits-leveling-kits/nissan

I've been wheeling my rig with a Lock-right for almost 10 years now. It has never caused me to slide into a tree. It does try to push you forward under acceleration. In deep snow it can be tricky, but manageable. Clicks/ratchets when you go around corners but can bind and "pop" once in a while. I've seen many limited slips not keep traction. I love my locker and recommend it to many!

Holy carp! The other side is the same way? I seem to remember someone else having this same problem and they found out the control arms are specific to which side of the vehicle they are supposed to be on(left or right). That is really extreme. How does the rest of your suspension and steering components look?

Give this a read as well.... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17038-how-to-re-index-your-torsion-bars/