5523Pathfinder

Sounds like the fan clutch!

Thermostat stuck? Has it been changed at all? One radiator hose would be ridiculously hot and the other very cool. Fan clutch not operating correctly? It would sound like a semi when the engine revs. Clogged radiator? External or internal is a possibility. Water pump? When was it last changed? What's the ambient temp been like down there?

Yep. Can't really worry about changing out the fan right now. Seemed like a good solution. Added it before I left work tonight and noticed a drop in temps. I had the a/c on too. The gauge was reading about 3/4 before and after read just over half. Tomorrow and Saturday will be the big test.

Added Water Wetter to the cooling system as these high temps are taxing my e-fan. So far so good!

Hit 245k today(I'm sure with 33's, it's more!)

I did a write up when I did mine.... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/28120-how-to-front-brakes-and-cv-axles/ There is another in the garage section

First gen xterra kit would work. Just need to place the button on the glass and install the mirror with some minor wiring. I think I have a kit laying around with a distorted mirro. I'm just not sure on the homelink part.

Being that you didn't state how many miles you have on your rig, it's possible you may need rotors due to age. Your rig may have had a brake job or two done before. The shop should be able to take a measurement of the thickness of the rotor and compare to repair limits. At the least, they should machine them, you just don't want them too thin. Ask for some specs to be recorded. It's possible the slides on the caliper are gummed up. Good techs will pull them apart quick and lube them up. Ask to see what the tech did before he puts the wheels back on.

Take the kickpanels off an you should see the grounds near the pinchweld towards the door.

Looking at a 94's electrical diagram(nico's didn't list a electrical section for a 93). It seems most of those circuits only share a few things- ignition switch, the fuse block(under dash) and a ground point. That ground is 232M and is located behind the right kickpanel. It should be held on with a 10mm violet or a Phillips screw(pan head?). You can see the ground in the manual on page EL-82? Its possible it's loose or just needs to be tightened. That's where I'm leaning. But the ignition switch runs a close second as when you turn the key, it supplies power to certain things in the fuse panel. Is possible it lost some connection due to your keys jingling around(do you have lots of keys hanging?). Of course catching it when it happens is going to be the tricky part. Also check the ground bolt/screw on the drivers side in the kickpanel(202M).

Make sure your condenser in front of the radiator isn't blocked up with mud, dirt, debris and such. Tonight I just washed a bunch of mud out of mine.

Removing the radiator is pretty straight forward. Do you have a Performance Radiator near you? https://performanceradiator.com I've used many of them and all have been good. Exact match to factory. Unfortunately, there are not many aftermarket options unless you go custom.

Lookin good Jim!

Ok, so you don't have power at the A/T control unit correct? Check the fuse in the wiring diagram on page AT-36 & 37. Make sure you have power to the fuse as well. If your fuse is ok and power is going through them, then it's time to check continuity of the wire.

Follow symptom diagnosis on page AT-39 and let me know what happens.. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/at.pdf

Well, you can drop the pan to change the fluid, but you won't get all of it. Having it flushed is the best way to get 99% of the fluid changed. What color is the fluid now? How does it smell? If you have wiring issues, maybe you killed power to the a/T control unit. I will look at the manual.

The factory orange RTV only takes about 15 minutes to get tacky. IIRC, its 1/2 cured in a hour and will be fine to add oil to and drive the same day. Yes, just make sure the pand is clean and the flange isnt bent during removal.

Very common. Due to age, replace the master and slave at the same time.

What brand of spark plug did you install?

Tranny cooler issues were on the 05-06 models. A lot have been fixed. Timing chains have been hit and miss. There is a warranty extension on them. If the engine sounds like it's supercharged, the tensioners are toast. Expensive, but once done, there done(unlike your subies headgaskets, which will fail again). Xterras have a solid axle in the rear, pathfinders have independent rear suspension. Pathfinders have 3 row seating, Xterras only have two. Pathfinders have a optional V8 engine! If you want more specifics, just ask!

Ya know what? I have seen many times a no start condition can by caused by the ignition switch. Basicly as it wears, the connection is lost when turning the key to start. You know its bady by turning that key a touch more and it starts. Next time it doesnt start, try turning it just a bit further.

Fuses are easily checked by pulling them out and inspecting the small metal wire to burns or breaks. If there are, it means there was a short circuit and the fuse popped to prevent damage. Be sure to pull one at a time and not get them mixed up.

FSM- factory service manual You might try and relearn the throttle sensor. It's easily done by sitting in the drivers seat with the doors closed. Keep your feet off the pedals and cycle the key to the on position(do not start) and leave it for 10 seconds. The turn the key off for 10 seconds. Repeat this 20 times then start and let idle for 10 minutes to get to operating temp. Then try and drive it to see if it helped.

Starter bound up? Give it a tap with something hard while someone tries to start it.

Every Nissan dealer has a master kit. See if they can match it up and purchase a replacement or have them removed. I loath wheel locks.