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5523Pathfinder

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Everything posted by 5523Pathfinder

  1. No, I mean ignition timing, as in a timing light attached to #1 plug wire and adjust the distributor(15 degrees iirc).
  2. Have you checked timing? If it's not set right, you would lack power.
  3. If you haven't heard, the 05-06 pathfinders have a warranty extension on the radiator because some will crack and leak into the transmission cooler. This in turn will pump coolant into your transmission and burn it up! You would need to replace both the transmission and radiator, which can be very expensive. So, what if you bought one that didn't get the radiator replaced? You are gonna bypass it! For free! Now, I'm not sure all of the pathfinders came with them, but there is a auxiliary transmission cooler in from of the radiator, just behind the grille. You can check if you have one by opening the hood and inspecting for one, just on the passenger side. It should look something like this... If you do have it, remove the front lower bumper trim and the front splash shield. After those are removed, you should see something like this... So, what you are going to do is remove the long cooler hose that runs from the hard lines to the left side of the radiator. Which is the upper hose in this picture.. Just squeeze the clamp and pull it forward and remove the hose(you can see I already have the clamp slid forward). Next you are going to remove the other hose from the cooler and install the long hose back onto the cooler, so it's basicly looped... Then pull the second hose loose from the plastic fan shroud and reroute to the cooler hard lines. This picture is looking straight up and you can see where it's connected to the shroud.. And how it looks connected to the hard line.. That's it. Only a few hand tools needed and will keep the transmission from burning up. There may be a slight loss of fluid, but if you do it quick, it won't be a big deal. I have driven several rigs like this and could not tell a difference in shift quality at all. At more extreme temps, that could change. Our frozen friends to the north in Canada may need the fluid to warm up some in the winter, so you may have to block it off or replace that radiator. Hotter climates may want to look into a larger cooler. Hope this helps someone!
  4. Even better...... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/5948-the-unofficial-tire-review-thread/?hl=+tire%20+reviews
  5. Holy carp! How tight did you tension that belt?
  6. Scratches and dents are battle scars! Like I've said before, Chicks dig scars!
  7. Well, the light won't go out immediately. You need to clear the code or drive it around a bunch. OBD2 will clear itself if it runs two consecutive test cycles without any failure. Hopefully you didn't replace the wrong sensor.
  8. Left handed drill bits work the best. First use a bit slightly larger than the stud to remove the material that the burr on the broken stud want to dig into. This will make a nice "face" on the broken stud and will center your next drill bit. As it digs in, it should pull the broken piece with it.
  9. http://www.grassroots4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1 I has one. Freaking awesome! 0 steering issues now.
  10. 205. Lots of options to customize, very strong. Seen several 231's have issues in several jeeps(and a few hd versions in the ram). Just my 2 cents.
  11. Exactly which "mount" are you talking about? Where it attaches to the frame or lower control arm(front suspension)? At the axle or frame sides(rear)? A picture would help tons!
  12. I prefer the NGK V power plugs myself. I've installed hundreds of them and he hold up well. Heck, when the V is gone, time for new plugs! They should last for more than the 30k service interval.
  13. Spent the day replacing rear brake shoes, machined the drums, replaced tension rod bushings, front brake pads and rotors. Upon removing the left front warm hub, I found 3 broken bolts! Drilled and extracted them and installed new bolts altogether. Cleaned and repacked the bearings of course. Installed new low profile upper bump stops and new front sway bar links. I will put pics of everything I'm my member thread soon.
  14. As a professional, I have seen too many Nissans belch blue smoke from being flooded. Your mostly right with the colors, but not always.
  15. What kind of spark plugs do you have in it? How many miles on your rig? Sounds like fuel is not being burned off and could soaking the cylinders. Next time this happens, put it in clear flood mode by putting the gas pedal to the floor and crank it over. Do not let off until the engine revs up. I assume it's a 3.5l, so plugs need to be changed at 105k. Be sure to put in NGK plugs!
  16. I have a new set of Bosch Quietcast rotors on order right now. I have used several "white box" rotors and had poor luck. I used the Bosch rotors on a friends subaru who's rotors kept warping, and as of right now they are doing great. As I preceded to install them, I noticed that they feel much more robust. I was impressed enough to order some up. Hopefully they will be going on this weekend. I don't see the need for dimple and/or slotted rotors. Our rigs ain't exactly sports cars!
  17. As I agree with the above, I will state that you will also have a decrease in overall performance by deleting the cats. Without programming or a way to manipulate the air/fuel and o2 sensors, you will have less power, mileage and overall driveability. There are aftermarket options available(magnaflow) to help keep costs down over factory units.
  18. Nope, you have to get one from a 94-95 with a rounded dash. You can always search for a speedo repair shop in your area. Though, they are a few and far between. Sounds like you may have a air low meter acting up. There is a how to in the garage section on how to clean it. It's helped many members.
  19. When did you have a set of KM2's? And on what rig?
  20. Looks like someone forgot to put the bottom bolt back onto the bottom of the timing cover. It's the one without the black rubber washer on it.
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