5523Pathfinder

Now to put it back together. Set the cooler back in place and put the bolt through it and tighten it by hand. Then, grab a torque wrench and tighten it to 36 foot pounds... Install your new oil filter and clean the area with brake clean(or equivalent) and rags as needed.. You can now install your splash shields and a drain your oil. Start it up after filling with new oil and double check to make sure you have no other leaks! Hope this helps someone out there!

Ok, as they title states, we are going to take care of a very common oil leak on 4.0l and 3.5l engines. This is a fairly easy repair and with some basic tools, should only take about a hour or so. I recommend ding this when you need to change your oil, as you can take out two birds with one stone. Parts needed- Oil Cooler o-ring and oil filter(new oil as well). I am using a 06 pathfinder with the off-road package as our patient. Here is our oil leak that just won't go away... First, gather some tools... This includes at 22mm socket, ratchet, torque wrench, 10mm socket and ratchet(or electric gun as I have shown), oil filter wrench(or whatever you use to remove the filter with),some rags, brake clean(or equivalent) and a flashlight to help you see. A catch pan is also a good idea as well as a small pick or flat screwdriver. First, removed the lower part of the front facia. Remove 5 10mm bolts and pull down and set aside. Next, remove the 10mm bolts holding the splash shield in place.. (quick tip- you don't have to remove the two rear bolts all the way, just loosen and slide the shield forward, then drop it down. This will also help hold it in place when you put it back in) You can also remove the oil pan skid if you want... (You will need a 12mm socket to remove those bolts). I left it in and just cleaned the oil up afterwards. You could stuff a few rags up there to catch the oil also. Remove your oil filter. Oil will drain down and your going to want to catch it or it will make a nice mess. Grab your ratchet and 22mm socket and remove the through-bolt hold the oil cooler in place.. I have a small extension on my socket to get a better angle. Now that the bolt is removed, twist the cooler toward you and remove the orange o-ring that is leaking. Here is what it looks like... Grab your new oil cooler o-ring and press it into the cooler with your fingers, making sure it's flat and not sticking out..

I think your guy doesn't value his time very much. Then again, maybe things are cheaper down there.

Sheesh! $350! I have gotten mine done here at the dealership, by a company that comes in, for about $175. You might wanna shop around.

My brother had a mangaflow installed on his 99 QX4 some years back. He doesn't have it anymore, but here is what is sounded like right after having it installed.. It was never overly loud or annoying. (Sorry, it's a old video. May have been shot with a potato)

Pulling a transmission by yourself, Im guessing for the first time, is defiantly going to be a full weekend job. The flywheel would need to be inspected and machined or replaced if needed. B is right, there are not torsion bars hanging in the way, but getting all the bell housing bolts will be your biggest hurdle. That and having a steady jack or several friends to bring the transmission and transfer case down, then back up(she's a big heavy girl). You can alway try and negotiate the price down if you have been there before, or need other things done.

We just had a 2012 Sorento traded in and it still had the msrp sticker in the glovebox. $42k for that pile!

Here is info from alldata... 1997 Nissan-Datsun Truck Pathfinder SE 4WD V6-3.3L (VG33E) Vehicle » Transmission and Drivetrain » Clutch » Clutch Disc » Parts Information Parts Information OEM Part # Price Clutch Disc Disc 301000W024 $138.00 Labor Information Skill Level Mfg. Warranty Standard Clutch Disc Replace Includes: R&I Transmission. B 7.0 10.2 Note To R&R Flywheel, Add B 0.0 0.2 So 10.5hrs x $100(guessing average) is just above $1000 Save for a few thing breaking, that's pretty ballpark. If this is at a shop, the tech only makes around $300 of that. Be nice and bring him a pizza or some beer as a thanks!

I have had both. The original KM's are getting hard to find as they are moving over to the 2's. I really didn't want to change my tires, but I had such good luck with them. I dove in and got the KM2's and was pleasantly surprised! They are quieter than the originals and tear it up off road. I have almost 40,000 miles on them now with no weird wear or issues.

Here, check this out.... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/20030-newbie-cb-radios/

You've never heard of the inhibitor relay? Sits next to the battery. Very common with a no crank issue. Give it a smack while someone else holds the key in the crank position(make sure it's out of gear first). If she starts, you got a bad relay.

It's Nissans parts lookup system. It's not readily available to everyone, but some seem to have gotten their hands on a copy

Lookin good man! I like the Q at that height! Wish my bro would of done that with his 99 when he still had it. He is still kicking himself for trading it in.

The tach may of had enough. It's a small potentiometer inside and eventually it wears out. Some speedo calibration shops can fix them. But it's not cheap. Well, cheaper than a new one anyway.

I replaced my steering with the Grassroots centerlink and moog tie rod ends. I wanted moog cause they had grease holes zerks could be put in. I actually measured them and yes, they are larger than stock. I have wheeled my rig as well as up and down I-5 with no problems. Even for a daily driver, the grassroots centerlink with help keep your steering tight and alignment correct for a long time. You ain't to far from me if you wanna come check it out sometime.

If you have a decent amount of drill bits, I used to use a larger drill bit to drill the face of the broken stud and knock a small amount of of the aluminum out of the way. This deburs the area and centers for a smaller drill bit. Drill, tap and remove.

Some have... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/28224-andrews-2001-le-35-build/page-6

It engages LUDICROUS SPEED!! Seriously, he's right.

Definitely sounds/looks like a ground problem. Check your grounds from the engine to the body. You know, the ones on the exhaust manifolds that are always coming off or people don't put back on. Make sure the ground at the battery is clean and see if the cable is still attached to the body as well.

As stated, to get all four wheels spinning, you will need lockers or limited slip in each of your differentials. A lot of guys, including myself, run a rear locker(mechanical) and manual locking hubs. This actually gives you three wheels locked. Locking the front differential can make it difficult to turn, so a selectable locker is best. But I will say, driver experience is a big key. Working the truck back and fourth to get unstuck, turning your wheel left and right to work for traction are all basic techniques to help get out. Sometimes, a good tire will help a ton. Getting stuck isn't a bad thing. You just need to learn from it. As for a winch, well, there is a lot to go with it, and it can get spendy. Having a hi-lift jack and be used as a winch, just takes longer. Sounds like you need to figure out what kind of wheelin you wanna do on a regular basis. I've seen fully built rigs get stuck.

Most of those problems were in the early 05-06 models for the most part. Most issues ought to be pretty small.

It's cool, I appreciate it. When I had my hardbody, I was going to do the swap, but I like the pathfinder front end on the pathfinder. Again, thanks for the input!

Please, don't take this the wrong way, but it will not be doing the hardbody swap. It just don't appeal to me. I drive a pathfinder, not a pickup. Being that I wheel my rig, I am more concerned about quality and durability. If I want more light, I will add more light. So the plastic units some used were the Anzo units?

Ok, so here's he deal, after 1347564775873465 times up Nadine down I-5, multiple wheelin adventures and age, my headlamp housings have just about had it. Now, I was going to look into the euro housings, but they are spendy and I don't know what they look like installed. Then again, other than factory, I don't know what any other housings look like installed. Other than a factory replacement, I ran across these.. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ANZ0/111050/03970.oap?year=1995&make=Nissan&model=Pathfinder&vi=1212006&ck=Search_03970_1212006_4358&pt=03970&ppt=C0028 And was wondering if anyone has installed them? I ain't going to buy some cheap eBay crap, nor am I going to spend a ton on a lamp that can get trashed offroad. I would love to see what get look like in the day and night, lights on or off. So if you have any aftermarket housings or the euro housings, can ya show me and tell me how it's working for you?