5523Pathfinder

Might want to run down to the local parts store and get a block tester. It will tell you if the head gasket is popped. Might be worth pulling the plugs and inspecting each for fouling to find what cylinder has the issue. Yes, change the oil before you run it anymore.

As I agree with the above, I will state that you will also have a decrease in overall performance by deleting the cats. Without programming or a way to manipulate the air/fuel and o2 sensors, you will have less power, mileage and overall driveability. There are aftermarket options available(magnaflow) to help keep costs down over factory units.

I ain't gonna lie. I voted for you the first time, but not the second! I liked the original pic better. Congrats on the win!

That's what I was getting at!

Nope, you have to get one from a 94-95 with a rounded dash. You can always search for a speedo repair shop in your area. Though, they are a few and far between. Sounds like you may have a air low meter acting up. There is a how to in the garage section on how to clean it. It's helped many members.

When did you have a set of KM2's? And on what rig?

Looks like someone forgot to put the bottom bolt back onto the bottom of the timing cover. It's the one without the black rubber washer on it.

Now to put it back together. Set the cooler back in place and put the bolt through it and tighten it by hand. Then, grab a torque wrench and tighten it to 36 foot pounds... Install your new oil filter and clean the area with brake clean(or equivalent) and rags as needed.. You can now install your splash shields and a drain your oil. Start it up after filling with new oil and double check to make sure you have no other leaks! Hope this helps someone out there!

Ok, as they title states, we are going to take care of a very common oil leak on 4.0l and 3.5l engines. This is a fairly easy repair and with some basic tools, should only take about a hour or so. I recommend ding this when you need to change your oil, as you can take out two birds with one stone. Parts needed- Oil Cooler o-ring and oil filter(new oil as well). I am using a 06 pathfinder with the off-road package as our patient. Here is our oil leak that just won't go away... First, gather some tools... This includes at 22mm socket, ratchet, torque wrench, 10mm socket and ratchet(or electric gun as I have shown), oil filter wrench(or whatever you use to remove the filter with),some rags, brake clean(or equivalent) and a flashlight to help you see. A catch pan is also a good idea as well as a small pick or flat screwdriver. First, removed the lower part of the front facia. Remove 5 10mm bolts and pull down and set aside. Next, remove the 10mm bolts holding the splash shield in place.. (quick tip- you don't have to remove the two rear bolts all the way, just loosen and slide the shield forward, then drop it down. This will also help hold it in place when you put it back in) You can also remove the oil pan skid if you want... (You will need a 12mm socket to remove those bolts). I left it in and just cleaned the oil up afterwards. You could stuff a few rags up there to catch the oil also. Remove your oil filter. Oil will drain down and your going to want to catch it or it will make a nice mess. Grab your ratchet and 22mm socket and remove the through-bolt hold the oil cooler in place.. I have a small extension on my socket to get a better angle. Now that the bolt is removed, twist the cooler toward you and remove the orange o-ring that is leaking. Here is what it looks like... Grab your new oil cooler o-ring and press it into the cooler with your fingers, making sure it's flat and not sticking out..

I think your guy doesn't value his time very much. Then again, maybe things are cheaper down there.

I was big into the Huskies(WA) when I was a kid, but not so much anymore. I usually catch highlights or some of a game if it's on. I'm curious how coach Peterson will work out. I was excited for coach Sark, but he ended up being basically a .500 guy. I'm more ready for pro baseball to start! Go Mariners!

Sheesh! $350! I have gotten mine done here at the dealership, by a company that comes in, for about $175. You might wanna shop around.

My brother had a mangaflow installed on his 99 QX4 some years back. He doesn't have it anymore, but here is what is sounded like right after having it installed.. It was never overly loud or annoying. (Sorry, it's a old video. May have been shot with a potato)

Welcome! I'm just a bit further south. If you ever go into Tacoma Nissan, let me know. I know half the people who work in the service and parts department!

Pulling a transmission by yourself, Im guessing for the first time, is defiantly going to be a full weekend job. The flywheel would need to be inspected and machined or replaced if needed. B is right, there are not torsion bars hanging in the way, but getting all the bell housing bolts will be your biggest hurdle. That and having a steady jack or several friends to bring the transmission and transfer case down, then back up(she's a big heavy girl). You can alway try and negotiate the price down if you have been there before, or need other things done.

We just had a 2012 Sorento traded in and it still had the msrp sticker in the glovebox. $42k for that pile!

Here is info from alldata... 1997 Nissan-Datsun Truck Pathfinder SE 4WD V6-3.3L (VG33E) Vehicle » Transmission and Drivetrain » Clutch » Clutch Disc » Parts Information Parts Information OEM Part # Price Clutch Disc Disc 301000W024 $138.00 Labor Information Skill Level Mfg. Warranty Standard Clutch Disc Replace Includes: R&I Transmission. B 7.0 10.2 Note To R&R Flywheel, Add B 0.0 0.2 So 10.5hrs x $100(guessing average) is just above $1000 Save for a few thing breaking, that's pretty ballpark. If this is at a shop, the tech only makes around $300 of that. Be nice and bring him a pizza or some beer as a thanks!

In best GB II impersonation.... "derussianification". If that makes more sence.

I have had both. The original KM's are getting hard to find as they are moving over to the 2's. I really didn't want to change my tires, but I had such good luck with them. I dove in and got the KM2's and was pleasantly surprised! They are quieter than the originals and tear it up off road. I have almost 40,000 miles on them now with no weird wear or issues.

Here, check this out.... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/20030-newbie-cb-radios/

You've never heard of the inhibitor relay? Sits next to the battery. Very common with a no crank issue. Give it a smack while someone else holds the key in the crank position(make sure it's out of gear first). If she starts, you got a bad relay.

Somebody was on the ball! You got my vote! Plus, I'm in the background of that picture!

It's Nissans parts lookup system. It's not readily available to everyone, but some seem to have gotten their hands on a copy

Lookin good man! I like the Q at that height! Wish my bro would of done that with his 99 when he still had it. He is still kicking himself for trading it in.