5523Pathfinder

First of all. Welcome! Hope this site helps you as it has so many others! As far as your question, it's a many times asked question. You need to figure out what exactly you want to do with your rig. Wheeling! Weekend warrior/camper? Mall crawler? I suggest browsing the R50 section for ideas and concerns. Be sure to check out the pinned topics as well as the members ride section at the bottom of the main page. Sorry for no specific response, but everyone has different opinions what's best.

I'd be down with a Sammy. I see more and more Vitaras getting the off road treatment. Kinda cool in my book. Most Sammy's here are either hammered or they want way too much for them.

Nissan like to call them the Torque Member. Some replacement calipers come with them.

Yes, it's the spiral cable. Don't spin it! I spun to many times, the cable will break. It's not hard to do. Disconnect the battery, removed the two plugs(if they are there) on the back of the steering wheel. They hold on the airbag mount bolts which may be a 10mm bolt, or a tamper proof torx bolt. Once you have both bolts removed lift the airbag out and disconnect the clips. Place the airbag away from you, outside the vehicle, with he bag pointed up. Then, remove the nut holding the steering wheel on. If you leave the nut on a thread or two, you can then pull the wheel back hand. Just rock it back and forth at the 9&3 positions. Remove the column covers and you will see the screws holding the spiral cable on.

Maybe, what may be happening is some corrosion in the connector causing some things to work, and others short or not work.. Joys of electrical repair. Gotta get in there and do some testing. It's possible you have a SECU failing. The only way to know for sure is to check your powers, grounds, inputs and outputs. Diagnosing over the 'net isn't exactly easy. Have patience.

I would check for power at connector E1/M1. Inspect the connector for any corrosion. All those things not working should lead to one thing causing the problem.

No offense, but when I was at O'Reillys the other day, there were 6 people working and only one person seemed to know what they were doing and actually helping people. Had at least 10 people waiting and they called another person from the back to assist customers. It was quite funny. Oh, and they consistently bring us the wrong parts.

Thank you everyone who voted!

Thank you everyone who voted!

Most everything but country. Mostly hip hop and classic rock. Yes, I have a 12in sub in my rig.

You can pull the motor with the manifolds still attached, just be careful not to catch them on anything. Remove your torque converter bolts and tun the crank a little to break loose the connection of rust. Remove the bell housing bolts that attach to the engine. Don't try to separate until you support the transmission with a stand or jack(use a block of wood). Jack the engine up slightly and pull towards the front of your rig. Take a quick look to make sure the torque converter stays in place. If it gets stuck to the flywheel and comes out with the engine, immediately fill it back up with some ATF and spin it in. It should drop 2 or three times and be about a inch passed the bellhousing.

Sorry, I should of added, no, you don't need to loosen the rockers at all. You don't need to touch the top of the engine, really.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/12828-how-to-change-your-timing-belt/

P1491 is a common code on the R50's. It's related to the emissions system, in the left rear if your truck. It's been covered many times around here. Either is clogged, or something is leaking. You I gotta go underneath and look for a 4 ported white valve. Inspect the lines going to it for leaks. You may need to pull it down and check for a clog. There is also a solenoid valve near it that could be sticking or leaking as well. Some R50's have problems with the charcoal canister coming apart and the charcoal beads will clog the lines and stop the system from working correctly. P0138- is for the left rear oxygen sensor, it's probably failed, and again, it's kinda common. There may be a TSB on it, but I can't look at the moment. Yes, it's possible it would affect fuel mileage. P0456- May be related to he first code. Again, gotta get underestimate there and look for leaks. You may need to take it to a shop and have the system smoke checked.

1. Obd II is 96 and newer.

When changing something as small as the door arm rest makes it feel like a whole new rig!

X2 on the wheel bearings. I've seen them loose and create plenty of shaking.

Are you talking about the left side? That's for the EGR tube. O2 is a bit further back

I just noticed, and it dawned on me, how did you adjust the valves? Hydraulic lifters don't need adjustment. Did you do it? A shop? And before or after your power issues?

No, I mean ignition timing, as in a timing light attached to #1 plug wire and adjust the distributor(15 degrees iirc).

Have you checked timing? If it's not set right, you would lack power.

Ordered my rear panhard bar drop bracket!

Check the interlock relay.. Obviously, you have no power to the starter?

If you haven't heard, the 05-06 pathfinders have a warranty extension on the radiator because some will crack and leak into the transmission cooler. This in turn will pump coolant into your transmission and burn it up! You would need to replace both the transmission and radiator, which can be very expensive. So, what if you bought one that didn't get the radiator replaced? You are gonna bypass it! For free! Now, I'm not sure all of the pathfinders came with them, but there is a auxiliary transmission cooler in from of the radiator, just behind the grille. You can check if you have one by opening the hood and inspecting for one, just on the passenger side. It should look something like this... If you do have it, remove the front lower bumper trim and the front splash shield. After those are removed, you should see something like this... So, what you are going to do is remove the long cooler hose that runs from the hard lines to the left side of the radiator. Which is the upper hose in this picture.. Just squeeze the clamp and pull it forward and remove the hose(you can see I already have the clamp slid forward). Next you are going to remove the other hose from the cooler and install the long hose back onto the cooler, so it's basicly looped... Then pull the second hose loose from the plastic fan shroud and reroute to the cooler hard lines. This picture is looking straight up and you can see where it's connected to the shroud.. And how it looks connected to the hard line.. That's it. Only a few hand tools needed and will keep the transmission from burning up. There may be a slight loss of fluid, but if you do it quick, it won't be a big deal. I have driven several rigs like this and could not tell a difference in shift quality at all. At more extreme temps, that could change. Our frozen friends to the north in Canada may need the fluid to warm up some in the winter, so you may have to block it off or replace that radiator. Hotter climates may want to look into a larger cooler. Hope this helps someone!