5523Pathfinder

Lets go with the most common issue with those rear ends and ask "Have you inspected the upper and lower control arm bushings that locate the rear end?" When these wear out, they can produce all kind of strange things to happen. Usually the worst is what feels like a loose rear end. A simple inspection light and large flat screwdriver/prybar can help you inspect them individually. Helps to let the rear end hang while you are inspecting it. As far as your noise, again, I would put jackstands under the axle so weight is applied. Try and reproduce the noise and inspect with said stethescope, or a long, thin screwdriver to your ear(the handle) and listen. The Carrier bearing may have issues. Yes, some movement is normal, but again, see if you can reproduce the noise and go from there.

If the heads can be rebuilt, contact your local machine shop and see what the turnaround time is for a complete rebuild for both heads. I have done some in the past and the machine shop at a 1 day turnaround. If you want heads, I would recommend going to a junk yard and pulling a set, have them rebuilt and have ready to install.

I think there is a Atlas transfer case adapter now available. Now I dont have one, but I believe the Atlas transfer is "clockable" so you could put the output on the passenger side to the front diff so you could use the toyota front axle. http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-pathfinder-wd21-r50-transfer-case-c-38_341.html

Glad it helped you! I, like many, try to be a productive memeber of this forum. Like my way of giving back!

Yeah, cause headers in general have never leaked. Ever.

Hmm, sounds like a Air flow meter. Try disconnecting it and letting it run in failsafe(it may throw another code). If it idles normally, then it might be time for a new unit. It could also be a vacuum leak. Make sure all hoses are plugged in(even the small ones that are on the back of the intake) and clamps are tight.

I reindex the front mount, seems a bit eaiser. Just dial down the torsion bar bolt so its as low as it will drop. Remove the front hangers and turn the bar down as far as it will go with the nuts still on the adjuster bolt. Hold the bar up and rotate the front hanger so it lines up with the lower control arm. Slide it in, bolt it back up and readjust. I did my rig and MrJims rig this way. Bada Bing, bada boom, your done.

Check that front end and make sure nothing is loose or out of whack. It could cause some of the height issues. It does look like someone at sometime had the torsion bars out(my guess is trans or rear main). Reindex them and you should be golden. Remember, our rigs came with a slight rake to them. After lifting my rig, I slowly put the front down a bit and the rake is back. Helps to not stress out the front end so much, and made aligning it a ton eaiser.

Looks good man! Now, its got to be the centerlink making the tires like that! Oh, and I remember living in Phoenix, make sure you invest in a trans cooler for that thing!

Did you look at the BPT valve? It has a vacuum line from it that goes to the EGR valve. Check the small rubber hose under it and make sure it is not cracked and leaking.

Im always interested to see what it looks like. Im not too worried about the cheapest or most expensive option either.

So, I know some have built a storage container in the rear of thier pathfinders, and thats great and all, but im not so handy with woodworking tools. I have pondering the idea of a small "tool" or "storage" box in the rear, possibly carried over from the UTV/ATV world. They have smaller options as thats what I am thinking about. I dont want something that will soak up the entire rear storage, but something to put straps, tools, ect in that I can lock and will be secure. So, if you have something, can you post a pic or a description of what you got. Thanks guys.

Our price is $219. But I work at a luxury dealer. It should be the cost of the chemical kit and 1 hour of labor, so your nearest dealer may charge less. IIRC, at my old dealer, it was $179. See if you can watch it being done so you keep the tech honest.

For those who want to do it themselves, you can use the intake cleaner in a aerosal can as in the link below... http://www.bgprod.com/products/aerosol.html (its about half way down) The smaller can works great for just cleaning your throttle body. Make sure you have pleanty of rags around to catch the runoff.

I used the first zip code I could find for Shelbyville, TN..... http://www.bgfindashop.com/locator/results_list.php?zip=37160&zipsearch=Go&showsurrounding=1&radius=25

Well of course in theory it will have not effects. What it does have a effect on is emissions. NOx gases need to be reduced, and there are ways besides a EGR system to reduce them. IF a guy has to go through a emission test to get tabbed or whatever, he/she may not pass. Plus, its not very good for the enviorment.

Some 94's and 95's didnt have EGR system altogether. It was strange seeing them when they came in. I think they were California rigs. So, I suppose it could be deleted if you were running the correct ecu so it wouldnt throw everything off.

The buildup in the valve cover and rockers is just oil that has broken down(sludge). Most of the time this is no big deal. Its really only a problem whne it builds up excessively. I have worked on a old hardbody that was not taken car of and the sludge was built up all around the rockers! Needles to say, it needed a rebuild. What you have is no big deal. If you clean any off, be sure none drops down the oiling passages as it could block up the oil pickup in the pan. ON the valve cover, you can clean it with any parts cleaner, or if you have a machine shop near, you can give it a solvent bath(hot tank).

Yep, just carbon buildup from the PCV system. VG's are well known for it. If it builds up, it can create a lack of power and worse, and misfire condition. Easy to clean up though. Carb clean will clean a large part of it up. I perform a Induction Service with a chemical(BG) and cleans that crap up. You can accomplish similar results by spraying in intake cleaner from any parts house(make sure its sensor safe, and you use it in a well ventilated area), from just behind the air flow meter(small vacuum hose). I did this not long ago and had a thread about it. I will see if I can find it... Here ya go.... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31832&st=0&p=600196entry600196 I took pics threw the throttle body, but same as what you have.

Its the intake for your Auto Climate Control. Behind it, there should be a hose attached.

Tap on the dimmer switch when this happens. If they light back, you need a dimmer.

There is a socket you can buy to remove and install the lock nut for the hubs. Some of us with dirt under our nails, just use a screwdriver and hammer to do the same. Other than that, no.

A/T Oil temp sensor lamp.

Sounds like it might be the brights indicator?

Clean and simple! I like it!