94pathfinder Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 im re setting my torsion bars after having them out, so i need to know what the ride height of the pathfinder with no lift is supposed to be at. please and thanks. from the bottom of the frame to the ground on a flat surface. Thank You John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ac92pathfinder Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 im not sure if you wanna mention if you have 235's or 31's. im pretty sure you got 31's by looking at your icon pic. i dont know if those would make a diffrence. i wish i can measure but everythings in storage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 Measure the rear tosay the bodyline (since the frame is different height front to rear) then set the front so it's level. That's what I'd personally do. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 tires will not matter if factory method is used. This method also allows for leveling left to right. A-B=H B = measure ground to bottom of stering stopper bracket on front side of LCA A = measure ground to center of LCA spindle bolt. H = your "ride height" for that side. on level ground H on left and right should be set the same Factory spec for H is 1.73-1.89 So basically if you want you pathy to sit stock ajust your T-bars on level ground untill H= 1.75 on both sides. WARNING! Increasing H by 1" will give you MORE THAN 1" lift. total lift should be measured as "New A" minus "OLD A" while using the same tires and level ground for each measurement. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 (edited) once set you may find that your stock springs have sagged rear can be measured as E-S= H E = measure ground to the center of the bolt on the stock sway-bar end S = measure ground to the center of the sway-bar anchor on the axle H = Your "ride height" +/- 0.375" of zero means you sitting stock. Negitve numbers beyond that Indicate ammount of coil sag. And yes in this case Positive numbers are a close indicator of total lift in the rear Edited March 7, 2010 by MY1PATH 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 this should be pinned. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 this should be pinned. At least MY1PATH's post. That is some awsome tech info there 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94pathfinder Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 thank you all of you so much for your help!! it drives again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daver123 Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 HAHA i adjust my ride height with my fist to measure the gap between the tire and fender, but those days are gone SAS time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 Haha holy crap Garret that's pretty detailed. Hell I've always measured from the ground to the lip of the fender flare and all four corners are at 31.75" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 Sorry for the dumb question, but what is the "sway bar"? The straight panhard rod behind the rear axle, or the bendy stabilizer bar in front? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XSrcing Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 Sway bar = stabilizer bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Sway bar = stabilizer bar Ok, thanks. So then the plane of the vaguely u-shaped stabilizer bar should be parallel to the plane of the ground if you are at stock height, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 your sway bar should be parallel with the axle no matter what height you are. What doesn't stay parallel is the panhard rod, it requires a drop bracket if lifted, and keeps the body square with the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 I'm just trying to figure out how to do my1path's measurement for rear lift to see what's going on with my rear springs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 your sway bar should be parallel with the axle no matter what height you are. What doesn't stay parallel is the panhard rod, it requires a drop bracket if lifted, and keeps the body square with the axle. I think What Sewebster means is front to back, the arm that reaches out to the link. when your righ is lifted that part of the swaybar sloped toward the axle because the link on the frame is higher off the ground. If you are sagging it will slope towards the link. Just measure the height of the link bolt from the ground and the center of the swaybar clamp(on the axle) from the ground its not that hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 Yeah, I think I got it figured out. Thanks. So I have about 1" of lift, as I expected (previous owner apparently installed some springs from a Ford pickup). Now, what I did to level things was crank up the t-bars until the frame in the middle of the truck was parallel to the ground. I'm not sure if that is good, or if the front is supposed to be lower. I should have done the official measurements, but now I guess I'd have to lower the t-bars to the stock height and then crank them up again to figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 They are supposed to be a little higher in the rear than the front. For handling reasons I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 Looks like by making the frame level to the ground I actually gave myself almost 3" of lift in the front! So I need to drop that down to match my 1" rear lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt94pathy4x4 Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 i freaking love this web site...thank you all! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 sorry all! Don't shoot me for being a lazy A$$ right now.....I have my 3" CALMINI lift on now. The front is 18 5/8" from the ground to the lower lip of the kickpanel...The rear is 1/2" lower. I like the taller look, so is there spacers I could put for the rear, or should I just lower the front, or is that 1/2" not gunna make that big of a difference? Maybe new shocks will even it out? Thanks for all your input! Pics to come... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 personally, I'd lower the front to match the rear. save some stress on your front axles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 No rear Coils yet? Its not often you get your fronts higher then the rears with a lift. Id lower the fronts to match the rear as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 If you cranked your torsions, give them time to settle as well. The front may drop itself a little bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 I think I'm gunna have to lower them. Here's my issue now.....Put new bushings in the UCA's & the passengers side went together just fine, but the driver's side spindle assembly isn't rolling up to connect the ball joint to the UCA. I notice the outer half shaft boot is split. Could've the half shaft slipped out of place? I MUST get this fixed by tonight. Please Help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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