beastpath

I have some AC Pathfinder 3" springs for sale

Those are the ones I was talking about (IDK why I thought they were made by ARB - probably because I have them attached to my ARB...). They work well though.

ARB Highlift mounts come in 2 sizes. Not sure if either will fit on the tire rack though.

A lot of this depends on what you consider to be an "expedition". Need a lot of gear to do a proper expedition for 2+ weeks with limited contact with civilization. Less so for a back-country adventure.

Yeah, except its hot, dusty, and sucks when you break down. No, the desert is fun. Ha, I keep dreaming of an adventure through the mountains! Maybe we should swap places for a couple of weeks, lol.

Its not argumentative at all, like you said, it depends on the kind of expedition. I personally think for the amount of "equipment" that most expedition vehicles carry, the Pathfinder is too small for long range. It doesn't mean it can't be done, but there will have to be trade offs. For example, many long range expedition vehicles (Defender 110 etc) stick a rooftop tent at the back of the roof rack, then have 4-6 jerry cans at the front. I just don't see that as possible on a Pathfinder, but think you could probably get away with having a few cans on the roof, OR a roof top tent. Having had heavy stuff on the roof with only a 3" suspension lift, I can tell you COG can be important. If you are smart about it you can get away with it though - but there are so many examples of people putting too much on the roof. You are right about the mileage, and maneuverability. And the tank is a little larger than other vehicles that I have driven too. One idea I have seen which I LOVE and want to implement is using a water cooler as a roof top washing machine. Stick all your dirty clothes in, some water and soap, then strap it on the roof rack while you drive. The movement cleans the clothes. Brilliant idea. Yeah, my dog just loves to take up the whole back - even when the seats are down - its like he inflates or something. lol

IMO its a bad idea to do a body lift on an expedition rig. Raises the center of gravity needlessly.

Ah, yeah you have more space between gas stations for lots of your stuff. I would be careful of how much weight you put on the rear swing out though - another option is to get a steel bumper/swingout that has fuel can mounts - spendy though. Check these out for water options - I'd love to get the front runner one personally (keeps the center of grav low, and takes up less space) Frontrunner 40L Footwell Tank Flexitank

This is my goal too, or rather, I am aiming to have a medium range expedition vehicle. To be honest we picked a bad vehicle for long range expeditions as the Pathfinder is so small. However, expedition pathfinders would be unique. I have picked up a lot of info from www.expeditionportal.com, and Overland Tech and Travel. I wish I had found that site long before I started modifying the truck, I could have saved money. Here are three good articles to get you started: Importance of Gross Vehicle Weight, Top 10 Overland Kit Items You Need, Designing an Overland Vehicle Now while I agree with a lot of the main points, and understand that its nice to have things that make a long vehicle based trip comfortable, I also realize that the pathfinder has limited space. Therefore, I think it is ridiculous to NEED a fridge, rooftop tent, full kitchen etc. Not only are these things expensive, but they are very heavy. I am more than happy to use basic cookware, and can manage with with dried foods, or use a small cooler for longer trips (if you freeze all the food before hand it removes the necessity of using ice), and I can sleep on the ground (i hardly ever use a tent anyway). Now maybe I would change my mind if I were going through Africa - but I somehow doubt that will ever happen in the Pathfinder. I am in the process of thinning out the gear I have in the truck to keep weight down, and make space for essentials (and my 120lb Mastiff who likes to get comfy). So far this is what I have decided to keep in the truck at all times: 1. Comprehensive 1st Aid Kit 2. Several Flashlights - preferably Surefire LEDs 3. Comprehensive but minimal tool kit (no duplicates) 4. On board air (I have the ARB high output which is not installed yet..) 5. Tire repair kit - This is what I picked: Ultimate Puncture Repair Kit 6. Fire Extinguisher 7. Survival kit - emergency blanket, waterproof matches, compass, pocket knife etc. (I want to expand this to a small bug out bag) 8. CB and Ham Radio (haven't picked up the Ham yet - Steevo from Rugged Rocks had one installed where the ash tray is - I want to copy that) 9. At least 3 self recovery options - shovel/axe, recovery strap, highlift, sand tracks, winch and associated shackles etc. 10. Camping gear - what do you REALLy need? 2 man tent, compact sleeping bags, toiletries, warm weather clothes, cold weather clothes, cooking gear, solar shower. I would say for most trips in the US you don't need extra fuel, but I would go for the rotopax or a Nato fuel can (Nato Cans are heavy when full - especially if they are on a roof rack - plus you can't distribute the weight like you can with a couple of rotopax).

OEM bushings from the dealer are about the same price as from anywhere else - roughly $20 a bushing.

WOW! Those have skyrocketed in price since the last time I looked at them! They used to be $175

I can afford it. I just don't know how much I want to take the engine apart again right now. I'll be interested to see a dyno with the JWT S1 cams.

Making me wish I had put the Euro-Cams in mine

To be honest I have no idea what the problem was. What I ended up doing was starting it in first a few times and it somehow broke loose the mechanism. Been working fine for about a year now.

Hi was...

Additionally you can also get complete links with the bushings already pressed in. Cost around $400 total, whereas bushings + pressing them in will run $200-$260.

4x4parts has split poly bushings for the rear control arms. The uppers and lowers are different sized I believe. They can be called link arms or control arms, depending on who you talk to. Apparently it is best to get rubber ones as the poly ones are really stiff and need to be replaced after 3-4 years, whereas the rubber ones last 15-20 years. Cost is about the same, although the rubber ones do need to be pressed in.

Awsome! I think I might do this this weekend too!

I have a leaking damper, so it self bleeds. I don't believe there is a write up on the delete - but I know someone has deleted it and posted some info on here. May have to search a bit.

Fixed the door locks, replaced the broken coolant res.

No bushings for the t-bars, your uca or lca bushings are probably what are squeeking over bumps. I need to do my tension rod bushings again - get the bearing races welded on there.

Pictures?

Bump

Doesn't wailing on it damage the steering box? He wants to keep the steering box for his calmini pitman.

Yeah, but for some of the stuff it might be worth it.