daver123

TIG, TIG, TIG... One day I will learn you. I don't feel too bad about the look of exhaust pipes under the truck as I find I smash them so frequently. I build my exhaust with removable sections in any of my vulnerable spots for easier replacement. Yea, skid plates, I know, I know... On the to do list. If it was stainless pipe on a street rod I'd be all over it.

Good reference material. I think I am definitely going to track down an Xterra pump, and get a cooler. Just need some money and time. Maybe next month... Do you know which year you got yours from and how many grooves on that serp pulley? The 4.3L is 6 groove. .

I would like to see those pics but photobucket is dead to me.

I was doing some parts research on rock auto and it would seem that the 04 and earlier Xterras use a very similar steering box to the first gen pathy's. The r50 uses rack and pinion, not sure how different the flow and pressure requirements are. That or just dig up a 95 pathy ps pump. just thought it would be better to try and rob a newer pump from a 04 xterra. Good thread on pirate4x4 though, I just think I trust the nissan pump more than trying to make a gm pump play nice with the stock steering box.

Fair enough. I'm looking at newer pumps than the stock 95 Pathfinder unit. I think the 2004 and older XTerras have a possible donor. They still use a similar PS box to the original Pathfinder ones and their PS pumps might be a good match, possibly new and improved too.

Power steering issues... So a GM Saginaw p-series pump is not happy about pushing 35s on a D44 via stock pathy PS box.The box seem solid and isn't complaining, but the pump has issues. Very hot and fluid shot out of the system somewhere haven't solved that one yet but after topping up the system no leak, but pump seems weak. I am digging like crazy trying to find specs on both the PS box and pump to figure out what my compatibility issue is. Far as I can tell its mixed reviews. Some Toyota guys say their steering works with a GM pump. Others say the GM has too much flow and heating issues. I could go remote reservoir and cooler on another new GM pump, but I never had issues with the pump on the vg30e. I'm leaning towards the latter. I'm now considering frankenstiening a nissan pump to a gm engine, MUAAHHAHA... Anyhow any ideas on which of our lovely jap built pumps are the most robust?

Did anyone find out what pressure the stock 94+ pumps put out? I am killing gm p-series pumps on my truck. The steering box seems to be up to the challenge of pushing around 35s on a SAS system. Would be great to know what the stock steering box needs out of the pump to not die.

Dimensions front 3 link with PH setup on my rig, measurements are on center from mounting bolts. Panhard length - 27.5" Upper link length - 37" Lower links length - 35.5" Lower links distance apart on axle - 38" Lower links distance apart on frame - 26.5" Upper link distance from Passenger side lower link on axle - 11" Upper link distance from Passenger side lower link on frame - 3" Upper link height from Passenger side lower link on axle - 7.5" Upper link height from Passenger side lower link on frame - 5" Drag link length - 40.5" Top of axle to bottom of frame directly above axle at rest - 14" Disclaimer here, this is not a perfected engineered setup so use these numbers at your own risk.

I have put all my photos of this project up on imgur now at this url http://panzer95.imgur.com/ so anyone who might be interested in any of my many modifications can browse the whole build.

Mine can run up to about 120 km/h (top speed due to gearing) without too much drama. I really need to rebuild the sway bars a little heavier and that should calm things down even further. It's not impossible to have reasonable road manners but you're right it will be a give and take for on road vs off-road performance. This is why all the sickest 4x4s are trailer rigs. I will try to gather some data this weekend on the setup. I have and try to translate it into something everyone will be able to decipher, as I'm sure others may want this info in the future as well. I had to revise the geometry a few times to get all the steering and clearances right. I need to get some new pics up, as I noticed that photobucket decided to be aggressively profitable and are now charging $400 per year for 3rd party image hosting. I think not.

I have spent more than I ever thought I would on mine, but I like doing it so I don't care. It's amazing how fast that total creeps up though lol. Nice build btw.

I can get some measurements but I have done a lot of modification to the frame and the fact that I have a non-stock motor in there as well means that the measurements that I get may not be terribly helpful in your setup. I'm unfamiliar with the terminology you are using to describe your current setup, I'm not sure what a military wrap is? Is that a leaf sprung setup?

I have never done a leaf setup for a SAS but from my experience with doing a 3 link setup I know there is a bit of a learning curve and it doesn't happen over night if you haven't done one before. I had to rework my setup more than once to get the geometry right.

Thanx, Progress is not as obvious anymore mostly just working out the bugs. My biggest bug is sorting out some computer programing issues. The last 2 noticable mods are on the way. I rebuilt the tire carrier its getting powder coated and then paint for the sides of the truck to cover up the body work. I did install a VHF radio as well.

I have been busy building my pathy with a '93 4.3L TBI engine swap and now that I have everything running it would appear that all is not well in the PCM and I need to tune it from what I can tell. Im trying to find a shop that can do this or I've got to try to sort this out myself and I'd rather not have to. Has anyone got any leads?

I need to do something like this for my Pathy. I had to gut the storage in my console to move the e-brake back to fit the engine swap I did. Also gutted the glove box to move the ecu's off the floor in case I ambitiously take on too much H2O.

2 years is not bad at all if you are driving everyday and doing little pieces at a time. I was just fortunate to not have any urgency to get it done and had bought a 4Runner for my daily driver and occasional off-road excursions. It really allowed me to do everything the way I wanted it.

It also isn't bad having a sightly wider stance when you lift the truck. Plus then you have an excuse to put on sweet fender flares. I put on wheel spacers to match the axle widths and bolt patterns front and rear.

Good to hear that your Pathy is still alive tmoore. Progress has been slow lately on mine. I had an electrical gremlin that had me confused for quite some time and I was just getting nowhere. The old money train also stopped for a while so that didn't help, plus asked the GF to marry me so the knife got twisted on this project a little more. I move the rig from my folks place to my new place so now I can pick away at it more frequently. I found out that my electrical gremlin was a faulty pickup coil and the codes were a VSS input issue. So now I have been sorting out the DOT issues to make it street legal. Flares and flaps are on it now. Welded in 1.5" strips of 2 gauge stainless steel to screw the plastic to. I got some advice on the street legal-ness of my rig from a local 4x4 shop, EBI Cruisers (specializes in Land Cruisers ,but nobody is perfect) and had them make a custom steering link. Got to test drive it on Sunday, put her through her paces. So far so good. couple of squeaks and rattles but nothing that cant be drowned out with the sound system . I was a little concerned about the temperature when it was working hard but apparently around 210F is normal for the 4.3L. More testing needed. Even with the deep gears I got on the highway and can keep up in the slow lane. Probably be drafting semis everywhere I go Still have plans to rework the tire carrier. I am using my old 4runner's tire carrier for donor parts.

My death wobble came from a severely worn out pan hard bushing in the rear end and elongated bolt holes on both bottom link frame mounts in the read as well. Cut off all of it and bulit a triagulated four link with Johnny Joints, cleared that death wobble right up.

Time really slips away from me these days. Anyhow been busy. Got more build pics finally. I have the old girl to the point of being mobile but not road ready. So this is what has been accomplished as of late. -Bumpers done sprayed with linex, with winch and lights installed. -SYE installed -Custom driveshafts installed -Rebuilt custom gauge cluster -Replumbed crossover pipe -Got 35" General AT2 tires -Speedo now works with the help of a dakota digital box -Hood scoop installed, non-functional, just for clearance -Interior painted with bedliner, and the interior is now complete. -Made changes to the transfer case shift linkage, work properly now Anyhow here are some pics and a video. Maiden Voyage http://vid45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/daver123/Forum%20pics/20140814_184836.mp4 What it looks like near an old kia sportage Still need to do some body work and put fender flares on. Also needs swaybars for which I'm currently building a highly experimental disconnect system. Still chasing a few engine issues, some sensor is unhappy or something.

You could just do a SAS, but I might be a little biased lol. Nice work. This problem was a contributing factor in my decision to SAS my rig. The whole front end was, as far as rubber components go, just haggard.

Yeah I got exhaust in but need drive shafts, of course custom so $$$. hopefully soon though.

Wow your sas is almost the same as mine. That's awesome work bud. Out of curiosity what kind of travel are you getting out of your setup? I will have about 13-14" when all said and done. I never bothered to clock my C's back like you did, with the engine and tranny swap in mine the front out put shaft of the t-case is far enough back that my drive shaft angles aren't bad. I have been working on leveling out the panhard and steering link to improve handling. Have you looked into getting a drop pitman?

Works great, the tach is perfectly smooth.