94pathfinder

honestly, when my ifs was still on i had the stock open, welded, and an ARB. save the money and get the ARB, trust me. you will love it, just don't drive stupid with it.

Personally, i would have him cut off the round tubing, and start from scratch, give him a picture of a toyota trail gear one, start with a stinger, bring two tubes off of the sides of it, one on each side, and have them be gussets. have him tuck the bumper closer into the body of the truck. the closer it is, the better off. ohh and no light guards, unless they are bent around the lights, and with about and inch or so of room in between the tubing and lights. and i would personally have him put in a type of blinker into the bumper, weather its a standard cheepo one from napa, or an LED one. But keep in mind, that if you use the LED one you will need a transformer box for them to work right.

Wanna be welder , homie im a professional welder it is what i do each and every day, i can weld circles around you and your welding. Don't pick a fight you can't win. And i was trying to let you know previously, that the 2x4 metal will not hold up. I hope you take this into consideration, and redo the cage. Like i said, you want a cage to last and hold up it has to be done out of DOM Tubing, anything less like HREW or gas piping will not hold up. I am sorry i sound like an ass, but trust me i know from experience. I have the DOM Cage interior cage done on my pathfinder hidden into the headliner, and pillars. I know it will hold. Please redo the cage.

Dude i do have talent when welding, you will not be safe when you are riding in the vehicle, i have even asked some freinds of mine and all they say is when you do flop it, hopefully the only person in it is you, so no one else gets hurt. You are the tard that welded stright to the A-Pillar of the truck, that has no structural integrity now that there is no roof on the vehicle. you will not last on flop with that so called cage. You did not homework when doing this, you can't weld and you honstly from the looks of it shouldn't be driving... if you make something that is that bad, then you have no business behind the wheel of any vehicle.,

I pray to god you don't even drive that on the roads, from what i can see, the welds on the "cage" look like a pigeon took a @!*% where you put two peices of metal together, i mean for gods sake at least run it down to the floor, plate it, and than take it to the frame with a butt peice on the other side

dude i give you a moderate flop, not even a roll and the "Cage" will be crunched. Do it right, cut all the crap you put on it off, and build it right or don't build it at all. Youo most likely made it out of HREW Tubing and that's not going to hold up. I just finished my interior cage, 2" .250 wall DOM Tubing, like i said do it once and do it right so you can have fun, otherwise, don't do it at all

I know most guys that run the solid axle up front, and run coils use early bronco 5.5" Lift coils. My question is can I use jeep XJ coils instead of the bronco ones? The reason I ask is that I have the XJ coils laying around, and was just wondering if they would work?

I did find it. Thank B John

Hey Guys!! Been a while since i've been on here, but i have a rather odd question. Does anyone know what the Fuel Sending Unit Ohms were in the 90-95 WD21 Fuel Tanks? Thanks John

You actually could in fact use the rear axle for the front. You would need two steering knuckles from a Dana 60, Custom axle shafts made for steering, and if you really wanted to, you could re-tube the axle for the offset pumpkin, or you could leave it in the middle. I have seen a few yota guys do this, and they have no problems at all with it.

there are four options, Lok-rite-rear only Detroit-rear only ARB-Front and rear Weld that bitch up-any open diff you want

precise, that would be me. i got a 92 tranny, and well the gears are all interchangeable. there is a little bolt to the left of the gear, and it is a 10mm bolt head, un bolt it, and pull out the old speedo cable, you may have to twist it a little to get it to release. put the new one in, and bolt it in. your mechanic is a retard if he says that they're different.

"or will trade for 2000 or newer chevy tahoe, suburban escalade, denali , yukon" Can you say Beaner. you want some dubs too

the most fuel i have ever fit into my tank was 20.3 gallons, and well i was dang suprised, since i normally only fit like 16-17 in it. i have no fuel light, so i assume mines broken, oh well

i've got an extra one with all the dimple dies in it

i gotta call bs on that one, i got the treadwright gaurd dogs with the kedge grip, and well even though they're not all that great of a tire, they had bomb diggity traction on anything especially rocks.

i run them, they're okay for a street tire, not good on any type of rocks at all. they chunk out bad, really bad almost to the point of losing an entire tire lug. so yeah they're cheap, and trust me that's what they are. cheap, and not worth the money IMO again.

it might be illegal in California, but i know for a fact with the exception of washoe and clark counties in Nevada, you don't need a catalytic converter, or even a muffler for that fact. my pathy likes the hollowed out catalytic converter and the flow master 40 series muffler. it's got a nice rumble to it, and damn it's got some power pretty much straight piped.

if you don't have the dust boots and you need to replace your t-bars you'll have to heat up the end and whack them off with the BFH, ask me how i know

thats exactly what mine did, 172 were fine, but i lost 3rd and 4th, so yes a tranny will be in order for you. i got mine from JDM Engine Depot, they have a tranny on ebay right now for 299.00 Tranny on ebay good luck

i don't think its the fact that i wheel hard, but more the fact that im not scared to break @!*%. i follow out local group through trails that they go on 36's-38's, and i'll do it on 31's. if it breaks i'll get it home, fix it, and do it again until i finish the trail.

dude i've broken the upper joint, the lower joint, the stub shaft going into the hub, and i have snapped a shaft in half in between the u joints. yeah i probably would pay that. I have had the 4x4 arts shafts and they actually felt lighter than the replacement ones from napa, so i didn't trust them at all.

Is there anything out there that is stronger than the replacement cv half shafts for the pathfinders. I keep breaking mine with the ARB. busted another one today, im really sick of having to replace them almost every three months. Thanks John

im sorry i just couldn't help my self, but check them, the wiring, fuses, brake switch, etc.

the bulb