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Subframe drop for R50


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  • 4 weeks later...
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Hello dear forum users. I'm from Russia in English are not speak and do not write, read with difficulty. Please forgive me for the tiny text.
I am interested in the topic of lifting terrano (pathfinder) 50-th of the body. Going to increase the clearance of Nissan Elgrand. He has 100% compatibility of the running gear parts and fasteners stretcher with terrano. Plus to that is not documented gear in the transmission.
I want to make followed by a minibus with a comfortable interior.
Ask why not the Mitsubishi Delica? so the circumstances.
In this topic a lot of photos with the details of the shims are opened. Could You re-post pictures in this topic?
Thanks in advance!

Edited by valday33
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Проставка над стойкой имеет угол наклона 8,5 градусов?
в какую сторону ставится наклон проставки?
Как усилить крепление проставок, чтоб подрамник не шатался на плохой дороге?
У знакомого, после установки комплекта подрамник имел движение влево-вправо. Он делал перемычку между задними.
Возможно есть готовые решения?
поднимать планирую на 4".


Spacer over the counter has the angle of tilt of 8.5 degrees?
in what direction is the slope of spacers?
As to secure for the shims to a stretcher is not hanging out in a bad way?
From a friend, after installation kit stretcher was moving to the left-to the right. He did a jumper between the rear.
Perhaps there is a ready-made solution?
lift plan to 4".

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  • 2 months later...

not sure if anybody has thought of it but i have 2.5 inch spacers up front and stock springs im doing sfd but since the spring bucket has clearance issues i was gonna do the 4 inches on the bottom where the spindle connects to the strut thus giving me 4 inches more of tire clearance and lift any insite or thoughts would be appreciated

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Hi guys,


are KR Fabrications still in business? I tried shooting them an email from their contact info on the website, that was a couple of weeks ago - no answer.


Anyone know if they're still doing the SFD kits??

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  • 2 months later...

Ok, So i haven't even taken delivery of my QX4 (Monday 7/7/14 is the day!) and I'm gathering my parts list over the last few days. I'm planning on doing a SFD w/ 2" coils front. My question is can any of you SFD'ers give me a manufacturer and PN on the WJ 6.5" coils you used. I've been using the search function and can't seem to find more that "jeep 6.5 inch coils". I googled the topic and have only so far seen the Rusty's Coils 6.5" WJ lift springs. Are these the ones you guys have used? If not can you point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance! Also what is the length rear shock that needs to be ordered. Thanks again.



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  • 2 weeks later...

From Andrew at Krypton Fabs:

In the rear you will want the 5.5" lift springs from a wj jeep. Iron rock offroad carries these. These will mount with our regular wj adapters.

For shocks in the rear, you will want a set of rear 2000 f350 2wd shocks. If your pathfinder is a 99+ (newer body style), you will want the same application but specifically a monotube type shock.


I went with the stock KYBs at the time. I plan to upgrade to air-adjustable, eventually.

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  • 1 year later...

You have to create a login first



Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

Yeah, I have a login. I have ordered from them before for my last pathfinder I lifted. But at checkout, it says, online orders aren't being taken. I also emailed them with no response. I hope I can still get these parts. I already ordered everything else to go with it. Is there anyone else selling a kit like it?

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  • 2 years later...

Apologies for digging up such an old post, here are some pictures of the original kit I built in 2005 and the two prototypes that were sent to Colorado.  The pictures should give someone an idea of how the parts are made for duplication.  As was said before, the hardest part is the strut spacers which require precise angles to achieve original geometry.


Drop lift pics from 2005. I do not recommend the steering spacer block!


http://overlandtrucks.com/system-f/drop lift/



Here are pics of the two prototype lift kits I made and sent to Colorado (in 2009). 




This one has a good picture of the Honda steer u-joint that should be used:





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  • 9 months later...
On 9/14/2009 at 5:30 PM, MichiganAve said:

Aspects of a subframe drop include:


-The subframe drop is 4 blocks. You can design it several ways, but honestly its simple. You are just making a rectangular spacer between the bolts and pushing the whole subframe down. Mine are 4" height.


-The engine requires 2 blocks the same height as the subframe drop blocks. These are also very simple design. Again just a spacer between bolts, rectangular with no angle.


-You also need to lift at the front suspension. However there are no longer struts available, so anything longer than AC coils will lead to severe topping out. So you will need spacers here too. These are NOT straight to keep the geometry right. If you are designing your own lift then you'll need some trial and error to make the angle right. My spacers are 2.5" and the rest of the lift comes from the AC coils. Most people have used 4" spacers plus AC or OME coils to achieve 5-6" total lift.


-You need to extend the steering shaft. I think most of us are using a honda U-joint with a spined shaft that matches the R50 shaft for the extension. I do not know if a straight extension would work, but I can confirm that this method does.


-The rear lift is much simpler than the front. You can use straight cylindrical blocks, longer coils, or both in combination to achieve the desired lift. I have 3" blocks and AC coils. There may be coils from another vehicle that fit, or you can order custom coils.


-You will want longer travel shocks in the rear


-You will need new bump stops in the rear and possibly limiting straps


-The stock panhard rod will be out of stock specs and force your rear axle towards the driver's side. The setup will work like this, but ideally you should make a drop bracket or a longer rod. Adjustable upper and lower control arms can be considered as well.


-You'll need longer brake lines front and rear


-You'll want to extend both differential breather tubes


-Your rear swaybar will be out of whack. I modified a stillen swaybar with longer links that can be disconnected with a single bolt. The front will still work if you want to keep it.


-The front skidplate will no longer work, you'll want a new one.


-Ideally you should add lateral bracing of the blocks up front. The SFD is kind of like putting your vehicle on stilts, and actions like laterally winching could twist your subframe. A solid skidplate will help.


-You'll need to adjust the routing of your front ABS line to prevent stretch


-If you are going with larger than 33" tires you will need to do a lot of trimming even after this lift. Of course you'll want to re-gear as well, especially if you have 4.3's.



The front blocks:



The rear blocks:



The engine spacer:



The steering extension:



The skid and driver's side front block:







I owe Tyler Morgan thanks for doing all the research and providing me with a Prado prototype. You will run into hiccups with any custom project like this. Installation is a lot more involved than doing a regular suspension swap and you will need multiple jacks and stands. Air tools and an engine hoist would make it easier. However, I had very little experience and did the installation alone with only hand tools.

does anybody know how to view these images?

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