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Subframe drop for R50


shift220
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Here is my idea for what we are going to try tonight. Cut some new tubing. Keep the top side perfectly flat, and the bottom angled somewhere between 8 and 10 degrees. The cam bolts really do not allow for much adjustment. The angle on the bottom will have the high side facing out and the low side facing in, allowing the outer edge of the strut and thus the knuckle to be brought up...atleast thats the idea.

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Andrew,

 

The strut spacers are angled but the top and bottom flanges are parallel to each other. If you set them on the floor, then top should read level. The flange will be offset. I posted this pic up earlier in the topic

 

pipespacer.jpg

 

Then the flanges must be aligned properly with the tube so the strut mounts in the proper place. It can get quite confusing, especially since the driver and passenger sides are mirrored

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Also, you can use two camber bolts per side to get double the adjustment.

 

To tell if you put the strut spacers in the correct orientation, the bottom flange should be behind and inward of the top flange. So for example looking at the passenger spacer from below: The bottom flange should be offset towards the driver's seat. Hopefully this makes sense somewhat.

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Thanks, yeah, I know mine went on with the right orientation...I am just freaked at the amount of camber adjustment that will be needed. I'll post up after my alignment tomorrow...

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Yeah, im just probably going to wait til shift220s spacers get here as I will most likely wind up using his. Other than the strut spacers and steering my kit is identical to his 4in kit. So hopefully that will fix the issues that I am having.

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Took my rig to Firestone for the 3rd time in 6 days...they had it for 7.5 hours and did NOT do any work on it. The 1st two times they made an excuse for why they couldn't work on it that day. Today the service manager apologized for not getting to it (I had an appointment by the way) said I could try to bring it back FRIDAY and MAYBE they'd work on it. HORSE PUCKY! I talked to a friend/mechanic and he told me to bring it in tomorrow morning and he'd make it work. He said there are other tricks of the trade to work with camber adjustment and he just wants to see it in person.

 

I'll post up tomorrow afternoon how it goes.

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Glad to see some more people get the SFD lift, I personally love it except when I have to work on it lol; I actually didn't have to get a alignment just had to adjust my steering wheel to make it straight after I put in the new steerign linkage. The only time I had to get a alignment after the SFD is when I was out on the trail and smapped my tie rod and put a new on in. I never even had to use camber bolts; I still have the original ones in and never messed with. Thanks to Shift220's Strut spacers it kept it in stock alignment.

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Quick updates, been driving her around like that for a day and the only issues really are not being able to see out my rear window but 10 feet and the steering wheel being in the wrong location. Other than that she drive better than before, smoother over bumps too. Also my existing wheel shake that I had before the lift went from being at 50-55 to starting around 43 and ending around 50 which isnt that huge of a deal. Its probably due to my tires being so out of round, or out of balance. Its non existant once you are over 50mph which is the good news. Could also be due to the fact that one strut spacer is a half inch taller than the other at the moment :chairfall: Onto some pics I took in terms of heights and stuff.

 

Next to stock before the lift

018-4.jpg

 

Next to stock after the lift

SfdDrivingPart1001.jpg

 

Next to the tank before the lift

beforesfdtank.jpg

 

Next to tank after the lift

SfdDrivingPart1003.jpg

 

Youtube video for those that are interested

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Looks good, Andrew! Cali lean is awesome but it'll look epic once the rear is lifted to match. :aok:

 

Just wondering about your steering. Did you take pics of the whole install? I want to know more about rotating the rack and seeing what you did.

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Computer hard drive crashed last Friday, so I have been out of sorts until today. Sorry for the delay.

 

I'm going to order another camber bolt kit and see how close I can get the wheels to "come in" before I get the actual alignment done. I've run out of free time and this is taking longer than I thought... My driver side tire is close to neutral but the passenger side has a bit more to come in. I think it's possible to get the camber very close and then fix the toe and it should ride quite nice.

 

The pic from the front is quite similar to how mine sits right now. Is that without an alignment? Or after the alignment?

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Yeah thats without an alignment. We just did our own alignment with a tape measure. Basically the passenger side right now with the strut spacer that I got in my kit is about the posistion that it was in before the lift. That side only has one camber bolt at the moment but once I get another I think it will be perfect. The drivers side at the moment has the strut spacer that we made in it, with 2 camber bolts adjusted to the max. Once I set in the other strut spacer, I should be golden I believe. The toe adjustment REALLY helped me with the alignment, its still a bit off and pulls left but its no big issue at the moment cause i know its going to change again with the other strut spacer.

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Holy steering wheel!!! Watched the video, sorry for the loss. Did it get spun accidently during install? Mine was off just under 1/4 turn when we put the linkage on but I fixed it shortly after cause it drove me nuts (pun intended) driving down the road like that.

 

Still looking for a local supplier to have the camber bolts, but haven't had much luck with on-line inventory searches. Can't wait to get this dialed in so I can start working on the rest of the changes.

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Found a local O'Reilly Auto Parts store that had one 14mm Cam Bolt Kit left in inventory. Drove down after worked and picked it up. I looked it up on-line and the manufacturer indicates it can adjust up to 2 degrees (I figured that would be better than the 1 degree kit that a Napa store had). If I get them installed this weekend I'll get it aligned early next week and post up.

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do you have to rotate the steering rack with just a subframe drop? or is that only if you go more than 4 inches? i'm thinkin of just doing the SFD for now, but i'd need to have someone make the strut spacers, and i'd do the rest. but if i have to rotate the steering rack, idk how well that would go, and if i'd have to extend the steering linkage, i'm not to bright on binding issues.

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I was under the impression that it had to be done if the subframe is dropped and a steering extension is put in place. It helps alleviate some of the angle the joint is put on after the drop.

 

I didn't originally rotate the rack until this last Sunday with Thunderbolt. We both rotated our racks and adjusted the linkage - it looks so much better and doesn't have that "I'm gonna bind" look to it anymore.

 

We also added a second camber bolt to the passenger side (which was way out of whack). This brought that wheel to very close to neutral.

 

This morning I dropped it off at Firestone and talked to the services manager. He said sorry for the trouble and they'd have it aligned today. I'll post up after that's done.

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I also fixed my camber issues, ill take some pics and post up. I actually wound up using the spacers that came with the kit, they had a small angle on them and with the camber bolts the wheels actually have a bit of lean in to them.....so just a few little adjustments to do and im golden!

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Here is a pic, as you can see, the camber bolts on both sides are adjusted to their max and I have some negative camber. I will take them back to a neutral position when I get around to it, atleast the outside of the tire which is already super worn is not getting worse at the moment.

 

Oh and excuse the window paint

 

007-5.jpg

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