01silvapathy

Overall my install went easily, minus the few trips to Lowes for some hardware and Orilleys for some other things. I used my shop to do the job since there is a engine hoist to help support the thing while It was being installed. Overall took me about 6 hrs by myself. I started with the latch hook and rubber stop and support, I made some templates for drilling which was a bit harder since I no longer have the factory bumper cover. Got those installed with rivnuts and then used angled aluminum to rivet around them for additional support for the rivnuts as seen earlier in this thread. After that I latched it on and hung it by the engine hoist to line up the mounting locations. I gotta say drilling holes in the side of your body is not fun, I was pretty nervous but managed to get it right the first time Onto the quarter panel mounts. I decided to try to do a little extra reinforcement since I'm using a steel wheel with a 35x12.5r16 spare and I'm looking to go to a 37in spare down the line since that's what my other 4 tires are. That being said I only used 4 rivnuts on the inside next to the hatch above and below the tail light. Those 4 are indeed impossible to get any additional bracing or nuts too. Rivnuts were the only option there. For the other 4 I used 10mm bolts and nuts with 1/8in plate steel brackets I made for additional support. The lower went on no problem but the upper was a pain to get lined up. Overall it feels extremely sturdy holds my weight 165lb plus the tire and wheel so easily over 200lb without issue. I just received my license plate bracket and light today from amazon so that's the next step in the process. Id also like to figure out a way to possibly make a stopper from swinging out too fast too far. Thanks to Harwish and others in this thread for that extra push to do this. Ill leave yall with some pictures, I'm a big fan of show and tell. EDIT: Idk why the pics came out sooo small but its been awhile since I have posted a pic on this forum so click them and they get bigger lol

Got mine in this past weekend. Did some extra bracing and it turned out well. Supports my weight and the (not fullsize) 35in spare on steel wheel just fine. Willb post pics tomorrow.

After further mock ups I'm somewhat worried that my carrier may be slightly bent? It seems like the brackets don't hug the curvatures of the quarter panel exactly. Like they have a slight gap in the middle of them. It appears that most all the holes touch the body but I'm just not sure if y'all have the same scenario or not? I'd be curious to see pics of those who have done it where the bracket meets the body without the covers. Another reason why I think it's been hit is because on the lower mount where the pin would normally go to hold shut the hiking is bent and almost not useable. Is it meant to hold it shut and open? Lastly. After taking apart the interior a bit it seems like I can get some strap steel behind atleast on the bolts closest to the wheel. And if the carrier is tweaked that might allow me the extra strength I need to bolt it on securely. I'll try to take some pics when I'm home.

Not dead yet! But I have been busy. So I picked up the tire carrier today for 25 bucks! Got all the pieces for it. I'm going to start cleaning it up this weekend then borrowing a buddies rivnut tool to finish the job. Only issue I have seen so far is that the latch is kinda sticky and doesn't like to release easy. Anyone had to deal with that? What's a solution or an easy way to take it apart and re build? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alright so I havent been on this forum for a long time. I am glad I found this thread and found a local tire carrier im picking up Saturday for 25 bucks. I will be tearing apart the interior this weekend or maybe week if I have time at work to take a look.

Well I guess im back again. Havent posted here since....2014 haha. I still have my trusty steed and I dont think I will ever get rid of it. Alot has happened since then, I got engaged and married, moved out on our own, switched jobs, got into our own house, made new friends and lost some. I have recently started with my new job and its allowed me to again start modding and doing things to the truck (it never really stopped just slowed down) But a lot has happened to her since then too...her heart stopped once due to a iacv issue, shes been on 37s two or three times, the doors have come off a few times, new lights and new adventures. Ill post some pics and if you have questions just ask away! I hope to get more active again with this forum and continue on my journey to the sas. I'm slowly building parts up and that's the next major operation The top pic is the closest to how it sits currently. On 35s with the rack and stuff just moved the lights to the bumper [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img]

Nope . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Don't know why the last two pics didn't post but here they are Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

So many have asked me how I mounted lights on my a pillars next to the windshield. I had roof lights and they shook too much and we're too noises the lights in this position give lots of light not much hood glare and they have zero shake at all which is awesome. How's how they look First thing I had to address while mourning these was making sure I could still open and close the hood easily which meant fender mounting theme was out of the question. As you can see the lights sit to the side of the hood allowing full movement of the hood. You will need to Dremel out your fenders a bit to allow this but it will work fine just tAke off a bit at a time. Open your door and take off the door trim that is rubber behind it the window trim will be screwed in using 4 Phillips head screws. Unscrew those and the metal trim will come off. The 4 screws are what make this a solid mount. Next take your light and find the correct size drill bit for the stud on the light. Drill a hole for the stud. Use a washer on the back side to prevents crushing the trim too much. Use washers on the upper side to make up for space. Now the most involved process. Take a screw driver and hammer and punch down the metal below the stud for the light to allow clearance for the stud and to allow the light to sit down in the body some. Place the trim up on the body and see how much you need to trim out of the fender to allow for correct aiming and placement for hood clearance. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/19/7u2epyda.jpg Just play with that Dremel and hammer for correct fit. After that just run your wires to power ground and switch. That just basic wiring which I'm sure y'all can figure out! Enjoy your new lights http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/19/aba3a7e5.jpg Any questions just ask! Hope this helps a bit Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I just did mine last week. Granted I work in a shop and have access to air tools and lifts. All in all it took me about 30 minutes. I did not need to take out any axles or a arms ect. Granted I don't have a bumper or fender wells in the way. Installation is easy only two bolts hold it in. One goes in from the front and one screws in from the back. I used long extensions and wobble sockets to get it out. Then unplug the connection and unbolt the ground. Then maneuver it out around the motor mount. All in all not too terribly hard just kind of tight to get too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My 01 with the vq and stockk 4.363 gears has plenty of power for 35x12.5s my 37x12.5 on the other hand were noticeably burdening

Yeah I got bored drinking beer with a truck buddy and this happend.....it was great only real downside was the loss of front speakers and tweeters.....so no doors but no sound. My next project is figuring out how to get an extra set of speakers in the truck without the doors. In other words make a soundbar.

You spent 500 dollars on headlights? I cant even begin to fathom that

To my understanding thats what the factory offset was

Admin please delete my saved posts it wont let me go back and edit to get my original post in order, or move my second post up Thanks for the perfect first response silverpath it was awesome!

6.5in Lift 6.5in Lift 2in Coils, SFD 4.5in strut spacers and custom rear spacers 16x7 6.75 Backspace Stock Nissan Double Tri Star Wheels 2.5in Wheel Spacers Front....1.5 rear to widen stance but not required 35x12.5x16 BFG MT KM1 Stock body front flares cut down and inner wheel well plastic, rear fenders trimmed it worked that way Didnt like the look so I removed front and rear flares and cut front fenders an inch or two higher 6.5in Lift 6.5in lift 2in coils SFD 4.5in strut spacers, custom spacers rear 16x8 0 Offset MB Vortex Wheels....4.5bs wheels 2.5in front spacers, 1.5 rear 315 75 16 (35x12.5x16) Nitto Trail Grapplers Same trimming as prior trimmed front and rear spacers 6.5in Lift 6.5in Lift 2in coils SFD 4.5in Strut spacers custom rear spacers 16.5 x 9.75 4.5in backspace pro comp xtreme rock crawler steelie 2.5in Spacer front, 1.5 rear 37 x 12.5 x 16.5 Goodyear Wrangler MT/S Same trimming as prior for front, rear was cut and tucked Current Setup 6.5in lift 6.5in lift 2in coils SFD 4.5in strut spacers, custom rear spacers 18x9 -12 offset Ballistic Wheels 2.5in spacers front 1.5in rear to widen stance 35x12.5x18 Federal Couriaiga MT Same trimming as all prior lol Well thats all I got for now hope it sheds some light and that people FOLLOW THE GUIDLINES AND HELP OUT BY POSTING YOUR PREVIOUS SETUPS!!!!

Okay so the last around 10 times I have been on this forum in this section I have seen probably 3 or 4 seperate topics reguarding tire size and what to go with based off of how much lift you get ect ect. I have had alot of different wheel and tire setups along with around 4 years in the wheel and tire industry working at Discount Tire, a Wheel Repair Specialist and my current sales manager posistion at a Corporate Goodyear Store. I think I can explain pretty well what you need for a few different setups and how it will look or workout for you. Heres how its going to work, im going to post my past setups from stock to mild to wild and tell you how it fit and how it worked out. There is going to be a certain format for this. I would love for members to start posting all the info they have to get a database of sorts going but lets leave out the major discussions and just have this be information. Thanks! Lift Size And Brand (AC, OME, SFD or Combo?) Wheel Size (diam, width,offset/backspace) - Backspace and offset very important to determine the strut clearance Wheel Spacer (yes or no? Size?) - Dont want to buy new wheels buy a set of spacers for 100-200 bucks Tire Brand (obvious) - BFG, Pro Comp, Nitto, Mickey Thompson, whoever.....also important....the BFG At's in a 35x12.5 dont have a massive sidebiter and will fit with little offset...vs a Mud Grappler same size which has a sidebiter that sticks out 3/4 of an inch making the tire wider and requiring more offset or backspace. Tire Size (Overall Diameter, Overall Width) - Metric or Standard Clearance Issues ( Did you rub or have to trim plastic/metal....to what extent?) Post a pic Stock Setup No Lift 16x7 6.75 backspace Nissan Double Tri Star Wheels No Wheel Spacer Michelin Cross Terrain SUV 245 70 16 No Clearance issues 2in Lift AC 2in Lift Coils/KYB Struts 16x7 6.75 Backspace Nissan Double Tri Star Wheels No Wheel Spacer 245 70 16 Michelin Cross Terrain SUV No Clearance Issues 2in Lift 2in AC Lift Coils and KYB Struts 16x7 6.75 Backspace Nissan Double Tri Star Wheels 1.5in wheel spacers front only 285 75 16 (33x11.5x16) BFG All Terrain Slight trimming on front inside wheel well plastics 6.5in Lift 6.5in Lift 2in coils SFD 4.5in strut spacers/custom rear spacers 16x7 6.75 Backspace Nissan Double Tri Star Wheels 1.5in Wheel Spacers front only 285 75 16 (33x11.5x16) BFG All Terrain Slight trimming on inside wheel well liners 6.5in lift 6.5in lift 2in coils SFD 4.5in strut spacers, custom rear spacers 16x7 6.75 Backspace Nissan Double Tri Star wheels 1.5in wheel spacers front only 265 75 16 BFG MT KM1 No Trimming Needed

I agree on the sfd is worth every penny. Just save your money and get that. I used a 4in sfd and the 2in coils up front with custom spacers in the rear and ac coils. I have around 6.5 in front and 6in the rear. Take it from someone who has had literally every possible setup on their rig....2in with stock tires to 2in with 33's to 6.5 with 33's, 35's and 37's. The best way is sfd you can really cater to what you need pnce thats done. It just depends how far you want to go. SFD w/35x12.5x16 Nitto Trail Grapplers SFD w/ 37x12.5x16.5 Goodyear MT/S Current setup SFD w/ 35x12.5x18 Federal Couriagia

PM me a price for the front control arms crossmember steering box ect.

If you part out let me know about the front sas components

I carry two in mine. The gf's 8ft goes in the back of the pathy and my 10ft goes on the roof with the adition of some foam blocks and tie downs

I have a thread on here somewhere on how I trimmed my fenders. Basically took off the flares and cut just a bit above the holes for the flare mounts. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31243-trimmed-fenders/?hl=%2Btrimmed+%2Bfenders The rear was more involved and I wish I had pics but basically I made inch vertical cuts up into the quarter pannel every inch along the fender then hammered them in to roll them basically...then weld them together and grind them flat. Ill try and get some pics As far as the front bumper thats stock.....I wrecked the truck awhile back and the front bumper got bent and ripped up so I took it off and that metal piece is right behind it as the real bumper. Just drilled some holes in it and viola you have a metal bumper thats high clearance and a perfect place to mount lights!

If you trim up your fenders it will look as well as perform much better. I have 35x12.5x16 Trail Grapplers as well and the tires just barely tuck at full flex

Mine wore like that due to a blown strut

Hey now I'll do more intense mods when I can afford a daily driver to get to work... For now the pathys all I got