01silvapathy

With a 4.25 bs they will tuck perfectly...any more bs and they will hit the inner fenderwell...any less and they will hit the flare.

The stock 4.25bs works better in the rear cause the outer edge of the tire wont stick out as far thus it will tuck into the fender well without rubbing.

I ran 285 75 16 bfg at's on my 2in lift with stock wheels. I required 1.5in wheel spacers in order to keep the tire from rubbing the bottom of the strut. Here is a pic of that setup...little baby stage

Fluid level is right at half full. Guess I will fill it up and see if that helps lol.

So the past few days my parking brake light has been randomly coming on mainly during acceleration. I know the brake is no actually enguaged but it still annoying. Even when you pull the handle up and put it back down the light stays on. Im thinking that the cable might just be loose and need to be tightened? Is it easy to do?

You are aware of the wd's notorious frame rot issues correct...you know the main support for the body rotting away and falling apart

Go and get it aligned again lol

Atleast if I do that, it will be one that WONT look like swiss cheese after awhile

Oh really?

Lol, turns out shift_love lives like 15 minutes from my house and im supposed to swing by and help him with his lift sometime soon once he gets all the parts. After thats done we should meet up somewhere neutral between houston and dallas.

I predict a pathy meetup soon

Wow, thats more expensive than I thought it would be. I mean you could probably go and do a solid axle swap for a few hundred more than just the price of the struts if you do the work yourself. Regardless its still an awesome mod, and a cool truck! A video would be cool just to see how everything is mocked up

Its probably just the design of the mount, no need to worry about it as long as the shock still cycles without any issues.

Mines kinda the same, dont know why.

HOLY!!!! That is awesome man! Im kinda curious and have a few questions for ya though! -How does it drive on the street? Does it have alot of sway since the sway bar is no longer existant? -How much did the struts and everything set you back if you dont mind sharing? -More pics and videos of the setup would be amazing, even if it was just a little few minute video showing a few little parts of what all went into it and how its all set up....im looking at this as a possible mod, but never really thought about how to do it. -Lastly you are making alot of headway in this and I admire you for your courage and innovation!!

You can follow my install thread, some of it might be helpful. Just pm me if you have questions. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28342&st=0&p=536836&hl=+subframe%20+drop%20+install%20+thread&fromsearch=1entry536836

I tow a 1800-2000 lb trailer (depending on water weight) several times a week for work and im runnin the ac coils. It does not sag much at all and tows very well

No second vehicle..I mean my parents have two car....but they would flip if they found out it was broken and how it became broken lol

How much was it to repair? Did you actually get it repaired or is yours still broken?

It had been getting lazy over the past year or so....like taking longer to go into the full 4lo lock. Guess a drain and inspection is next on my to do list.

Sweet Z man, if only you had gotten an 01....you coulda had the same motor as your z Believe me its worth every penny

Pretty sure my problems are narrowed down to the transfer case. Tried out the 4wd again tonight and found out a few things. First off it goes FROM 2wd to auto and 4hi no issues at all the switch is immedate and works everytime. Going from 4hi into 4lo was giving me issues. There was some grinding slash ticking noises coming from the case and it had problems locking into lo. It would go into lo and you can feel it...but the 4lo light was still flashing...its not truely locked in til the light goes 4lo light goes solid and it beeps at you. Those of you with the allmode case know what im talking about. It took a good 6 or 7 times to get it to actually lock and be good to go with the beep and the solid green 4lo light illuminated. Going from lo into hi was not difficult but from 4hi into 2wd was. It was to the point where I was afraid I was not going to be able to get out of 4wd....took me a good 15 minutes of playing with the switch and going forwards and reverse in the lot to get it to kick out. Its pretty apparent by now that whatever is wrong and causing my noise is inside the transfer case. What exactly is still to be determined.

I have the atx14 which is the allmode case....has the electronic shifting and such. It has a lower lo range compared to the tx10 and is bigger in size. This unfortuneately means its more expensive to fix or replace. And yes im running 35's on stock 4.363 gears in the axles

Guess I will have to drain both the transfer case and transmission and look for metal shavings or any signs of damage?

So I was messing around with a friend yesterday off road climbing highway embankments and doing some hillclimbs and mudding. After the session was done I seem to have a grinding noise thats either coming from the transmission or transfer case. The noise seems to come from right under the drivers seat area. When accelerating from a dead stop there is a metal on metal sound and you can feel it too. Noise only seems to be there when im getting going like 1-2 gear, and its a little bit louder while turning. The front hubs are unlocked so the front driveshaft and diff ect are ruled out. The truck still seems to drive and shift fine, the rear driveshaft has no play in it so it wouldnt be a ujoint. The transfercase still works as should shifting in and out of auto 4hi and lo without issues. One thing that I will say i did do like a idiot was shift it from 4lo to 4hi without being in neutral and i may have been moving too. I quickly realized the mistake and threw it in neutral but could that have caused something like a chipped tooth or something? When driving and feeling/hearing the noise if you throw it in neutral both the noise and feeling go away....so it has to be something thats under load. The truck feels normal in reverse....silky smooth without the noise or vibration. The other thing I will throw out there is that the brakes seem to be acting strange. For instance when im coming to a stop the rear brakes seem to suddenly catch and grab....or feels like the transmission or transfercase or something is "kickingout" or something. Things I think it could possibly be -Chipped tooth in the transfer case -Something stuck in rear brakes? Highly unlikely -Transmission is grinding -Broken transmission mount or something? Motor Mount possibly? Any suggestions or ways to try and figure out whats going on would be greatly appreciated. I know im in the right place to ask for help