01silvapathy

Guess I will have to drain both the transfer case and transmission and look for metal shavings or any signs of damage?

So I was messing around with a friend yesterday off road climbing highway embankments and doing some hillclimbs and mudding. After the session was done I seem to have a grinding noise thats either coming from the transmission or transfer case. The noise seems to come from right under the drivers seat area. When accelerating from a dead stop there is a metal on metal sound and you can feel it too. Noise only seems to be there when im getting going like 1-2 gear, and its a little bit louder while turning. The front hubs are unlocked so the front driveshaft and diff ect are ruled out. The truck still seems to drive and shift fine, the rear driveshaft has no play in it so it wouldnt be a ujoint. The transfercase still works as should shifting in and out of auto 4hi and lo without issues. One thing that I will say i did do like a idiot was shift it from 4lo to 4hi without being in neutral and i may have been moving too. I quickly realized the mistake and threw it in neutral but could that have caused something like a chipped tooth or something? When driving and feeling/hearing the noise if you throw it in neutral both the noise and feeling go away....so it has to be something thats under load. The truck feels normal in reverse....silky smooth without the noise or vibration. The other thing I will throw out there is that the brakes seem to be acting strange. For instance when im coming to a stop the rear brakes seem to suddenly catch and grab....or feels like the transmission or transfercase or something is "kickingout" or something. Things I think it could possibly be -Chipped tooth in the transfer case -Something stuck in rear brakes? Highly unlikely -Transmission is grinding -Broken transmission mount or something? Motor Mount possibly? Any suggestions or ways to try and figure out whats going on would be greatly appreciated. I know im in the right place to ask for help

I know nothing about the pathy's manual trans....was it pathfinder specific or a common part that was used between a few different nissan models?

Looks like a shift over to a standard trans is next lol

You are my hero! Im definitely going to need more info on this such as parts used and how everything is setup. A driving video would be sick also!

It has rained quite a bit lately but its still not enough to put a dent in the drought problem we have had. Some lakes are still down a good 15ft

How dare you post a Toyota on a Nissan Site

Haha, thats no longer there on my truck lmao

X3 on the rear bumper, welcome man!

Uh oh, its back!

Welcome over man, Penski knows his stuff for sure...I love his truck lol. As far as tires go you can fit 285 75 16's on the 2in lift with wheel spacers and a tad bit of trimming. You might be surprised just how well the r50 does off road with a 2in lift, a good set of tires and a decent driver...it multpies with a sfd and bigger tires

It still took around 13 seconds to get to 60.....I couldnt live with that. Atleast not with my driving habits

Yeah and it was lifted at the time too

Heres an oldie from me, on stock size tires. Trucks now got 117k on it

That looks amazing but sounds really expensive!

You can get them on ebay from 80-120 bucks, sure it may be used but it will still work. But im one of those if I get in a crash, I get in a crash end of story people..... im not the biggest fan of airbags. Its my own personal choice and the other airbag works so whatever.

Thats literally what I did, took electrical tape and covered up the flashing light lol

I've run 31's 33's and im currently on 35's and I have never had my abs light come on except when the system kicks in which is mainly while braking in slippery muddy conditions or snow/ice and sometimes rain.

Ebay is the only place i found that has them, used too.

This isnt NICO......

Fact: Id rather take apart my suspension before any part of the interior

To start off, right now my truck is sitting with a 6in overall sfd lift on 35x12.5 bfg mud terrains. My truck drives great with the tires, I cut my front fenders a bit to clear the tires but it looks great as many have said. While I havent exactly wheeled the truck with the 35's I have had a few short off road adventures with them doing small hill climbs off camber stuff and mudding and I have to say the truck still feels very capable and willing to go at stuff. Still has plenty of pep and grunt to crawl too. Sure it may not be the fastest thing on the street but it can still pull around alot of ricers and scions ect. But keep in mind I also have the VQ which has alot more pep than that vg. Onto the whole sas deal. To do it right the only way I feel to do a sas is to go tons with a linked setup. Sure you can buy and build a d44 to be as strong as a d60 but for the cost of that you can buy a d60 and do a few upgrades to that....esp if you stay on forums such as pirate or local off road clubs where people sell parts all the time. If you are running 40's you will need a bigger axle than a d44/h233b...simple fact. One tons though it will be more work is the only way to do it. That being said the suspension would probably be a 3link up front with coilovers. As far as the rear id use a 14bolt full float with a 4 link design ridding the rear of the truck from the panhard but still using coils as there is no easy strong way to mount coilovers without cutting and installing a custom cross brace. If I do a sas this will be the likely route I take, cause im planning on running a 38in tire which is no great shake for a stock d60/14bff. Now if you want to run a smaller tire like say a 35 you would be good running a d44 up front. Most jeep guys will say if you build a d44 right it can take the abuse but then again there are alot that say you should run bigger than a 33 on the axle. Personally I know guys running 37's on locked rubicon axles and they still spin shafts from time to time. But if you wanted to keep the cost down and have a solid axle do a d44 and keep the rear suspension and axle geometry stock just like rods truck. You could weld the front and get manual locking hubs to have that taken care of and maybe get a lock right for the rear. Again the best suspension I feel for the front is going to be coilovers with a 3link. Its pretty much impossible to get leaves to mount and get good articulation and pinon angle (as noted with gopathygo's sas). With a link design you can push the axle further forward helping out that pinon angle. The only thing im having trobles with so far is steering since we are stuck with a rack and pinon I know rod used a durango steering box and a custom pump setup but then again I have a completely different motor so that might complicate things but thats something I have to look into a bit more. But good luck man, its something a few ppl are looking into at the moment but soon enough I feel it will become as common as the sfd....just gotta give it some time and allow peoples creative/redneck sides come out Im looking into it but my pathy is still my daily to school and work as well as a work truck to tow a trailer for another job so I need it to work and not be up in the air for a sas. Until then its staying as is and im happy where its at right now. Sure it might be cheaper and easier to buy an old piece of junk cherokee but everybody and their cheerleader sister owns a cherokee

Yeah my clock spring was broken in the process. My horn, volume control, cruise control nor airbag work anymore apparently LOL Still have not gotten around to replacing it haha.

I use every bit of my 32in extended length shocks lol

Awesome man! Glad to hear that you finally got the lift on. As far as rear shocks go im running pro comp es3000's. They have done me great from off roading to daily driving road trips with full loads of people and towing a trailer for work. They are cheap too, only like 70 bucks with tax for a pair of them. BUT HOW DARE YOU NOT POST PICS!