SMOKEYR50

Is he running them in a projector ? 55w burns brighter but it will burn a more yellow colour. So a 55w 6000k will look more like a 4300k 35w (OEM spec on most cars).

When not a single mod worth doing improves the fuel economy.....only makes it worse.

Yep fair call. I guess with anything that relies on air you need to make sure your install is spot on. I like the adjustability, but if your weight is constant then I would just go for an HD spring. That being said, I carry a fair bit of weight. Probably 300lb over the rear axle. Sub, steel cargo cage, 85L dual fuel tank.

Thanks Rick. Bit of a side story....I got the ARB colour coded recently. Got a brand new bar through insurance as my previous bar got the crush can collapsed when I rear-ended a chick who decided to 'brake-check' me. Needless to say, the ARB made light work of her hatchback and caved the whole rear end in.....serves her right. Not a scratch on the bar, but because there was a 5mm deflection in the crush can on the LHS (designed to absorb impact) they replaced the whole bar as I guess they recognise the crush can as being integral to the airbag system. I had a dash-cam installed, which saved me a lot of hassle as I was able to demonstrate with video evidence that I was 100% not at fault and I'm pretty sure she got in a fair bit of trouble as a result. It was testament to the strength and engineering of the ARB bars. I am convinced they're worth the money.

Airbags. http://www.pcoa.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=2973 Will suit you now, in the future and for every weight in between. I can run mine with 5psi and it sits at standard spring height. Air up to 25psi and it goes up an inch.

Tyres are ON! Poke a but on the rear, flush on the front - looks a lot tougher! Put a winch on too.

Sent you a PM Qx4204 - but pretty sure their extended struts are just to match their 40mm lift springs. Best bet would be to send them an email and ask them for a measurment of the strut from base to top nut when extended. Compare to AC. That'll give you the final word!

Hi guys, are KR Fabrications still in business? I tried shooting them an email from their contact info on the website, that was a couple of weeks ago - no answer. Anyone know if they're still doing the SFD kits??

I think some Japanese versions came with electric hubs, but OEM d22 navara manual locking hubs fit on r50s.....not sure what a navara is called in the US. Navara?

This is my setup: 25" 144W CREE LED on the bullbar 30" 180W CREE LED on the roof 55W x 2 Bi-Xenons in the headlights 55W x 2 in the fogs 18W X 2 CREE LED on the basket firing sideways

Don't you have 245/75/16s? On stock tri-stars?? That's not really the same setup.....I'm asking about 265/75/16s on aftermarket wheels with a much lower offset.....or have I missed something?

I can understand how if you get caught on a weird angle they can burn your retinas.....usually if stopped across from an intersection where the cars are on different levels, or if you have a car approach you on a ramp in a car park. But that's rare. I won't defend HID in reflector globes, but can't recommend them enough in a properly aimed projector. There is no way you can get that sort of cutoff and output from halogens though. And you wouldn't want to high beam me...... You would get 640w coming back at ya lol ;-)

'Hellaflush'?? Gosh I hate that term..... Haha What's your setup specifically, deltaR50?? I'm going to pull the trigger on the tyres pretty soon, just waiting on my wheel nuts to arrive from the UK so I can assemble the wheels and seal them up.

Which is why i don't condone running HID's in reflector housings. Put them in a projector as they were designed for. Admittedly you won't have auto-levelling that most projector/xenon cars have - but it will be a damn sight more controlled than running HID's in your OEM reflector housings. Aim the cutoff for below the mirrors of the car in front of you and you won't annoy anyone. I've never been flashed with my retro-fit. But back in the day, before I knew better, I am the first to admit I ran plug'n'play HID's in my LS400 factory housings......I used to get oncoming traffic flashing me all the time. Didn't really care. Then one night I was sitting on an overpass in crawling traffic, watching a sign attached to an overhead gantry on an adjacent overpass nearly 50m away......my headlights were lighting it up. That's how BADLY HID light sprays in a reflector housing. I took them out and replaced with halogen that weekend. Don't be that guy.

'Precise'ly...... I'm currently chasing a knock at the moment. I have been trying all these methods, but ironically I think it's the U-joints in the steering column, everything else is tight as a drum. Frustrating.

Yep - don't convince yourself that it'll be a cheap and easy fix. These IFS setups have so many moving parts, but it only takes one worn part to introduce a clunk. Best way to diagnose is to get on your back under the truck, look for perished rubber bushes and have someone swing on the steering wheel like a rabid monkey - try and locate the source of the clunk - and replace that part first. If pain persists, repeat process, ad nauseam.

That's the one. It's not the best projector money can buy - if you were dead serious about lighting you'd go for an LS460/S2K or RX330 projector - but it is sufficient for most. Put it this way, if the stock lighting is a 5, an HID kit in reflector housing would be a 6 - these kits turn everying into an 8. So it's a significant improvement in lighting, plus it's safer for you and other road users. If you want to go a custom route, like you're saying, i suggest you go spend some time looking around HIDplante.com forums - it's the go-to source for retrofits.

Projector threads straight into the hole for the stock bulb. It gets secured with a locking ring from behind. You can buy adapter plates that fit into the stock globe position that set the orientation straight so that your cut off lines are level, but mine were a bit off and I had to manually align them. See retrofitsource.com - there is heaps of info on there, their site has become much more informative over the past year. When I started doing retros it was a matter of screwing projectors into housings and praying it came out straight. Nowadays they have kits for pretty much everything - the hardest part is getting up the courage to take your lights apart.

Here's my retro....

Looks nice! You could stiffen up the rears with some airbags. Very cheap, super easy to install yourself and great for if you have to carry loads or tow - just pump them up to level the car again. Is the swaying at speed? ?If so, the swaying could be your rear trailing arm bushes - the lift might have finished them off. Pretty common on our rigs.

Thanks Rick, that's pretty helpful actually. Your tyre width is the same, and the backspacing close....but slightly more inboard than a 3.5". Safe to say if yours were line all then mine will be slightly out. But not so bad that I will be cop bait.......hmmm

New pads might cause the caliper rub as the pads are thicker, making the caliper slide further out in the piston. You're right in saying the caliper is fixed, on the snide. But a slide type caliper is two pieces and the outer half of the caliper moves in out as it grabs/releases the rotor. As the pads wear, the caliper self adjusts. It's is why you can often just slide a caliper with old pads straight off the disc, but to get them back over the disc with new pads you have to bleed a bit of fluid out. So with his new pads, the caliper was wider, possibly putting it in contact with the wheel. It's often only a mater of millimetres with these things!

And similarly, this guy running a 16x8 (-20) says they only protrude 8mm, but his offsets sit the wheel a further 20mm out than mine...... http://pcoa.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=5784 Very much confusion.

Thanks for that. I had been through that thread previously but not been able to find any side on shots of this size setup or any comments about profile. This guy on the pcoa boards is running this setup (265/75/16 on 16x8 +0)and seems to think it doesn't stick out.....which is why I am confused. http://pcoa.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=9391

Hey all, Hoping you can help - and before you stop reading - I have searched for HOURS and can't find a definitive answer. I need to know if this wheel/tyre combo will stick out from the body at all. In Australia our road laws say the wheel or tyre must not protrude from the profile of the vehicle - and the cops take great joy in enforcing that. I have a 2002 Ti, which I believe is the same as your LE. It has the factory fender flares. It's currently lifted approx 3inches using Tough Dog springs and 35mm (roughly 1.5 inch in your money) alloy strut spacers, 2 inch springs and airbags in the rear. I have 16x7 wheels with a -13mm offset. Which from my research is a 3.5" backspace. I want to run 265/75/16s (basically a 32" but a tiny but narrower) and wondering if someone can clear up for me if it will/won't hang out the guards. If so, maybe I need to go 245/75/16s.......but I don't wanna cos bigger is better. Right!? Thanks mates! I have some wheels for