SMOKEYR50

Yep fair call. I guess with anything that relies on air you need to make sure your install is spot on. I like the adjustability, but if your weight is constant then I would just go for an HD spring. That being said, I carry a fair bit of weight. Probably 300lb over the rear axle. Sub, steel cargo cage, 85L dual fuel tank.

Thanks Rick. Bit of a side story....I got the ARB colour coded recently. Got a brand new bar through insurance as my previous bar got the crush can collapsed when I rear-ended a chick who decided to 'brake-check' me. Needless to say, the ARB made light work of her hatchback and caved the whole rear end in.....serves her right. Not a scratch on the bar, but because there was a 5mm deflection in the crush can on the LHS (designed to absorb impact) they replaced the whole bar as I guess they recognise the crush can as being integral to the airbag system. I had a dash-cam installed, which saved me a lot of hassle as I was able to demonstrate with video evidence that I was 100% not at fault and I'm pretty sure she got in a fair bit of trouble as a result. It was testament to the strength and engineering of the ARB bars. I am convinced they're worth the money.

Airbags. http://www.pcoa.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=2973 Will suit you now, in the future and for every weight in between. I can run mine with 5psi and it sits at standard spring height. Air up to 25psi and it goes up an inch.

Tyres are ON! Poke a but on the rear, flush on the front - looks a lot tougher! Put a winch on too.

Sent you a PM Qx4204 - but pretty sure their extended struts are just to match their 40mm lift springs. Best bet would be to send them an email and ask them for a measurment of the strut from base to top nut when extended. Compare to AC. That'll give you the final word!

Hi guys, are KR Fabrications still in business? I tried shooting them an email from their contact info on the website, that was a couple of weeks ago - no answer. Anyone know if they're still doing the SFD kits??

I think some Japanese versions came with electric hubs, but OEM d22 navara manual locking hubs fit on r50s.....not sure what a navara is called in the US. Navara?

Don't you have 245/75/16s? On stock tri-stars?? That's not really the same setup.....I'm asking about 265/75/16s on aftermarket wheels with a much lower offset.....or have I missed something?

'Hellaflush'?? Gosh I hate that term..... Haha What's your setup specifically, deltaR50?? I'm going to pull the trigger on the tyres pretty soon, just waiting on my wheel nuts to arrive from the UK so I can assemble the wheels and seal them up.

'Precise'ly...... I'm currently chasing a knock at the moment. I have been trying all these methods, but ironically I think it's the U-joints in the steering column, everything else is tight as a drum. Frustrating.

Yep - don't convince yourself that it'll be a cheap and easy fix. These IFS setups have so many moving parts, but it only takes one worn part to introduce a clunk. Best way to diagnose is to get on your back under the truck, look for perished rubber bushes and have someone swing on the steering wheel like a rabid monkey - try and locate the source of the clunk - and replace that part first. If pain persists, repeat process, ad nauseam.

Looks nice! You could stiffen up the rears with some airbags. Very cheap, super easy to install yourself and great for if you have to carry loads or tow - just pump them up to level the car again. Is the swaying at speed? ?If so, the swaying could be your rear trailing arm bushes - the lift might have finished them off. Pretty common on our rigs.

Thanks Rick, that's pretty helpful actually. Your tyre width is the same, and the backspacing close....but slightly more inboard than a 3.5". Safe to say if yours were line all then mine will be slightly out. But not so bad that I will be cop bait.......hmmm

New pads might cause the caliper rub as the pads are thicker, making the caliper slide further out in the piston. You're right in saying the caliper is fixed, on the snide. But a slide type caliper is two pieces and the outer half of the caliper moves in out as it grabs/releases the rotor. As the pads wear, the caliper self adjusts. It's is why you can often just slide a caliper with old pads straight off the disc, but to get them back over the disc with new pads you have to bleed a bit of fluid out. So with his new pads, the caliper was wider, possibly putting it in contact with the wheel. It's often only a mater of millimetres with these things!

And similarly, this guy running a 16x8 (-20) says they only protrude 8mm, but his offsets sit the wheel a further 20mm out than mine...... http://pcoa.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=5784 Very much confusion.

Thanks for that. I had been through that thread previously but not been able to find any side on shots of this size setup or any comments about profile. This guy on the pcoa boards is running this setup (265/75/16 on 16x8 +0)and seems to think it doesn't stick out.....which is why I am confused. http://pcoa.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=9391

Hey all, Hoping you can help - and before you stop reading - I have searched for HOURS and can't find a definitive answer. I need to know if this wheel/tyre combo will stick out from the body at all. In Australia our road laws say the wheel or tyre must not protrude from the profile of the vehicle - and the cops take great joy in enforcing that. I have a 2002 Ti, which I believe is the same as your LE. It has the factory fender flares. It's currently lifted approx 3inches using Tough Dog springs and 35mm (roughly 1.5 inch in your money) alloy strut spacers, 2 inch springs and airbags in the rear. I have 16x7 wheels with a -13mm offset. Which from my research is a 3.5" backspace. I want to run 265/75/16s (basically a 32" but a tiny but narrower) and wondering if someone can clear up for me if it will/won't hang out the guards. If so, maybe I need to go 245/75/16s.......but I don't wanna cos bigger is better. Right!? Thanks mates! I have some wheels for

Correct. It's not bad - but it's there. It's the kind of noises that make me not confident wheeling it hard. I drive around in 2WD with the FWH's unlocked 99% of the time....but still. My measurement from center of hub to gaurd is 530mm if that helps you compare against someone elses lifted truck.

I have a 2inch lift with a 35mm spacer from Snake Racing (I'm in Australia). This adds to about a 3.5" lift once you take into account the extra weight from bullbar/lightbars/1000cca battery etc......and I get some issues with binding. I would say you'd be pushing it.

Yeh that's an issue - but if you can find the 'crystal' type headlights on eBay - they are usually a clear plastic lens, they would work perfectly.

All up cost was about $500 including materials. But a siginificant cost of that was shipping to Australia, I think you guys get free shipping.

It's all custom stuff from theretrofitsource.com I used Morimoto Mini's, Morimoto 35W digital ballasts, Morimoto 5000k 35w globes, a bi-xenon harness that plugs to the factory so that it flicks to high beams, mini gattling gun shrouds and XB LED rings to give the halo effect. The reflector bowls have been painted satin black and the shrouds colour matched to the car. Using properly designed projectos gives that nice sharp cut off line with that exotic blue colour band that you see on high end luxury cars (well, most new cars nowdays). It avoids getting all that glare and messy light pattern that comes from putting a HID kit straight into a reflector housing. Not to mention how much it annoys oncoming drivers.....anyway. Splitting the housings is easy done with a heat gun. Setting up the cutoff so it's even takes the most amount of time, but these Morimoto projectors are very easy to mount and retain the factory adjustments. Here is a pic of the housing: Halo's on - first paint scheme was chrome housing, gunmetal gray shrouds....

I did a retrofit on mine, this is 5000k HID in bi-xenon projectors.