nathanholtgrewe

Yeah, I have a login. I have ordered from them before for my last pathfinder I lifted. But at checkout, it says, online orders aren't being taken. I also emailed them with no response. I hope I can still get these parts. I already ordered everything else to go with it. Is there anyone else selling a kit like it?

Has anyone purchased the 4" sub frame drop from krfabs recently? I am really wanting to get a lift on my new pathfinder but the site says no online ordering. Anyone know why that is?

And yes, this is also where I got mine. They had them on sale and a coupon code for another $100 off. Just happened to be looking at the right time. Works great!

https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/complete-detroit-locker-assembly-p-5024.html The above post was in reference to this link. would it work? Says all h233b with or without LSD and 31 splines.

Would this one not work? Based on the description, it seems it would?

I ended up gettting all I needed from a junkyard for next to nothing. All is good now. A learning experience, but at least not a costly one. Thanks for all your input.

The VQ means you have the 3.5 liter I assume?

Does the master kit include all that is needed? Anyone have an idea what labor for something like that would cost? And it would still work with my front locker?

I pretty much got it all I think. It came with brake lines, panhard drop bracket, extended steering knuckle, spacers for rear, and of course the 4" drop blocks. Then I ordered the Jeep springs for the rear, got the AC coils for the front with new struts and shocks. In the rear I got some Ford F350 Shocks. All works great with a total of about 6" of lift. I am glad I went with it all. My truck is really a beast now. The FAQs on the Krypton website helped me decide everything to buy.

I also have the 4.3 gears, but with the 3.3 Liter. Will there be much of an improvement to make it worth it to go 35s if I am not going to re-gear anytime soon? I like the look and always want to go "BIGGER!", but mabye its not worth it. I am thinking of the extra inch of height and clearence in the middle, but maybe it isn't worth it. And if I did re-gear, which gears? 4.88, 5.13?

So I have been running 33s with 6" lift for a while now and I want to upgrade to 35s. The 33" upgrade already made the truck slower and pretty rough climbing hills on the freeway. Is it going to be a lot worse with 35s? I don't mind it being slow but I want to be able to get up North and I am not willing to drop the money to re-gear yet. Any input? I know a couple of you guys got 35s but didn't know if you had stock gears.

Its for the rear end. The spacer is also an adapter that allows you to use jeep springs on the rear. I used the entire kit and think it was a great deal. Saves a lot of time in trying to make your own linkage and panhard bracket, etc. I've been very happy with mine.

So I got some of this figured out. I took everything apart and I made a pretty good size mistake. The tension was okay. I put the washer that goes behind the harmonic balancer in front of the cover instead of the back. The result is, belt is ruined(I got a new one), the cover is bent up, and the washer or plate is tapered now like a cone instead of a flat washer. I am pretty sure it is supposed to be flat? So now, I am having a hard time finding a new lower cover and the washer/plate. Any ideas? Thanks again. I know this is a novice mistake, but my goal was to learn and it is working!

To be honest I didn't know there was a setting of the tension. I just put the new spring on the new tensionor back the way I took it off and tightened the bolt that holds the tensioner there. I figured the spring set the tension level. I really feel like the burning was something rubbing, maybe metal to metal and then it wore through something to make it stop. When it was smoking I thought I saw something glowing a orange red color at one of the front pulleys. Didn't get a good look since I immediately turned the truck off.

Hi guys, After finding out I could save $500, I decided to do my own timing belt on my 98 Pathfinder. My first time, but I am pretty mechanically inclined, I got the book and watched a few videos, etc. I got through all of it okay. I am sure I got the belt back on right and there were no real issues. I start it back up and it runs fine but starts smoking right away, so I turn it off. Then I ask a friend to start it so I can look under the hood to try and see where the smoke is coming from....Smoke it gone now!!Seems to run fine...But it is making a little bit of a higher pitched whining noise that it never did before. I don't want to really drive it until I know it is okay, something was definitely burning something to begin with, seemed like metal on metal. One thing I noticed during the install was the new tensioner I got did not spin nearly as freely as the old one, could this mean anything?? Thanks for any advice.

So I got my Lokka installed in the front, $200 shipped!! Now for the rear. I am having trouble figuring out if there is a mechanical auto locker for the rear end. Seems like some forums say ARB is the only way but I see some sites selling Detroit lockers and others for the rear. I have a 98 with LSD. How do I know how many splines and will these lockers work? Anyone use any of them? Thanks!

I found a steering rack out the third junk yard I tried. Threw it and its all good now. Not sure what was wrong with the other one but it works now!

I am trying to figure out which I have. Salvage yards want to know for parts. Some things I read said leather means LE but it seems like it is an option on the SEs also. I have leather, 4wd, power sunroof, does this mean it is an LE and I look for what they call non-SE parts? Thanks

So I tried the steering with the connector off the sensor, no change. Then I shorted the harness to the sensor and the engine revved up a little like it is supposed to I believe. Still no assisted steering when opened or closed. I assume this means its not the sensor.

Thanks for the idea. I looked at the sensor. No visible damage or mud. Is there a way to bypass it by removing it or shorting it to check to see if it is the sensor, is it normally open? Thanks again.

I don't see any kinks. And what is the center link? I found a new rack at a yard for $100 but it is for se models. Not sure if that works on my mine or not. I think I have an le. It has leather and all power and 4wd. Its definently not leaking. And the steering linkage/knuckle looks pretty straight.

Hi Guys, Looking for some input. I went out the other day and got really stuck. Front right was buried in a deep rut. Finally got it out with my high lift jack and a lot of digging, etc. When I got back down the hill I realized I had no power steering. With no leaks or visible issues I decided it was the power steering pump. I replaced it today, put in all new fluid, flushed out old fluid and air. Issue is still there. The only other things there are the steering box, and the rack. Anyone ever had a rack go bad like this. I can get one for like $150 and it doesn't look to hard to replace. What do you guys think? I have a '98 with the 4" SFD and 2" AC coils if that matters. Thanks for the input.

Where are your guys' turn signals now. Mine are mounted in the plastic bumper cover. Maybe the side lights could be rewired to do turn signals? Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk