Precise1

I agree with you, on both things but if I can set up a 3 gauge cluster almost as easy as a 2, hey, why not... Yep, that was one of the first ones that I found while searching... Those do look cool, but I'd rather save that kind of $ for a performance enhancement rather than visual. Headers or cool dash cluster? Easy choice for me... B

Haahaa!! You have your spare inside!!! *points* 8 bags of sand, 20 2x2'x2" concrete tiles, 4 8' 2x4, 10 3/8x36" rebar, a lime tree and my GF. That worked out to about 1200+ lbs... Drove fine, but the front end seemed a bit light. I kept telling the GF to lean forward... B

Much better, thanks... Lets see how this noob does... B

LOL, don't let Slick or Pezzy hear that!! I ain't buying it either... B

Thank you Sir!! The information on calibrating the coolant gauge is almost more than I know what to do with, but is valuable none the less. I think I had better just find an aftermarket 3 gauge cluster that is suitable. Being a machinist is handy as I can made adapters, mounting hardware, etc... It is a little disappointing as my old D720 pickup had the oil pressure and volt meter gauge from the factory; they told me enough to keep from breaking down or at least stopping where I chose. I don't see any less need for them these days... B

That was what I wanted to know, and the price per unit. I'm having a hard time deciding between 31x10.5 and 33x10.5 tires, but I plan to have all five the same and on the same rims. Thanks. B

Ok, now that I have a 'new' 95XE that is not terminally frame damaged like the one I have driven for the last 4 years, there are many things that I plan to upgrade/install/customize... One of which items is what I mentioned is what I am used to having and feel is necessary. Oil pressure, volt meter, coolant temp gauges, not just idiot lights and a relative gauge. Do the SE or LE packages include this? Are they dash gauges or elsewhere? Is it feasible to retrofit into a XE or should I just go with an aftermarket unit? Thanks for the input. B

I don't know if the wire missing allows it to leak, but yes, it should have a wire in it; it drives your oil pressure idiot light in the dash. Eventually, they do leak, and the fix is to replace it... (unless it is loose for some reason??) B

No worries Bud!! 95XE's are the way to go, I have 2... Now go download that FSM!!! B

I have heard of this before, but can not remember the answer. Besides, electric components are my weak point... Someone will be along shortly with useful information. B

I'm 98% sure that is your oil pressure sender unit. Above the starter, to the left of the oil filter, correct? It is not uncommon for these to fail (after years) and leak. Why I don't know but the solution is to buy another and replace it. I haven't done it, but I doubt it is too hard if you have the tools to get in there, I'm guessing a crow foot wrench. I don't have price info for you... B Ok, looks like $65... http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?N=1684...4294966237+5606 Ask Alkorahil (I'm sure I spelled that wrong). He runs a Nissan dealership on line parts counter. Look in the Classifieds/Services section for the info... The more we shop with him (and prices are GOOD for dealership items) the more he can justify spending time helping us... B

^ LOL That's redneck right there, I don't care who you are... I didn't know about the 1" lifts, thanks little Red. The other option is to get a 2 inch lift and just have the spacers machined down... I plan to go with a 2" lift myself... B

^ Exactly like he said. Clean the transfer case as well as you can so you can follow drip lines to the source of the leak. Yes, this is where we try to help you. We joke around a bit, but most everyone tries to help as well as they can. Where in Mexico are you, if you don't mind me asking. I have only been in Baja and my spanish is not as good as your english... B

I'll drive the GF's 95 civic, it can... Ok, lets get back to the topic of shocks, eh? B

Do you have a shop manual that includes the Z24i motor? That might be a good investment... B

In your profile you list years 94 and 87 but in the post, you say 95... I'm not sure it matters, but it always helps to be clear. To check the timing, you just need a timing light, clip it to the battery and the pickup to spark plug wire #1 (passenger side front IIRC) then aim the strobe down at the crank pulley. The timing mark and scale is at about 11 oclock. You adjust the timing by loosening the distributor lock nut and slightly rotating the distributor. 15 degrees+/-2 is the timing spec. Do this before worrying about the idle speed as it could change it. From there you would disconnect the AAC valve sub harness connector (I have no idea)and adjust idle via idle speed adjustment screw (picture doesn't show me where it is). I'll have to look next cigarette. Spec for the idle is 750 +/-50 RPM Oh, the best place for a Chiltons manual is in the outhouse, propped on the toilet paper hanger. Go here and download this!! http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0&start=0 B

Mory, I have no idea what this part may be, but your symptoms sound like bad O2 sensor. I believe there is a thread on how to test it and another one where it outlines taking it out and cleaning it off... with a torch. If you can't find them, I'll be glad to help. B

Considering how clean they were in my 2 pathys (and that I doubt anyone had ever done it before), I'd say several years interval, but that would of course change if you drive in harsh conditions. B

Good job!! Yeah, it just goes to show how much of a mark up there is... Did you get 4 or 5 tires?? B

Oh, sheit!! You better have them checked out by someone else!!! Seriously, well, I didn't know that and have to assume his work is immaculate... The valve seat failure in the '92's??? Ok, you have a '95 so that's not it. Can 5523Pathfinder take another look?? B

Thanks M1P!! I suggest you look in the Classified section here, there are a few trucks being parted out that could supply that part and the price should be reasonable. Personally, I hate putting a new piece on an old truck, it makes everything else look out of place... B

I have to ask, did they replace the studs? ALL the studs??? With the stronger replacement ones? If not, it could be the same thing revisited. B

Yes, it is, but the percentage is very low compared to the VG30 or even the TD27. I'm not sure the Z24 or TD27 was ever distributed for Pathfinders(Terranos) in North America. Spark plugs for the exhaust stroke, on the exhaust manifold side (left, standing in front of the hood). You have 8 spark plugs/8 distributor wires/2 coils, right? My Z24 did... Absolutely!! I don't believe it is a sneak peak item. "Your pretty much have to pull the front of the engine off" to quote a trusted mechanic I had at the time and my memory of the drawings agrees. Not that it is extremely difficult, but by the time you get to the chain, you may as well have the parts ready to put on... Good night. Don't worry, we will be here all week... Every week... B

Yes, I have heard of this, but never used it. I think it is more of an old timer/shade tree mechanic trick, not to say it doesn't work to some degree... This is what I did with my 'new' truck as it needed an oil change bad. (was dark) Use engine flush as per instructions. ($5, I can find the brand name for you) (engine oil poured out black) Replace oil and filter with the cheapest oil and filter the store had, ran it one week and drained it. (engine oil poured out black) Filled it with Castrol synthetic/dino blend and mounted a Bosch filter. (color of honey, hard to read on the dip stick) When this oil is due for change or starts to discolor, I'll probably repeat the entire process. You can add 1 qt of ATF if you want, but with out repeated flushing and filter changes, are you really achieving anything? It doesn't cost too much more to do it right. ($10 oil, $5 filter and $5 engine flush. Repeat as necessary...) B

Yes, it sounds like your tranny is toast. Does it do that all the time or only when warmed up? Do you have an external cooler? If not, DON'T DRIVE IT!!! The #1 killer of these auto trannys is that the stock radiator/tranny cooler gets blocked, starves the tranny of flow and lets it get hot (hot=bad). The other thing is to turn off the overdrive when climbing long/frequent grades. That said, IF you don't drive it until you mount an external tranny cooler and bypass the radiator unit, have it flushed (or replace the fluid) and maybe add some tranny saver, it MAY be drivable for an unknown length of time. This would at least allow you to choose the time when to park the truck and swap trannys. If the $100 tranny is in good shape, that is a very good deal. The problem is all the work and time required to replace the tranny only to find out it has problems also would suck. Even with a 'new' tranny, you should follow the steps listed above. The tranny removal is pretty straight forward and listed in your manual. If you don't have a manual follow the link at the top of the General Forum for the FSM, it will be the same. It goes like this: Jack the truck up and disassemble 1/2 of it... B