Precise1

Well, if unccpathy can not CAD for you (ease up Bro, not saying you do not know how... ) I have SolidWorks and can probably handle it. "Bar napkin" drawings are fine to start with, Gods know I have seen plenty!!! Let me know... B

No, we don't. On the other hand, we don't want to scare you... Vehicles of similar weight, shock spec, interchanging them is ok. Don't think there is much of a bonus going for stiffer unless you like abuse... Honestly, I don't know the shock specs for the lifted pathy, especially since they are not always the same. Spring tension, weight, torsion bar tension, uca's, etc... Honestly, I'd say if you are with in 3/4 inch, you are close enough, unless you are going for max articulation, rock crawling, etc... Have you removed your sway bars, bump stops yet? If not, You'll never know that the shocks are limiting you... B

Low if you are driving appropriately for the conditions, backing off if you are not confident and comfortable. Moderate if you are recklessly screwing around, power sliding, doing doughnuts, jumping, etc. Yes, it is fun, but like anything else, the skills take time to learn and the learning curve can be steep. High if you driving as stated above while impared (alcohol or drugs). B

Probably bruise your kidneys bad enough after the first 100 miles that you would piss blood for a week... B

X3 Make sure you remove the FILL plug first. If you have trouble getting it out, draining it first is ill advised. Have you read the TSB about 'overfilling' the tranny? You have GL4 oil, correct? B

SWEET!!! I also love that truck. Nicely done and congrats Bud!! B

Could you have a slight exhaust leak from the headers on that side? Congrats on all the work!! Sounds like you'll have a ultra-reliable Pathy in no time now!! B

Well, John, I have a 1965 VW Bug Convertible Baja rolling chassis in the driveway I'd give you if you weren't a few countries away. It looks somewhat Mad Maxish, but is a hell of a dune buggy. The 78 convertible in the garage you can't have at all... Ok, as for search, practice. The key is in the advanced features, read the help and experiment. It does work ok, and you will need it in the future. Next, try only to address a single main question or related items in one thread. We'll help you with everything, it just makes it easier to read and reply. Ok, it sounds like bushings need attention, both in the front and rear. In the front, check the sway bar, control arm bushings and the tension arm (?) bushings (the arm pointing back from the lower control arm into the frame. The bushings wear and the rod enlarges the hole it goes through, slopping around). Jack it up and look for slop in your ball joints. See if there is any noticeable play in the center link and tie rod ends. In the rear look at the pan hard rod bushings (the one that goes from the axle to the frame) and the trailing arm bushings (from the frame to the rear axle). Do you have a manual? Down load this... (and read, read, read!) http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9692 Make sure these bolts are tight.... The front cross member ones. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19042 That should be enough to keep you busy for a while. Depending on how much is worn out, a kit like the Calmini may be a good idea as it replaces the springs, ball joints, shocks, some bushings, torsion bars, etc. $950 is a little expensive, but it is all quality parts... B

^ Just as the man said... B

Get a free photobucket or whatnot account. Up load the photo to it, copy the image address and use the image button (above, bottom row, 4th from right) to insert it. Sounds cumbersome, but a breeze when you have it set up/done it a time or two... B

LOL, I was editing my comment after looking at the photo again, got distracted by the chattering GF, then reposted. Saw your reply and was confused for a moment. Ok, I'm glad my initial hunch was correct and you are on your merry way... B

I'm guessing that in the first photo that shows the bottom side, the two tabs with the 'slot' in the middle is where you pry it open? You have enough rust and corrosion that I can't really tell or judge the thickness of the metal. It's dark and raining here, so the best I can offer is that I take a look at it tomorrow after work and see what I can determine... B

There are a few threads about dealing with the remotes/alarm system. Search around a bit and I'm sure you will find some info. B

Try an adjustment if the front seems low, just remember, an alignment is advised if you make any significant changes. It could be that just preloading the T-bars that much more will reduce the bounce, but I'd guess you need new front shocks. That's what is supposed to dampen the dip and sway of the suspension. Combination of the 2? Hard to tell from here... B

I can tell you the bulb info tomorrow; the whole set is out of the old 95. I have the plastic piece, but some of the retaining tabs are broken (PO, IT WASN'T ME!!!) but it still holds in ok... I want to sell everything I can, but can't be too serious about a piece of plastic. Let me know and I'll tell you the bulb info tomorrow. Hell, I bet I have some spares... B

I'm new to the whole remote thing myself. While it seems to work fine, I dread the day it gives me problems. My remote looks exactly like the second $43 link. While I know very little about the in's and out's, is it worth $10 for possible compatibility issues? My 'factory' unit unlocks everything and has not given me any problems. B

Ok, correction. The cable can not be preloaded as I had thought. It appears 'pinned' in place at the hand lever... I have an idea for the rear adjustment area that should be acceptable. Give me a few days to work it out... B

What year, you say throttle body? Can you post a picture? I don't know the TBI systems first hand so I'll refrain. B

Congrats on the upgrade. I know you needed something other than a beat up a WD21 and you seemed to have found an R50 you like. We now have almost as much support/information for the R50 as for the others. Are you going to lift it?? B

Trail Master 4" lift, $500. Check it out... http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/pts/890745826.html B

You can adjust the rear brakes through a little port. There is a star wheel that spreads the shoes. Past that, they are self adjusting, reversing and applying brakes does that I believe. If your turn buckle cable tensioning dingus is maxed out, there isn't too much you can do short of being creative or buying new cables. I am in the same position; my rear brakes are in good shape with plenty of pad left, adjusted properly but the parking brake barely holds the truck. I plan to make a spacer that clips over cable at the lever end, effectively extending the cable outward from it's socket .25-.5". I have to take a few measurements but perhaps I can do that today. I'll fab up a few so if you are patient, you can have one. B

Looks nice, but I'm not sure about the 'rock crawler' part. Personally, I know NOTHING about these vehicles so i have no idea of their reliability, value, etc. B

Well, I'm sorry you had to pay $270 to get it fixed, but I'm glad it is fixed. Wasted time and peace of mind can add up to $270 pretty quick though... B

That's what she said... B

Congrats!! But hey, where are the pictures !? B