Precise1

It's pretty straight forward. The sender unit goes in where the current oil pressure senser is. If you put in a T you can run both... Here is the install information. Almost all will be the same... http://www.iequus.com/support/product_manuals.php B

Here is a trick I have used to seperate cases that you don't want to go gorilla on. Get a pack of the old fashioned single edged razor blades and a small hammer/wrench/etc for tapping. Clean the seam, align the razor blade carefully and tap it into the seam. Leave it there and tap another one in 2-4 inches away. Do this until the mini wedges split the case apart. It has always worked for me... B

Best I can do... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...amp;hl=U+joints B

Totally, shamelessly plagarized but is the basic information.... Read the full write up here. Far more information than can be digested, so bookmark it... http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Recovery/index.html B

Make sure the timing belt has been changed. 105,000 miles is the recommended change interval. You have a good idea of the other things to check by now, I believe... B

Well, it comes down to your needs and wants. If you don't need (or want) the pathy, and you can get a Maxi with money to spare which suits your needs better, hey do it! Personally I don't know a Maxima from a hole in the ground (other than it may have parts I can scavenge) so I can't help there. Just make sure you aren't trading something mostly fixed for something needs fixing... B

LMAO, the guy probably thinks you are insane to travel 1000 miles to buy his Pathy. Well, so do I, but hey, good luck!! B

Must have... I like the tinfoil wrapped bumper corners... Yeah yozsi, we have all tried to some degree. It doesn't seem to work... B

I'll point out that the dashes of the 94-95 are different than the previous, so it is quite possible the jgt will have little issue accessing the motor in her 92... B

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7466 That should help... B

Mainly the dash, instruments, etc. The 94 manual will work for a 93 the vast majority of the time. Supplement that with a Haynes manual and you are good to go. IMHO Chiltons manuals are only useful when you run out of toilet paper... B

I average about 250 miles per fill up which is usually 16 gallons. This is driving 15 miles to work and back a day with several stoplights and the highest speed limit is 45mph... B

Kit, I mean order it. As on the Web. As shipped to your place of choice. As in steel, C1018, weld away. The place I quoted "MSC Industrial Supply" is not the cheapest (not a rip off either) but very convenient. You can order on line, tonight, and have it shipped to you. Check them out, figure out what you need, then web search and see what you can find elsewhere. It's not hard Bud, you can have all the steel you want within a few days without leaving the house... B

I don't know what the best fix is, but for a truck with 111k on it, thats hard to throw away. Not to mention a new motor would cost you $500, not to mention the install. It sounds like what needs to be done, but what I don't understand is the whole "this thing is never coming off again' bit. I don't see why that is or needs to be... B

SE dash, I'm guessing... Holy Crap, Sheepman!! Can I have your engine when you die?? B

Sort of what Simon said. If the crank is not damaged then all you need is a NEW pully, key and perhaps bolt. Then he can install it normally... What is he drilling and tapping? I'd tell him not to do anything until you (we?) understand exactly what he plans to do... Talk to Redpath88, he can tell you about crank woes!! B

Get an account (free) like photobucket, upload the photos there, then use the image button (above, 4th from the left) to insert the img address of the photo and you are good to go. Oh, your shocks are not responsible for holding up the truck. It sounds like 88 may be right, that you have broken a torsion bar (hooks in behind the lower A arm and runs back to the rear of the tranny. If it is not visably snapped, the splines may have stripped or something. Better check it out. B

I'm not sure what metal you need or what you are going to make, but you realize that there are many places you can order it from... For example, MSC Industrial Supply has something like: 1018 Steel Cold Finished Rectangles Material: Steel - 1018 Length: 72 Length Ft.: 6 Thickness: 1/8 Width: 3 for $38. This was obviously just an example, but if you want metal, it's easy to get... B

Yep, there was one lady living in a salt state that loved her pathy so much, when the frame failed, she a new frame installed. I can't remember the cost, but it was essentially as much/more than buying another pathy in good shape/low milage. Good to see you LG, how have you been? B

LOL, it sounds like the normal progression to me. I'm doing that to 2 vehicles at once... The good news is that when you are done, you have a nice, reliable ride. B Oh, did I mention that you are never really done??

Just abouve this in the 'pinned' section is a thread called 'pathfinder service manuals'. Go there, download the FSM, open it and find out what they call it in the exploded view. I'm fairly certain it willbe called 'compression rod or link'. B

Yep. Thats a junk yard or dealer item most likely. Make sure to get bushings for it also. The hole it goes into may be badly rounded out. If so, people tack weld on new bushing cups or bearing races for support. B

Ok, I did this in a 95. Your title says 95 and your signature says 96. Please straighten that out. The job is doable for anyone with some knowledge, a good place to work and proper tools. Tools: TALL jack stands, floor jack, 24" extension minimum + universals, clutch alignment tool and tranny jack. Place to work: Cement floor, much preferably in doors and heated Need to: Pull shifters, wire connectors, torsion bars, starter, slave cylinder, cross member, tranny mount, and remove the tranny (condensed version). Replace: clutch, pressure place, TO bearing, retaining spring. Inspect: Tranny input shaft/bearing/seal for integrity, fly wheel for the same/surfacing, rear main seal for leaks. Reassemble: All. Thats the cliff notes version. Nothing wierd about it, just a lot of work and a few pain-in-the-arses. You have the FSM, right? If not, download it from this site. Hint:It's cleverly hidden in the open... B

Stock tire carrier. You may want to buy a 6 gallon plastic gas can to mount. Here in Cali at least, I don't believe jerry cans are 'allowed' (sold new) any more due to no spill proof spout and poor vapor sealing (I could be wrong, but I thought I read this). Personally, I think that's stupid, but... I believe Packie88 relocated his spare tire mount off to the side towards the hinges to make more room for mounting. Look in the pictures/videos section under 'I've been busy' or something. Yeah, a gas can mount may be the best idea right now... B

Thats when I yell "Hey, get off my channel!!" This is where a properly adjusted parking break is invaluable. Use it, it can save clutches and bumpers... Damn, isn't that the truth!! B