Precise1

Yeah, I agree, that's not what I want to hear from my mechanic. On the other hand, I have been there before and the mechanic did his best, treated me well and didn't jerk me around. Oh course he was my neighbor also... B

*snort* GG said B

LOL, internet sales... Standard ground shipment will give me next day service. B

Yeah, sure Bud. Kitt asked me the same thing a few days ago so apparently there is an interest... Go here http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm (direct link doesn't work) and enter LD04887246 in the search window. That is the sale # ($12.99). The regular # is MSC# 04887246 ($16.88) Sure you can get regular safety glasses for a few bucks, but to me having the lights in invaluable!! B

Linkie no workie for me. B

Ok, just looking out for you. A few summers ago 4 or 5 members had timing belt issues. A few with very ugly results. I just hate to see something so avoidable happen... B

Famous last words... Seriously, this needs to be heeded. Everything from random crap falling to chemical spray and air hose blast, they are needed. I'm a machinist and I follow these rules because I have learned it's not worth the convenience not to follow them. You have 2 eyes and you need both of them for depth perception. Don't take a chance, put on safety glasses. Just a side note now that I'm done lecturing. The GF was doing her second oil change of her life and I handed her safety glasses... Again... I bought a pair of safety glasses that have a swivel led bulb at the temple. When I'm under the truck, not only do I not have to worry about crap in my eyes, I can see quite well due to the illumination. I recommend these for anyone who is an underside regular! You have said it best. Never heard of that (most places I worked at had a little device with a loop of monofiliment (fishing line) so you could wedge your eye open and lasso the little bastage (works well, but it sure sounds like fun, eh?). Actually, that trick works quite well. NOT if the chip (sliver) is stuck in the eyeball, but the normal caught in the eye lid crap. Get the strongest magnet you can find quickly (small hopefully, I have a few set aside for this) and gently touch it about the eye corners, under the lids. If it is ferrous, it is no longer in your eye... Regardless of the method, take the time to flush the eye with water for at least 5 minutes. If it is chemical, 15 minutes. Got safety glasses? Got eye wash station? *says the guy with the serious cornia scratch* B

I'd have to agree. Where ever my first, red pathy winds up, the jack will be in my garage, and I'll grab another one from a junk yard any time I can. If I had 2-4 of these it would have made dealing with jacking up my BIL's Mazda a piece of cake rather than a friggin PITA. B

I don't know the R50s, but with your fairly uninformative information, here is my guess: You have lost/broken/worn some stupid little plastic piece. You need to have someone pull the lever and watch to see what moves. Then you need to move the linkage (from the handle) until the the lift gate unlatches. If it unlatches, the problem is probably in the handle mechanism. If it does not unlatch regardless of what you do, the problem is in the lock/latch mechanism. I'm betting on something in the latch works. Experiment and describe it to us if you don't find the answer. B

I use a single wrap of teflon tape myself, but I make sure it doesn't hang past the first thread. The source of the leak, though, is the swivel joint its self. My workplace generously donated two new brass, solid barb fittings and an assortment of hose clamps. B

PoHo = Post Whore (Ho for short) B

LOL, I bought 3. 1 sits in the garage, NIB. The next is in the truck and the third I gave to a buddy, just because I'm nice like that... B

Glad you found it and hopefully it did just jump 1 tooth and nothing was damaged. Since you are in there, you may want to consider replacing the belt and tensioner just to play it safe. Again, do you know when the last time it was changed? How many miles on the truck? B

Correction. Do that regardless. It will make the re-assembly that much easier. B

Well, I changed all my belts today and noticed a little oil under the oil filter relocation mount. I wiped everything clean, checked the hose/barb fitting and started the motor. Sure enough, a drip. I tightened the pipe thread fitting and there was more leak. I put hose clamps on the barb section and even more leak. Actually 1/2 way between oozing and pissing. All I can think of is that the swivel pipe thread/barb fitting is failing (definitely has some play in it, it appears to be a crimped POS). I pulled the fitting and cut the hose 1/2 from the end. I'm pretty sure that we have these barb fittings at work so I'm going to borrow a couple and plumb it without this swivel fitting nonsense. Why did they think they were necessary for the kit? Just don't put fittings on one end of the line and let the customer install the barb fitting in the relocation mount and then put the hose on it... When I change my wheel bearings (in the air/no tire on) I will make sure there are no new leaks at the adapter mount and install some hose clamps for peace of mind, even though they are solid fittings. Odd though, I have never heard of anyone complaining about this before, or perhaps I don't recall. Three reasons I bring this up: 1) If this had failed somewhere remote I would have been screwed. Failing catastrophically would have left me stranded, regardless of where. I'd prefer not to spray oil inside the engine compartment until I noticed the idiot light. 2) Has anyone else had any issue with this, or is it just my luck that my kit included some crappy fittings? 3) Be warned!! If you have one installed, take a good look at it and be forewarned. If don't want to worry about it, you may want to change out the swivel barb fitting for a solid one. B

There are few aftermarket suppliers for the Pathys here in the US. The tendency is towards newer vehicles (still being sold) and the reality that most people who mod buy Toyota, Jeep or Dodge/Chevy. While there are a few companies who have addressed the US Nissan market, many don't see it as much of a market. It's kind of a catch 22; if they supplied the parts, many more people would buy the pathys and fix them up... We are working on it... B

So, they bought a caR?? B

Fair enough, but I'd just go with a flat rate or it's for free... Absolutely!! Don't bother monkeying with chains... Yeah, that's the other option... Why live there is my question... B

Maybe he was mistaken, but I remember being suprised when he named an american car company; I'm pretty sure he said Ford. I questioned him and he said the same thing. Just passing along what he said... Oh, wait. Ford/Mercury... Sorry, I almost missed that. Kinda distracted at work... B

When I bought the second Pathy, the PO threw in a (used) roof rack he never installed. It has Pathy cross pieces, but tracks from a Ford Aerostar, I believe he said. Claimed that the tracks were identical, or close enough that it didn't matter. I haven't had time to verify this. GG tape measure comment does have some value. Essentially, you can mount almost any roof rack you want. Just find one that looks likely/complete/good shape, then measure it against your pathy and you will know if you can make it work... B

Holy jumping baby Jesus, Batman!! Thats insane!! $180 for parking brake shoes? Someone needs a beating!! B

Possibly? I'd do as much diagnostics as possible before purchasing anything... B

The easy fixes are the best!! Amazing what a little (clean) oil will do for a motor, eh? B

Been there, almost exactly with my old D720; the manager told me there was 3/8" play in the ball joints. I went down and they did the 6' steel bar crap and there was virtually no movement. I had then stop before they tweaked something!! I told the guy just to do the work I asked for unless he wanted me to start a claim with the BBB for lying. I drove the truck another 6 years with the same ball joints, but they were loose by the time I sold it... I don't buy the 'do it just incase, cant hurt' mentality. Thats plain stupid. B

I'd unhook the battery, put the key in and turn it to run and step on the brakes a few times. (this is supposed to drain all juice from the system, I read it on some fanatic site somewhere). Have a beer, hook the battery back up and start it, let it get 1/2 warm and go for a nice mellow drive for the first 5 minutes, then start reving/stomping on it to see what it does. I'm sure you understand, but it is to make your ECU 'forget' and relearn the system. My guess is that you tweaked the timing too much and the brain was fighting it. No proof or backing in any manner, just a hunch. Hopefully I'm right, eh? Anyway, that is what I would do to start... B