Precise1

Good call. How is it so many 'law makers' have such stupid ideas? The problem is, they are detached from the needs of the average citizen... B

LOL The sign of failure is that you can hear the bearing complain over the noise of the running engine... Generally, you can limp about like this for a little while, but if/when the bearing unit fails (comes apart) you can lose your clutch entirely, not to mention have bits of metal slinging around. Not trying to scare you, it's just impossible to say how long it will last... As for price, you should be able to get a clutch kit (clutch plate, pressure plate, TO bearing, alignment tool) for about $200, maybe less. It's shop labor that adds up. If you have the means, I highly recommend doing it yourself and saving some cash. The R50 must be easier than the WD21 as there are no T-bars to mess with... B

Sounds like the old throw out bearing to me. Original clutch? It doesn't really hurt anything, it will just make embarrassing noises... Sometimes they still last a long time, sometimes they fail quickly. Better plan to replace the clutch, etc fairly soon. If I'm right, that is. B

Glad you got it worked out and thanks for the info... B

Run the ECU codes and see if it tells you anything. B

Sounds like you fugured the wiring at the clip. Time to check continuity, inspecting the wires, etc... B

Yes, this is what I recommend... First verify there is a leak, if you can't 'find' it, pull the line and inspect/replace it. Repeat until repaired. B

Yes, always check as much as you can before replacing parts. Do a careful visual inspection, then start the truck and spray small amounts of WD-40 on suspect areas/connections. If the idle speed increases, you have a vacuum leak there. B

Here you go Harv, this thread should have all the pertinent information for you to decide if the springs will work or not. You may have to contact the seller and ask for basic dimensions. Good luck and let us know what you find. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry119079 B

Well, I don't have an R50 (don't know/doubt the rear end is the same) and have never replaced rear wheel bearings on a pathy. Going out within 30k miles is not normal. Shaft bent? Did anyone ever curb shoot it hard on that side? As for input, it's always slow around the major holidays. Family, friends, events... B

I'm really sorry to hear that! I have always wondered about the reflex to swerve and wreck rather than just running into the person. I'm the same way, and it makes me wonder... I'm glad you are ok, that's what matters! The metal can be replaced as you are doing... With a little luck, you'll have a nicer, newer pathy to set up better than the last (learning curve). I love the idea of a trail rig!! If you can afford to do so, you have the perfect platform... B What lady??

X2 I'd google for reviews/comparisons... B

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Just quoting the FSM... I've never heard of people changing them when changing wheel size. B

Depends how you wheel, I guess. I don't believe I have ever stood on the brake and gas simultaneously, much less in a full traction condition, while off road... Without arguing about it, I'll pass on the burn outs and save the stress factor for wheeling. B

Nope. Never wanted to beat on the truck like that... LOL, you have a 1 legged pathy... B BTW, I deleted the thread double...

#1) Yes, that definitely sounds like a stuck thermostat!! The only other possibility is that the water pump impellor is damaged, but that is unlikely. #2) Possibly to all 3, just not enough info to guess. #3) You should be able to redo the top end for less than $750 if you do all the work, but then you have a well used lower end. I don't know how much time you have, but it may be worth putting in the low milage motor (if the rest of the truck is still in good shape) and then working on your old one. If there isn't any major damage, fix it and sell it for a couple of hundred... B

Just follow your nose, it always knows?? B

Slickie Poo, you been hitting the eggnog?? Hard?? I said... B

That's a place to start, but generally, you want to keep the Haynes manual in the back of the truck for when you have to take a crap in the woods or something... WTF, drive for 4 hours, pull over and check the brake fluid level? My ass, you stupid crack smoker!! B

I can't believe people are recommending poison!! Snap trap FTW... Put in a shoe box or something so if it doesn't die immediately it won't drag guts around the truck. Bait with peanut butter and raisins... B

A Chilton manual, 'cause chapter 2 is called "Engine performance and tune up"... B

HOLY CRAP!! Could be that the valve is just sticking/frozen due to the temp? I know I would be... If you do need to replace it, check out the classified section here; there are always people parting out trucks... B

Yes, it seems that you have checked virtually everything else. Is there good flow through the radiator? You may also want to consider a coolant system flush; you could have scale/corrosion in the coolant passages... B

Apparently your Pathy thinks so... "Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS): The vehicle speed sensor provides a vehicle speed signal to the ECM. The speed sensor consists of a reed switch, which is installed in the speedometer unit and transforms vehicle speed into a pulse signal." You may have to replace the speedo unit. Try removing the gauge cluster assembly and checking the connections and tightening the small screws in the rear (ground) first. B