Precise1

Ok, I thought it was a little more than that, but I can see how that would work just fine... B

1/16-1/8" should be ok, but I tend to lean towards overkill... Mount it in front of the radiator and off to one side. B

IIRC GrimGreg did this fairly simply himself by nailing up a frame/brace/support to hold the door in its proper place... B

Delrin would be a good choice, UHMW PE, Nylon also. If people are interested we can put this together. I can source materials, draw up a print and even machine the base plate... Do you have dimensions?? A 1" thick 1'x2' piece of UHMW PE is $60 and I'm guessing it is enough for 8 base plates... B

No. That is crap, hokey, temp mounting. Nothing that I would do on my vehicle!! Fabing brackets is best, but using a rigid perforated metal strip (don't know the name) is cheap, easy and 10x better than nylon straps!! B

Pictures?? B

I'd say so, although the cooler alone may not have made the difference this far along. I'm planning on looking into a tranny fluid filter system to try to avoid this as long as possible. Anyone out there run one? *starts searching* I hope so... B

That looks very nice!! I'd hate to ask how much of your time it took though... Regardless, you have a very nice set up that looks quite professional/custom. VERY nice work!! That said, I hate gauges in that location; all of mine are going down low and out of the way. I don't need them so badly that I have to have them in my face. Hey, to each their own.... B

Here is some info on the captive bolts (rear most two) for a 95 (Should apply to 90-95 4 door. M12x1.25 BTW. 150mm should work for the 2" lift, but 180mm will work for for both) I managed to uncaptive the passenger side captive nut and had to cut through the floor to get to it. Hopefully this won't happen to you. You can see where the spot welds were and the side tabs that aligned the nut, for the spot welding, I believe. This is what it looks like down in there... When I mapped it out, I was dead on one way and horribly off on the other. I'm still not sure what I did wrong other than I did it alone. Another set of eyes should help immensely. Regardless, here is an outline (black marker) of the ID of the body mount nut housing. The rulers are so you can extrapolate the bolt center for those of you that like to measure before cutting. Yes, it is a square nut, so bring your channel locks, vice grips and get creative!! The bright side of this is that I don't have to chase down the odd metric bolts; I can use standard bolts from the hardware store. The darker side is that I have to patch 2 holes in the floor. Oh well... I haven't opened up the other side, but I'm pretty sure the lay out will be the same. I post pictures of that side when I do it. B Hopefully this helps Ok, pictures of the other side... I had to grind the nut loose with a dremel and cut off blades. That was really annoying... Most of the way through the welds, I determined that a 13/16" socket can be hammered on quite successfully then torqued to break loose the remaining welds... I found a 1/2x13x7" grade 8 bolt was a perfect replacement fit. It might be short with a 3" lift, but I'll double check. B

While he does have a point, at least that there are threads here that can be found via search function (hint: use advanced search and read the usage tips), no, that's not helpful. I ran across this today, so here is another source. I can't give any input as I live in Kalifornia and have never had a motor that didn't need to pass smog; cams aren't anything I've messed with. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku B

Look in the classifieds/services section. We have a member who runs an on line parts department. B

I'll only engage 4x4 when encountering deep mud, soft sand, obsticles and when I want the gearing of 4-low. Saves wear and tear, not to mention with a rear locker and even LSD most of the time, you can get a long ways without 4x4. B

Yep, I agree with GG... Can you translate this into old timer speak?? B

^ Honestly, he is probably right. A few people have swapped in 4 wheel drive in a 2wd, but it is a lot of time, work and it's best to have a donor vehicle... Since you have done some work to your current one, perhaps you can get a fair price for it. Do an advanced search for a thread by Steevo, he did converstion I believe. B

Good to meet you too Bud!! I'm just sorry that I had just come home from work, you were on your way and that we didn't have a little more time to hang out or find the problem. IIFC, you have a manual tranny. If you were dumping that much oil out of the RMS, your clutch would not work correctly if at all. I'd bet on that. Check the valve covers (prob not the issue, just good luck) and the oil filter relocation system. It still seems odd, the even oil spray back; it is hard to tell since it is everywhere. If it was me, I'd wipe/wash down everything as best I could, go for a 5 mile drive and see if I could track it to its source. It's got to be obvious when everything isn't dripping... B

Damn, I'll take the nickel-chrome instead of ceramic coating to save $150 any day!! Nige, did you have any installation issues and do you have a manual or automatic tranny?? Thanks! B

X2 All electronic, and sometimes they fail. The speedo failed in my old 95XE, and the new 95XE had a failing tach. Thankfully, they are easy to swap, you just have to find the replacement unit. DO NOT go to the stealer for this item unless you have to ($), check the classifieds here or local junk yards for it first. B

Sorry, that's what I meant. Didn't hit the 2 hard enough I guess... B

I'd pretty much downshift at 2000-2200 rpm in 4 and 5th gear, felt like it was lugging a bit. Still, 25k miles on a rebuild should be nothing. No way should it go out already. Hey, if you are going to Mendo up 101, you should stop by my place on the way by. I'm about 5 miles off the freeway in Santa Rosa (easy to get to) and I'll be home by 4pm. Let me know if you are interested, even if it is just to say 'hi' for 5 minutes and I'll PM you my address and phone #s. B PS I got

4 year old tranny? How many miles on it? New/rebuilt or what? Could it be something like a failing U joint putting load on the tranny, making 5th gear sound louder? Where in Cali are you (I have a tranny) B

Sorry to hear, but that's quite a laundry list of issues to overcome. I can see why you didn't try to address them. Thats why I'll pay a more for a vehicle with few/no known problems. and use that as a base. As for underpowered, yeah, some people complain about that... Best of luck and maybe see you in the future. B

From Summit... Remember, you have a 1990. It has MPFI, not TBI, correct? These headers listed are for TBI (different smog plumbing)... B

I have a magnaflow cat back on my old 95 that I liked alot. It will get swapped over to the new 95 this spring along with a high flow cat when I install headers. I think Magnaflow is a good product for the $. I haven't been Dunsmuir (SP) or Shasta for a while, but I'm pretty sure I'm driving up to crater lake this summer... Sheesh, Shasta lake is low also?? Hopefully they will get enough snow pack in the next few months!! B

Dammit Simon, that was my next suggestion. "Ok, how about coating the hootus..." B

Look at the 4 one down... https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=367_266_350 B