Precise1

Yes, exactly. If they were the last ones who put them on, they have to deal with it. How long ago was it? Yep, what if you were on the side of the road and found out 1/2 of your studs were damaged? If I ever have a place put the wheels on, I tell them to snug them, put it in the parking lot and I'll tighten them. They usually argue they can't do that or how they use torque wrenches, etc. I just tell them I don't care and either they do as I say or they lose my business. B

No, sorry, perhaps I didn't say that right. The output shaft/drive shaft comes out of the center rear of the tranny and goes to the rear end. It has nothing to do with the transfer case... That's what is broken. The transfer case 1/2 way down on the drivers side is getting power to drive the front wheels. You would have to split the tranny case and see what is stripped/broken. B

Output shaft/gear is gone in the tranny. It's getting power to the transfer case so the input side must be fine. More than that, I don't know. I've never cracked one of these trannys or studied an expanded view... B

Thanks for sharing the info. No there are not a lot of diesel owners (at this site at least) but the more info we have the better. B

Glad you got it done!! B

Looks right to me. I always liked the way they literally hack the motors out. Cut/saw all lines, etc. :blink. Less than 60k miles with all the goodies on it, yes, that's worth it. (spare injectors, fuel rails/regulator, intake manifold, dizzy, alt, P/S pump, etc... thats a lot of $) B

Hey there Lyss. I'm pretty lousy with electrical myself, but sometimes there is no choice. This is what I would do... Rig up a inline fuse (2 wires to a fuse of the same amperage. Buy a holder or rig it with tape) Next, disconnect the power wire to the wiper motor (make sure to tape up the end so it doesn't ground out) Next tap into a power 12 volt power source with 1 end of your fused power line. From the fuse box power source is good. Apply the power wire to the wiper motor power (I don't know if it is a terminal, clip or what) Put the key in the ignition and turn it to run. The wipers may start working. If so, let it run for a moment just to make sure; the problem is in betwen the fuse box and the motor (check switch first and the wires for continuity (grounding out)) If theydont work, turn the key off and check your inline fuse. If it is blown, you have a bad motor, frozen/damaged linkage or something on that end. If it is not blown, check your connections and retry. The wipers should run or you should blow the fuse... You will probably need a volt meter, automotive test light (12 volt) or make 1 by taping 2 wires to a 12 volt bulb (tail light or something). It seems like a good time to learn; there are plenty of on line sites that explain basic uses quite well and many here are very good electrically also. I'm sure they'll chime in... B

I believe the dip stick tube was in a different place also. Was it Casey T who had this issue?? (perhaps I will have time to search for it later) B

Yep, check the ECU codes first. O2 sensor doesn't always trip a code though, buy since the CEL light came on, there must be something there. Also, O2 sensors can be checked via resistance and can be 'cleaned' by removing them and burning any crap off with a torch... B

None that I can think of off hand, unless maybe a few super modded motor/tranny swap owners. What is failing in your gauge cluster? You can replace the singular gauges. You need parts from the 87-93 year range. I'd start by looking here in the classified section, a lot of people are parting out trucks. I know this isn't the answer you wanted, but it may be of value regardless. B

Yes, I would, but I'm not ready to start with the parting out yet. I have 2 weeks off over X-mas and may be able to get started then. I'll consider you first in line for it when I do. B

LOL Yes actually, it is considered good manners to post/share the information. You know, for the next guy?? How about coughing it up?? B

^ My second guess, mainly due to it dying when you step on the gas. I'm not sure why it would die at idle though, as that is the least fuel draw and one would think there should be sufficient pressure. This indicates the regulator dumping pressure?? Pure guess though, this is not my specialty... B

You are welcome Bud. Yikes, I hear you about the license (I'm waiting on my own from Kalifornika) but I had no idea of the import confusion. It is obviously set up to facilitate the low life Canadian scum auto thieves and not the honest citizen... Sounds like you have a handle on it though and I hope it works out as smooth as possible. The Florida truck seems like a better deal as it is closer, cheaper and lower milage (?). 91k miles on the engine, how much on the body? Rebuilt or replaced pusher?? . Anywho, just thought of you when I saw this one. Good luck with the deal... B

It really sounds sensor related, but I don't know the TBI units at all... Crank angle sensor maybe? You have run the codes on the ECU and it's all clear? B

Calling all Dowsers.... http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/950410640.html 25 miles from my home... B

Yes, both mine in Cali have them and it is convenient. Of course, both my pathys were from back east... B

Exactly. Not only is it cheap and easy to use, it works... B

$750 for a motor with less then 60k on it? If it is legit, then yes, I'd say it is worth it... B

I'm afraid you have gone farther than my familiarity with pathfinders. As the previous member said, there were no diesels imported to the US and that is where most of our members are from. Fear not though, there are some members with this information; I think I remember someone covering it. Please try searching for it, and look in the TD27 section that we make just for all the lucky people that have them. That is where I am going to move this so hopefully it gets more attention from the people in the know. Feel free to PM or email members that seem knowledgeable. sw may be able to help. Anyway, tell the wife B said not to worry, we are working on it... B

I don't have headers, but my oil filter relocation adapter was a biatch to mount due to the limited space. Get creative to make sure it is snug/tight; I used bars, levers, wrenches; impossible to explain. I did have a problem with leaks just the other day so check out this thread... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20577 B

Dudes will work (west coast) This really is true. Change the oil, timing belt and don't overheat or over rev it and 250k-300k is normal life span. Some guy has one with 510k in it... You talk to someone like me who has a pathy in the driveway that is going to be parted out (frame damage). The motor has 132k on it and runs like a top. I know you are far away, but you get my point; NPORA is world wide, I bet there are members near you (relatively anyway). Another good way is look for one with a blown auto tranny, they are expensive to rebuild and iffy, so they can be had cheap. You can start it, test it etc then take it home and strip it, swap motors and wind up with all sorts of spare parts (1/2 shafts, starter, alternator, injectors, sensors, etc), sell what you don't want here in the classifieds (get some $ back) and have the carcass hauled away. Oh, there is a TSB about the manual tranny. The fill port is insufficiently low so sometimes some of the bearings are oil starved. If you haven't, change the oil; GL4 only and you want to put in 5.1 qts (liters?). More won't hurt, but don't go nuts. Either tilt the truck heavily to one side, or pull the shifter and pour the oil straight in to do the overfill. This is important. Lucas oil stabilizer is a good idea and may help with the grind... B

I see Simon took care of you very well. I agree with everything he said. The scheduled timing belt replacement is every 105k miles for 94-95 trucks so yes, yours will need to be done relatively soon. It's not worth risking it breaking... Just for your information, I recently purchased a 95XE in 90%+ condition with new starter, fuel filter, tires, radiator, ball joints, battery, rebuilt auto tranny, etc for $3,300 and I think I got a pretty good deal. This is in northern California so I don't know how much that info helps. Make sure to check for rust on the frame by the rear wheels and on the body under the rear seat. My two pathys came from Rodchester NY, and Pa respectively but fortunately were not back east long enough for more than light surface rust. Checking the VIN in car fax is a good investment in my book. Good luck, I'm sure you'll love the truck if you get it. B

No, you want it installed as if it was the mechanics wifes truck. Perhaps you don't trust him and that is fine, but don't judge the quality of work by what you perceive as a 'messy, unorganized'. To make such a call purely by a momentary visual image, well, that's just plain ignorant. Good luck though... B

Not hard at all for a machinist/fab guy. I have 2 brand new Pro Comp 1000 stabilizers in the garage. 1 is going on the new truck once I replace the CL with a hoohaa version, the other will be sold. All that's really needed is a drop bracket, swivel mount or the like. Why do you ask? B BTW, Howdy Headpeas! It's been a while...