Precise1

I just ran a string through the fire wall and held it in my teeth... B

Sounds like the FSM... B

IMPACT GUN!!! Most specs are in the 6-12 ft/lb range. ie, screwdriver/nutdriver and a twist of the wrist. You can easily tell if they are too loose and if you managed to strip one out by hand, you should never be allowed under the hood of your truck again... B

Well, I don't seem to have that issue, but then I don't dust the Pathy... LOL Ouch, but LOL... B

Have you tried just tightening the screws (with in reason)? The vast majority of valve cover leaks I have seen were fixed by another 1/4 turn of the screw as they were too loose... B

Ok, it's not the slide pins... The hollow of the piston means nothing. The mating surfaces do. Is there rust/corrosion on the OD of the piston where it meets the caliper? That could hang it up... One long shot that I have heard of, your brake flex lines could be compromised. If one 'balloons' under the pressure of braking, it may still keep vestige pressure on the piston when the petal is released. PSI in the line equates to much more force on the piston. Try bleeding them again? If you do have to disassemble/reassemble the caliper, remember to refrigerate the piston. The difference in thermal expansion can make it much easier to install. I was doing this with a tranny bearing set today. Bake at 250 degrees for 5 minutes... As for the save it for later, yeah, I agree, but I still have so much work lined up, I'll be wrenching into next year!! B

Spray some WD-40 on a paper towel and wipe down the plastic.... B

Yep, it's just hard to see which is good; your crank case is very clean. I pull the dip stick out and quickly hold it horizontal, and use light reflection to determine where the oil is/isn't. Well, only occasionally. Most of the time, I don't have a hard time seeing it... B

Slide pins, just like the front calipers? There is a write up on it somewhere, but basically you remove the dust boots and the slide pins. clean them well and sand/polish them smooth if there is any rust and corrosion. Do the same to the hole they slide in. Lube vigorously and reassemble. This is where I would start (fixes things 75% of the time) unless you are certain you have a sticking piston. If so, there must be a rebuild kit available, calipers are quite simple. Do you have rust/corrosion on the piston? B

I don't have heated seats, but this sounds like a switch problem to me. First thing I would do is examine the wiring and switch contacts for proper functioning. B

I'll add binding U joints for good luck... B

4 wheel low is your friend. You have no throttle/drive train lag like an auto so it is actually easier to hop up and over things. Yes, you have to use the clutch, but used correctly, it won't hurt it at all... B

It really depends what your time is worth, if you have a good place to work on/park it, if it is your daily driver, etc. You get the picture... The standard scenario is to replace the timing belt, tensioner (kinda like clutch and pressure plate), waterpump, thermostat, bypass hose and at least look at the front cam seals. The thought is why screw around with the old stuff when if you replace everything when you have it off, it generally will never fail on you during the timing belt change intervals. (which for you is 55 or 60k, that makes it seem extreme. Mine is 105k so I have no issue with it) I have also had bad luck remounting a fan clutches on used water pumps. They will fail soon afterwards if you have significantly changed the balance. You can mark and clock it but I'm not sure that's good enough. To each their own, but I lean towards PM. B

Well, all I said was I don't remember saying a WD21... The newest Pathy might work, but still, it doesn't have to be Nissan to make me $... B

Oh, hey thanks for the reminder!!! Grounding can be the issue here also. It's done via screws in the back of the assembly and all mine were 'not tight'. I had swapped the gauges regardless (donor truck) but this seems to be a common problem. Also, someone was selling voltage regulators, let me look... Yes, sometimes they just crap out. Someone thought they were interchangable with Sentra or 200sx or something. Crazyhayseed?? B Here you are. Worth a shot, depending on what you find replacements for/what your time costs... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20092

As a professional, I say Craftsman (sears). About the best 'mid quality' around. 90 day warranty. Get the vernier, not the handle window 'digital'. They work well (have had mine for years) but if the handle slips, the windows move and you are screwed. Happened to me twice in 12 years, still need to try to fix the last time, tomorrow... No, I totally disagree. HF sells crap, nothing I'd count on for torquing. I just bought their electric impact wrench for $42! If it works for the few times I need it in the next 2 years, fine. It may fail tomorrow. The hoe I bought from them lasted 30 minutes... I have never been picky about any of these and never had any real problems. Napa, Auto Zone, Kragens, Pep Boys (in that order for my taste) can supply any of them as well as another. The timing belt, I'd recommend OEM because I believe it is the one that comes with alignment marks which makes the job easier/more confident. Get an new tensioner while you are at it. Search here for more info; I haven't done the job but read the input many times... B

I think lockers would be needed, no? It wouldn't without serious upgrades/bracing. No, but with a 2 floor jacks or high lifts, jack stands and rigger rollers, I bet I could swap them out within an hour without breaking a sweat. I can say, IF I lived in serious snow country and had a little cash, I'd have a vehicle dedicated for them. It's your private snow cat!! I bet you could make plenty of $ to pay it off doing SAR work, snow plowing (it's got to work better than a wheeled 4x4) and making runs to places that are totally snow bound. Imagine having the 'Gaurenteed to get you there' cab service in Aspen, Vale, etc for the rich and idle when the sheit is snowed over! Sure, some of that can be done with a snow mobile, but if you can carry 4 passengers + luggage in a sealed, heated(seat), muzak'd cabin with cup holders... Damn, I may have to move to start my business!!! B

Your pathy goes 60?!? B

Keep it in the PoHo, not here please.... B

You can fry your alternator driving with a weak battery that won't take a full change; the alty never quits working to charge it... B

^ What he said. Where are you located? There are a lot of people parting out trucks, someone may be conveniently near by. Also, there is a bit of labor involved in swapping trannys. If you can do it yourself, you could save a lot of cash!! B

X2 B

I'd say thats a reasonable price, considering relatively lower milage, but then prices vary significantly depending on where you live. I'm assuming no rust?? Fix what it really needs and enjoy it; I'm sure you will be impressed. B

As you wish. It is now closed and we'll let it fade away... B

^ Agreed. If it still shifts,doesn't whine, etc you haven't destroyed it but may have shortened it's life. That said, do as you described and drive it. I bet it will last... B