Precise1

Describe 'longer to start'. Cranks longer? Doesn't turn over as fast? Splutters before it fires? What? B

Well, this is what I did for my 'new' 95 just a few months ago... Motor Oil: Motor flush with old oil/filter. Replaced oil/filter with the cheapest I could find. Drove 1 week (less than 100 miles) then another motor flush. Then Castrol synthetic/dino blend 10-40 with a bosch oversized filter (oil filter relocation kit). Manual Transmission: This one is an automagic but in the old manual: 80w-90 with 1 pint lucas stabilizer. Shifted a bit stiff when cold (30-40 degrees F) for the first 5 miles, then fine. Make sure to 'overfill' the tranny to 5.1 liters as per the TSB pinned at the top of the garage section!!! *IMPORTANT* Transfer Case: ATF dextron 3 Rear Diff: Lucas 80w-90 Front Diff:Lucas 80w-90 They claim it is good for LSD differentials and "contains 'climbing additives'" I didn't add any Lucas stabilizer since I'll be changing it out within 1 year/6k miles as a flush and to see if there is any metal particulate accumilated. Some is a good idea, but 50% seems excessively high. Yes, I like Lucas products. Other? YES!! Completely flush your brake system!!! Buy a quality brake fluid and drain what you can from the MC (hint:turkey baster). Fill and pump through at least once, then do the other tires as well. I'll assume you know the proper sequence. I am certainly not going to argue with the experts, but I generally go with the manufacturers specs (but 'quality' fluids), flush it once when in doubt and generally keep up on the recommended/sensible intervals. I have never had a tranny/rear end/etc develop problems, much less fail... I also generally don't beat on my vehicles. B

Mike, as I understand it, your leak is in the rubber/flex section. No, I wouldn't try to patch that at all. When the rubber is shot, that's it... IF it was in the metal line part as Pete suggested, then sure, a patch job might work for a long time!! So, where is the leak? In the rubber or the metal section? B

Exactly. In other words, you actually get to use 4 qts now when you change the oil, not 3.75 or what ever sillyness it was. Also, you can mount a Fram PH8A type compatable filter (I use the Bosch) that, judging by the size of the can, has at least 50%, if not 100%, more filter surface area. A win in both regards... B

The shroud for sure. Try taking off the front wheels and threading it in, not to mention it will give you better attack angles at clamps and whatnot. You do seem to have more than your share, but most of it should have hopefully been dealt with by now? How many miles on the truck? Did the PO just never maintain it? B

Well, the picture doesn't look the same, but the pictures aren't always accurate. As long as it is for the correct year, 3.0 liter V6 high pressure power steering line, I would assume that is it. Apparently you can have a new rubber section fitted on at a line/hydraulics shop, personally for $55 I wouldn't bother with the time and trouble. Hopefully it isn't as much of a PITA as the one I replaced in my D720 years ago. I had to remove a lot of things to get it in and clamped up without bending the crap out of it. B

Ok, I'm no expert on this but I recall reading an article that basically stated that octane requirements were primarily determined by cylinder compression ratio. That putting too high an octane into a motor actually reduces it's efficiency. This article basically states the same but notes the spark advance to offset the slower combusting higher octane gas. My understanding is that the ECU uses the knock sensor to adjust (retard) the timing when that condition occurs, that's why you aren't hearing any pinging or knocks. The computer won't let it... Therefore, you can only advance the timing so much, probably an unknown amount. My questions: is the MPG difference (you said minimal power gain) worth the difference in price? Does the engine run hotter. I look forward to your observations... B

Interesting! I wonder if they came on the VG motors and how tricky it would be to retrofit... B

Personally, I would use the high temp disk brake bearing grease as the rotors and hubs can get pretty warm. This will help keep it from migrating/puddling... I'll check to see what the manual says next time I go down stairs... B

^Exactly. And if your hubs are dirty/poorly greased/etc they may not function properly. ie, sticking in or out of 4x4. I recommend thaking them apart, cleaning everything and reassembling them with fresh grease. B

^X2 Thanks, I forgot about that... One of mine had the threads gall also. I'm going to have to replace it soon. B

Yep, that is exactly what I have (without all the silly keeper bits). They work fine, just remember, clearance is an issue sometimes so take a good look before you spend 5 minutes cranking on them... B

Check cap/rotor/timing, start looking for vacuum leaks (wd-40 can work well sometimes). How does it run at high idle/under load? What is the milage like? B

I doubt I'll get it, but where in NorCal? B

Agreed. Some of it is the members displaying the site, but the other goal is to attract new members. Obviously, this has nothing to do with $. The truth is the more members we have, the more information and experience we have, not to mention leverage when it comes to dealing with aftermarket suppliers. United we stand and all that happy crap. Corny but true... B

Yes, absolutely. You won't use them often, but sometimes they are required... B

I doubt it as the most commonly used metric thread pitch for 5mm diameter is .8mm m6x1.0, m5x.8, m4x.7, m3x.5, m2.5x.45, m2x.4, m1.6x.35 If the bolt binds within 1 turn, you have a dirty hole (shaddap), damaged threads or significantly wrong bolt thread. Also, if you have to tap a metric thread bolt,calculate the minor thread diameter (core hole size) by subtract 1 thread pitch from the bolt major diameter and dividing it by 25.4. Example:M6x1. would be (6-1)/25.4=.1968" M6x1. is the metric version of a 1/4-20. 1/4-20=.250" major diameter, .196-207" minor, .050" thread pitch. M6=.236" major dia, .193-.201" minor, .0394" thread pitch. Yes, I have tapped a few of both... B

Or "The pathfinder forum I help with" to the clueless (or "that time sucking web site") B

X2. I drove my first pathy for years without a functioning speedo and bought a second one that the tach was bad on. I combined to two working gauges in the new pathy. What you will need is the instrument cluster (or just the gauges themselves) out of a 94-95 pathfinder manual or automatic, it does not matter. Check the classifieds here for someone parting out their truck or go to the local junk yard are my recommendations. B

^ Quite... B

Ok, I'm going to guess M6x1 bolts then... Plane, car or tricycle, the same principal applies. The reason I asked, is that I can make you some carbide left handed 140 degree spade drills that work wonders for removing bolts, I just need to know the minor diameter of the threads... The heat/vibration/left hand torque often backs the piece out, and if not, it cores it well enough that removing what is left is like pulling out a heli-coil. Always use a roll (cold form) tap for this, cut taps just weaken what is left of the threads... B

Wrong, this is an interference motor. If your timing belt jumped, you can be smacking valves. When is the last time the timing belt was replaced? 87-93 motors state 60k mile change intervals. Did you run the ecu codes? Explanation in the "Garage/How To" section Have you checked it since? This was checked after the issue occurred? I don't know if you would get a full compression reading if the belt slipped a tooth or two... No, it is not. I don't think that has anything to do with the issue. First thing I would do is check the timing and the ECU for codes. Do you have a mechanic's stethoscope? A piece of tubing or metal rod can be used in a pinch... B

^ I hate that method!! While I'm only partially organized, I use the plastic drawer units also. Seems to work well enough for me, but I have been looking at upgrading the unit for something that could handle longer bolts, u bolts, etc. Something like this... http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXN...PMT4NO=54265558 B

Yes. See what you find, but remember, there are people here that can help, both with knowledge and parts. All is not lost... Unless it was done before, yes!! Remember though, the 94-95 models list the timing belt change intervals at 105k miles (170k km) so it's not the same as what happened to Jay. B

Straight pipe? As in no cat or muffler? You are joking, right? B