Precise1

So you prefer a blend of Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Vasoline?? B

Your English is better than some US citizens, so don't worry about it. Besides, my Sweedish is non-existent and I can only get myself in trouble in German. You have the Z24i, correct? Injected? I used to have a 84 D720 (king cab pickup) with the Z24 although I always believed it to be carburated. I had the same issue of the rising/falling idle and it was very annoying!! Funny thing is it only happened some times, more often when the climate temperature was warm it seemed. I never determined the exact cause, but was fairly certain it was sensor/wiring related. The TPS seems like a likely candidate so check all the wiring connectors first. Very few people here have the Z24 motor (I will ask for a section be made for it in the Garage) so help will be slow although many people may guess. Perhaps our member who was a Nissan mechanic has seen this symptom in a pick up truck before... I sold my pickup with 160,000 miles on it and the timing chain was loose. At idle you could hear it lash slightly and the timing would be unsteady, at running speed (especially under load) it ran perfect. The only time it gave me grief was when I had to get it smog certified. It would barely pass at idle and pass easily at high idle. It is rare for the timing chain to jump in these motors but if you plan to keep it you may want to replace it or at least the chain tensioner which may be the worn part allowing play in the chain. Now that I think about it, perhaps the loose timing chain is affecting the timing, telling a sensor to increase idle/advance timing to a point where everything is where it belongs but is reving high so then it drops the RPM??? I'm not sore that helped other than saying, yes I have had that problem also. Are you sure your exhaust plugs are firing? I had a distributor cap lose the outside electrode (no spark), and a solid state unit in the distributor fail ($280) that didn't fire the exhaust spark plugs. This may have been related to the idle surging issue... B

I think I can answer that. Lets say the spring sags .01" per coil when installed, truck stationary but sags an additional .01 per coil when driving over a speed bump. The spring has 10 coils so you have .1" sag from install and an additional .1" spring to absorb the speed bump. Cut the spring in 1/2 to 5 coils and it will only have .05" sag after install and .05" to soak up the speed bump before it reaches the same compression force. You would be shorter and stiffer (less travel to the same compression force)... Get it? I believe I said that correctly, eh Martin? B

TBI+33" tires+3"BL+SL+auto tranny=crap milage? B

Ahh, ok, I learned something. Sorry, this is my first auto tranny in 20 years... B

Clean the MAF... Drive train fluids/drag is also a good one as per GG No, that seems much higher than normal or desired. My old 95 MT runs at 2900max at 65+(31x10.5), and the new 95 auto is a bit higher at 3100 at 65+ (235/75/15). I'll have to check the gearing in both, but 3700 is WAY too high. Is your OD engaged/working correctly? B

We were talking about the harmonic balancer.... Isn't that the truth!!! Good luck and keep us updated, please. B

Ok, thanks for the explanation. The question is why would it keep reoccurring? A lot of vibration from the steering shaft? I know that heavy key collections are attributed to ignition switch failures, but don't know what the failure mode is. Perhaps this is it? B

Nice Martin!!! Thanks, I followed that perfectly. Damn, I have to get my ass back in school and finish with a ME degree; I'm wasting my time with what I'm doing... B

But true... B

Sorry, I missed this one. What was it doing (or not doing)? B

I just did an engine flush on my 'new' 95, then ran the cheapest autozone stuff I could find for a week, drained it again and have Castrol 10w30 synthetic/dino blend (best of both worlds ) in it now with a gigantor Bosch filter hanging off of the filter relocator adapter. I think that is all it needs... B

I'm glad you got it figured out and it was a cheap fix!! Good job. B

That sounds like a good place to start. I got mine at Autozone for $5, but it should be almost everywhere. Lucas is a well known brand... I believe the only link we have to a FSM is for a 94 which won't help you for this. I could have sworn there was one for TBI years, but perhaps it is defunct. I'll let you know if i find it. B

The tach is bad. I have no idea how to repair it, I just replaced mine. I took one out of my manual and put it in my auto, both 95. I suggest you persuse the classifieds for trucks being parted out, or perhaps someone will think of you on a junk yard run. You need the tach out of ANY 94-95. I have NO idea what they cost new and would rather not find out. Replacing the gauge is pretty straightforward. 1 hour job in my book... B

I just went ahead and spent the $25 or whatever for the 30 days subscription... I figure that's just cheap insurance and well worth the $. My truck had 20 records, all either emissions inspection, change of title or dealership service. Accidents or problems, it was clear. B

That seems close to what you are after. I don't think that is a high price; I bought a 95XE with the same mileage for $3300 and am happy with the truck/price. They show the VIN so CarFax it and ask about the autotranny/aftermarket cooler... Good luck, it IS pretty! B

Before your time, boy... Perhaps I could grunt work you into not posting for a while... B

This confuses me, as the engine idle would change with that drastic of a timing change. I'm thinking T1992 may be onto something... B

Essentially, Yes. LOL, I have done the same. Replace several things at once and never really determine what the cause was. These days I try to be more methodical, but sometimes available time, frustration, etc takes over... B

Wobbly Dizzy shaft? My timing was jumping about, not that bad though, and it was because the center dizzy cap electrode was gone and the unit was firing the cylinders via arcing across the gap to the rotor. Did the idle change when the timing shifted, as it should? Bad spark plug wire? Did you try more than one? Bad pickup/ wire on the timing light? B

I figured that, but at a lower output (30 amps by a 50amp alt and a 100amp alt) it required the same energy, correct? (assuming the same efficience rating) If so, it seems like running a hire amp alt is the way to go; only pay for the extra power when you use it... Yeah, I've ridden a bike with a little friction drive generator mounted on the front fender which powered a single weak light on the handlebars. I don't know what wattage (LOW) but you could feel the drag when you engaged it... *snort*

I can address some of this but I don't know the TBI systems well. Try using Lucas injector cleaner... Run the ECU diagnostic codes (especially when it is acting up). The directions are here... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21 No, I don't believe there are cheap injectors available. Good news is that yopu only need 2. Somewhere around here is a link to a factory service manual. It should help with the trouble shooting/testi9ng. Let me find it... B

Ok. So does an alternator with a higher output take more energy to spin regardless of the draw? I looked at your Ike thread TC and am glad you didn't have any 'real' problems. Yeah, I can see how the HHO experiment takes second/third/fourth place... We are looking forward to when you resume it though. Best of luck. B

Canadians... B