Precise1

LOL, been there with the fill plug. NEVER AGAIN!!! Also, I prefer a toothpick for aiming the nozzles, less chance of buggering them up. Ok, a new one I just figured out (on a 95 pathy). If the plastic shield for your instrument cluster is cloudy, has a haze or light scratches, apply rainex as per the instructions. I noted a solid 75% improvement!! B

Actually, on the '95 at least, I found there was no need to take off the clear plastic as it is clipped to a black housing (also clipped on). Merely unclip the black housing took the whole front off and the gauges were exposed. Undoing the clips took all the finger strength I could muster and broke several nails, even with some small screw drivers to help as wedged. These things are on tight!! I found the bottom easier to release and when they were all done, lifting up releades the top ones. Just make sure not to crack the clear plastic; th clock and odometer control arms are still sticking through it. Once that is off, the screws on the back are self explanitory. I tightened them all as they were relatively loose. We will see if that cracks the plastic or if I just made up for the last 13 years/100k miles of wear... I'll post a pict of things tomorrow, just in case it helps someone else. BTW, the tach from the manual '95XE is working fine in the auto '95XE. B

CV boots do not turn unless you are in 4WD, or perhaps if your autolocking hubs are stuck. I'd guess more wheel bearings or control arm/trailing arm (whatever they are called) bushings. Does the front feel sloppy, excessively so?? B

I'm reasonable sure this is not the issue, but couldn't prove it in a court of law. Unfortunately for this experiment, I have since bought another '95XE and have been swapping parts. The starter from the old truck will not be troubleshot, but will be removed, tested, disassembled and rebuilt (if feasable) and stored for future use (although I have a brand new starter in the new truck) so there will be no comprehensive conclusion to this poll. Sorry guys, it wasn't planned like this when I asked but I have to roll with current circumstances. For any of you that care, I think it's the solenoid.... I'll post more when I take it apart. B

^^ and ^ That is how you start. Get under it, grab, shake and wiggle things. Then jack it up and do the same. Generally speaking, anything that has play in it is less than ideal. Loose in step 2=problem area. Loose in step 1=definite problem. You may have to refine things to determine what the major problem is if more than one exists. Look at the front end and see how it works. Jack up only one side and do the shake/shimmy routine. Do the same on the other. Use a cheater bar when in doubt, not to force things too much, but to get a visual reference (.1mm movement over 1 meter=alot), it is easier to see... Odds are that there is more than one worn component, but look around, the results are sometimes suprisingly simple... B

Yes, but unless it's a design issue, what needs to be addressed is the cause of the excessive heat. When you turn rotors, its usually less than .5mm per side so the mass is not greatly reduced, but technically, you are correct. I just know from experience of turning rotors that up to a point, it is perfectly acceptable. Besides, you want a slight amount of warp/out of parallel; thats what helps back the pads off the rotors when you release the brakes. As long as you don't feel it in the petal, all is well. B

^ I agree other than the warping rotor part. They are cast so little or no internal stress, what warps them is heat. Heat from unsufficient braking power design, dragging calipers, heavy towing, bad driving habits., etc. You can turn rotors without harming them at all, if they quickly warp again, odds are something else is the problem. No worries, I didn't take it that way. It's all good Bud!! B

Ok, understood. You should not have any problems then, it is quite straight forward and you have a manual. As dagwood said, be sure to have some high temp disk brake grease and repack the bearings. I tighten them 'snug' by feel (no play +1/8 turnish depending on the lock point, it's not a fine adjust) and then check them again after 20+ miles of driving... I have had no issue with this method what so ever. Also, I believe the manual says 3 or 5lb of tightening? The first time I did the hubs, I used a 1 foot bar and hung a 5 lb weight from it vertically while tapping the rotor lightly to let it settle. It equals the same thing and was good for a few years before I repacked the bearings... B

From what I remember reading about this in the past, there is no promise that the vehicle will meet emissions testing... (Just memory, offers grain of salt) Certainly the best way to do it. Especially if you can do a emissions test with a free (or very cheap) retest if it fails. (I have done this in the past) That way you would have proven test data... B

Ok, there are a few different ways to handle this. First ( I don't recommend) is as long as there is no real play in the wheel bearings, just put new caliper pads on it and drive. Second, see if you can get someone (co worker, friend, inlaw, etc) that has some mechanical experience (that you trust) to help you. You don't really need a spring gage or indicator, they just help you be more accurate. Third, pay someone to do it. The fact that it's your daily driver and you don't feel confident limits your choices considerably... B Where are you located. There may well be a member near by willing to help for a 6 pack and some pizza...

It's a home video. Foreplay with the Pezinator... B

Ok, I'm pleased to say that it only took me about 15 minutes to remove the cluster assembly out of the old truck. I'm cautious and while I have only disassembled a few dashes, this is the first one that didn't seem to be designed and assembled by Keebler elves on crack. I expect the swap out tomorrow to go smoothly... Looking forward to being able to see what the automagic tranny is doing, and hey, I think I'll grab a few bulbs for good luck... B

Thank you very much!! My first Pathy's system was thrashed and disabled, while the new Pathy's works perfectly. Regardless of that, I know how often people have questions about issues with it. You have helped a lot of people out!! B

It seems to be a bit cheaper on their web site, what am I missing here?? http://www.purenissan.com/control_arms.htm I was looking at these; being a machinist, I'm certain they are the strongest design, don't know about the best though... I need to do more research before I buy... B

That is interesting and potentially quite useful!! Thats what I was hoping to hear. Thanks all, thats exactly what I needed!! B

Ok, sent it off to both addresses, just for good luck. You are welcome. Free to me, free to you... Helping out when you can is what we try to do here. B

First, what kind of backspacing on the rims. I'm fairly sure you want between 3.5 and 4" but the extra overhang may need less. Second, 7" rim to 12.5" tire is a bit drastic. Most people would advise against it and some tire places may refuse or just have a hard time with it. I seem to remember one member (Solid Snake? Trail Chaser? Can't remember...) running the same combo and saying he can air down to 15 lbs pressure and never lose the bead seal. Third, with only a few exceptions, the general rule of thumb for 33" tires is 3+3. 3" suspension lift and 3" body lift or you will have to remove fender flares, trim a lot, or rub like crazy. All said, it can be done but I doubt it will be bolt on and drive... B

Post or PM me an email address that can download 7 mgb and I'll send you the Automatic Transmission section of the Factory Service Manual. There is about 40 pages of trouble shooting info alone... Or you can get it here yourself. I'm pretty sure all the trannies are the same (I'm new to the auto tranny world, forgive me) http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9692 B

Ok, the Chiltons manual just describes the removal, showing pictures of pre-94 parts. The Haynes manual will be useful next time I have to take a crap. The FSM PDF gives a much better disassembly diagram, BUT it doesn't answer my question. From what I can tell, the tach/speedo/etc is all one unit, correct? I have a 95XE manual with the speedo failing and a 95XE auto with the tach failing. Is it possible to combine the two without being a circuit board engineer? I'm not wild about getting the cluster from a junk yard as the failure rate seems high and it probably doesn't help if it has been in an accident. I haven't found one on line yet with out going to a stealership. No one is parting out a 94-95 right now and I prefer to save as much $ on mods... Anyway, any input?? Thanks. B

Oh, sheit... That sucks, never spoke with him but seemed like a good guy. If you chat with him again, pass on best wishes from the family, or me at least. We miss ya Marcel, and not just for the skid plates... B

Thank you for the update, it really helps when someone else has similar issues!! Just an intake cleaning? Man, that must have been junked up BAD!! I'm glad you have it sorted out!! B

Well, how did it go, what do you think? B

Why did Marcel stop making them, anyone know? B

They didn't fix it. Duh... B

You need a timing light, other than that, it is simple. Just clip on the leads and shine the strobe down at the crank pulley slightly off to the passenger side. Mind the fan blades though!! It's best to check the distributor cap and rotor beforehand... B