Precise1

First, I agree with GG, the best way is to weld fill and redrill and tap. That said, I have made MIL SPEC parts for years as a machinist, and the standard procedure is to insert helicoils in all smaller diameter tapped holes in aluminum parts. Period. Before they ever see a bolt. I've never used them in this application (what torque are the bolts?) but I'd bet they would work just fine. B

I like it!! I have to question your driver's seat dyno though. I'm kinda with GG on this one, for $1300 I'm sure I could pull out more ponies than dual exhaust. Your math is impeccable... DUDE, it's a friggin 3.0 liter motor that tops out before 6k RPM!!! Unless you have done something significant to the intake (and cams?) more than 2.5" is probably just a waste of metal. You can hang 6" HVAC ducting and a fart can if it makes you happy, I just won't believe it runs better. B

COOL!!! Sorry about the headache, but at least it was a cheap, easy fix!! B

Huh, thats the difference. I don't touch the bolt head, no need to. Just like said, I just broke the counter nut loose, then turned the buttom nut with a box wrench. No trouble, bolt spin, damage, grief, etc... I just don't see turning a 10 minute job into a project. B

I paid a bit more than that, but it was 4 years ago with less than 110k miles and work just done on it. Of course, everything is more expensive in Cali. It's all relative to what you are getting. Don't be afraid to look it over real good and haggle!! B

Check out out Classifieds section, there are several people parting out trucks... I smashed mine good, and the needle is straight. The speedo registers 32 mph from 1-65mph, then falls to 0 after 70, so the needle could be missing for all I care. I've been driving by tach for years now. B

Bad idea if you are eyeballing for a certain height or tape measuring to make sure both sides are even. They will take a day to settle into position. (Not to mention if you lose count for some reason.) I adjusted mine a few times with nothing other than a 3/4 and 19mm wrench. It takes a little effort, thats it. LOL about the weight of the truck. Thats why they are fine pitched threads (M12x1.25). It's only .05" per revolution, just like a standard 1/4-20 bolt. Ever use a scissor jack, spring compressors, etc? Yes, a little effort, but they'll lift the whole car. Never had that happen... B

Sorry to hear that... It seems like the least he cold have done is comp you for some of the work you did. The good news is that now you have found something you like. Start saving and looking, you'll know the one to buy when you find it. As MY1PATH said, I've seen some tremendous deals!! Make sure to watch our Classifieds section!! B

Try bleeding the clutch hydraulics and check the slave cylinder/actuator on the tranny for proper function and travel. Other than that, no, not that I know of. Odds are you will have to pull the tranny, and replace the throw out bearing. Since you are there, you may as well inspect/replace everything else so you don't have to pull the tranny again any time soon. I replaced everything in the bell housing, including a resurfaced flywheel, for less than $300. Good luck. B

These should help, I'll drop in links when I remember/find them. Honestly, the search function would garner you a wealth of information. I have not swapped motors so I can not relate personal experience. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19168 B

NICE!!! I can't seem to find a cheap pathy worth buying around here, much less within 1000 miles!!! Starting to piss me off!! B

Both k9sar and mws have written up starter rebuild/reconditioning procedures. It doesn't seem too hard and worth the effort to try. Search for them, and I'll do the same later... B

If that is all that happened, it was the cops just taking the time to formally investigate and decide that what he said was the truth and no laws had been broken. If you shoot someone, generally plan to have to go make a statement or get grilled about it. I don't argue that... The thing about wounding is 3 fold: 1) They may then draw a gun and fire at you/your family. Boy, wouldn't you feel bad then? 2) If you wound them, don't be suprised to wind up an a civil suit which will cost you time, grief and $ even if you are aquitted. There is NO gaurentee what so ever that will happen !!! 3) If you kill them, they cannot (falsely) testify. The facts will have tospeak for him. Ok, that said, I hope I never have to shoot anyone. I'm, about 1/2 way through life and so far so good. BUT, if I am forced into the position of risking my life or those of loved ones, I'll do my best to make sure that assailant dies. No law suits, no stalking, no revenge. Just dead. What I practice is the standard double tap. First is for the head, second is torso. If the first one misses (I'm pretty good at them) then I have probably wounded them. If they don't drop immediately, I'll see how long it takes me to get to the bottom of the magazine. Only exception is if there is more than one, then they will have to share or if I have my .357 wheel gun, then it's just torso shots. Point is, shooting to wound is a losing propsition. Seriously. B

As a matter of fact, I'd want to turn off the electric fans @ freeway speeds all you are doing is fighting the higher flow direction.... Ok, there, you said it. Exactly!! If it really bothers you, install an aftermarket gage that tells you the actual water temp. Having driven Nissan trucks for the lasy 15 years, I have NEVER had an issue with one running hot, much less overheat. This is even down in Baja (115+ dgrees). If anything, they warm up too damn slow in winter... Know your actual temperature (not some arbritrary gage level) before you worry/change things... B Sorry, the D720 ran hot for a bit when the fan clutch was failing. Easy fix 3 days later...

Just a reminder, one of the best first steps of trouble shooting is checking the ECU for codes. A lot of the time it will dispay O2 (or other issues) and eliminated guesswork for the first item to be R&R'd. B

Sorry to hear Bud. I'm suprised that the dog didn't know better than to stay away from the tires! But then, my last landlady had 2 JR terriers. One was smart and shy, the other was stupid and aggressive so breed alone doesn't mean much. Best of luck with the new dog, time will heal... B

Wrong order, even the cops will tell you that... B

LOL, $35 for the whole assembly?? Thats not worth messing with! Order 2, this one may go out in another 10 years... B

Karma also... It is possible. Best consider it... Be prepared to 'defend' yourself. I hate asshats like this, it's hard not justify wasting them after a certain level has been reached... Best O luck DJD, I'll help if I can. B

I have no idea if the bearing will come with the pulley, I'd guess not if it isn't stated. You shouldn't need a new pulley, just bearing it rides on. Take the belt off (cut it off if it is damaged) and then remove the idler pulley assembly, you can drive with out it. Take the assembly apart to determine what you need to order. It's only take 1 day max longer to order parts and you could save some $. B

Ok, I can see that. Good one... B

Yes. The idler pulley is on a bearing. Your bearing has frozen. You have to buy a new one, remove the idler pulley (and mount? unsure) via the one bolt in the center, remove the old bearing/race assembly (it may be pressed or corroded into place), install the new bearing/race assembly and bolt it back on. I've done this before on my previous Nissan D720, but not on a Pathy. The process should be VERY similiar; it was fairly easy to do... Belt tension: the manual will say something like 1/2 of movement in the middle of the longest free run of the belt or something, I'll check the manual when I get home. Rule of thumb is "tight enough so they don't slip". Too tight, and you start wearing out bearings and bushings. I'll usually set the belt tension, test it out briefly, adjust it as necessary and then leave those tools in the truck. If one starts slipping a few days later, it takes 5 minutes to adjust... B

Yeah, it happens sometimes... As per your request, this thread is closed. B

Seems to me there is an issue with their work then... I kinda glossed the part about the infant (my bad) and you are absolutely right... LOL, it's not like we ban your IP address and erase your user name when you cease driving a Pathy. Fanatics we are, but please!!! Best of luck Bud!!! B

I'd buy the line are replace it, but thats not what you are asking... Since it is a pressurized line, the options are limited. This should work fine though. Take a thin strip (just wide enough to cover the hole) of electrical tape or something similiar and wrap it around the fuel line, stopping the leak. Next, clean the area around the tape well. Get some JB weld, epoxy or anything else of that nature that is relatively quick setting and chemical resistant. Cover the tape and the clean area of the fuel line (all the way around!!) with a unbroken layer of the goo you decided to use. Let it dry, then fire her up and check for leaks. It should last well enough to drive it to a shop. *looks forward to hearing other ideas) B