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Precise1
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Everything posted by Precise1
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They are from Idaho, what do you expect... (Friggin fruitloop!!) B
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Yeah, good point Martin, GG. I think I was just feeling my oats when I typed that. My old dune buggy with dual 40mm carbs, 1776cc motor with straight pipes ran so clean, the smog tech tested his sniffer on another vehicle because he thought it wasn't working. The baja wouldn't pass 'visual inspection' but ran cleaner than most anything else. Sheer idiocy... B
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Jebus Dude, just learn to drive a stick!! It's a skill you need regardless and it's not like it's THAT hard!!!. You just don't get to hold your latte all the time... Oh, the Toya V6 can have head gasket issues, sheitty gaskets were used sometimes in all factories. No way to tell... Otherwise, good vehicles. B
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Agreed, CA is asinine about modifications, but I think that's mainly to discourage 'smog cheaters' which, frankly, I am for. BUT if it is a system that CLEARLY has SIGNIFICANT benefit, I'd happily fight with them over it... B
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Is this Pathy on Craigslist for 800$ worth it?
Precise1 replied to NaturaTek's topic in General Forums
First time I have heard of that kit, but then, I don't buy automagics... All I ever hear is tales of woe of autotragic trannys that fail, rebuilds that don't last or cost a fortune, etc. Most people you know don't post here? B -
Decrease, I hope you mean... As for CA smog, who cares. What specific stamp, it's an owner modification... I have this system and the car passes. Test the emissions, who cares how I got it there. Not factory equipment? I'd happily take them to court over that... B
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Ok, this is just glossing as there are soo many things, some maybe inter-related... Carbon buildup around my exhaust Occasionnaly: Idles like a 2 cycle and puffs black smoke... O2 sensor, MAF sensor. There are threads on cleaning/changing them. Try to search (advanced/more options) and if you have no luck, we'll find them for you. I am losing coolant very quickly, cannot find a leak (Drains in ~ a day)... No leaks on the ground? No water in the oil? Could be a blown head gasket and it's going out the pipe, hence the black exhaust? Kills sometimes when put in reverse... Auto tranny? Faulty switch/auto brain? due to low, erratic RPM?? RPMs drop and raise back up... Sounds like a vacuum leak. Selectively spray around vacuum lines with WD-40. If RPM increases you have a leak there. Also check the functioning of vacuum diaphrams (disk shaped deals at the end of a vacuum line). You may need a manual to do that. Kills occasionaly while I am driving... Need better discripion of symptoms/situation. Has difficulty (struggles) to shift at times... Back up to reverse dying+old fluid, overheating (install aftermarket tranny cooler!!), filter clogged? All are possible. I'd check the engine sensors, vacuum first to try to get it to run right. Water leak, I don't know. Have coolant system pressure checked, then check the oil before starting, then start. If it leaked down into the cylinders you should get major steam and stumbling. Good news would be carbon removal... Like I said, this is all recorded here, if you can't find it, holler and we will... B
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Allow me to state that I am undecided on this, but I have done no practical experiments. I have investigated it in the past and I am glad that someone is now. Regardless of the outcome of Trailchaser's experiments, we will all learn something. Yes, that is a text book physics answer based on conversion/transformation/application of energy that makes many assumptions and estimates. It is a good place to start, but does not take into account real world application (the big picture). Let's address some of those.... TC's version is 20A@12V (In DC 1W = 1V x 1A) so that's 240 watt. 2.4Wx.23HP=.55HP so we'll round up to 1HP. That's .67% of a stock motor. The Pathy is NO powerhouse, but if I lost 1hp, I'll be damned if I would know... I have not found #'s as to the desired HHO production volume per , but we will assume that TC's version is adequate for this example. The point to the HHO injection is NOT to use it as primary fuel, but to enhance the efficiency for the current fuel (gas or diesel) AND reduce emissions. Blah, blah, blah... Taken from here, only because of the independent studies. http://www.hydrogen-boost.com/hydrogeninjection.html The whole point is to get the gasoline to burn faster and more completely. NOT to burn the HHO for it's fuel density value, but to increase the efficiency of the gasoline combustion. It does seem to work according to some research. Lets say it increases the current efficiency 10% (which is a low estimate from what I have read)... Here is an 11% efficient gasoline engine, increased 10% makes it 12.1% efficient. That's a realistic increase, and may get you from 18 to 20 MPG... Not a huge deal, but lets see what TC realizes. Then there is the side of the significantly reduced emissions (a sign of better combustion). I will seriously consider setting up something like this on my 78 VW Bug FI as it is challenging to pass CA smog. My point is that text book theory doesn't address whats trying to be done here and it makes some sense when broken down. The Wright brothers couldn't fly, the WW2 German jets were eye openers, the guy who invented the turbo was crazy, etc. I look forward to the results of the guy that IS doing it... B
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Holy Crap!! That was just a 1/2 mason jar explosion and it did that to your hood?? Yeah, I'd call that a solid brain fart, but I can see how it happened. Well, I doubt you'll do anything like that again, regardless of the visual reminder. I'm glad you got away with a 'simple lesson' and nothing else. B
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How is the negative cable connection at the ground end (block or body)? Do you have a fusable link on the Positive cable? I'm no help with the alternator wiring... B
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I can't recommend a shop ion your area, but 10 years ago I had a dealership rebuild the tranny and replace the clutch,etc on a D720. Total cost was about $1200 and I had a warranty. If you don't get any solid recommendations, you may want to consider the dealership route. I like your mentality... Oh, MZ, QUIT YELLING!!! B
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Very tiny fluid ( Oil ) leak, really irritating me...
Precise1 replied to prginocx's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
You should let the crack pipe cool off occasionally... B -
Sheit, I can't even find my manual right now... Calling mws (Martin)!!! B
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Fuggly??? B
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I understand now, sorry for being so thick. I'd say you are on the right path... Of course I was implying a soldering iron, one would have to be foolish to play with naked flame by the gas tank!! B
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Ok, search. Seriously, search for it. There are MANY in depth threads on this. If you can not find them, let me know and I will find them via search and explain what functions/parameters I used. B
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Try this and see if it still works... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0&start=0 I'm a little confused as to what the problem is or what you are trying to do. Check the sending unit for function? Pictures are a great help... As for the soldering, yes, that should be fine near the tank. B
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Hell yeah!! That's an urban assault vehicle if I ever saw one!!! (there's a green 70's Caddy like that around here, but a Benz?? A coat of paint and it's good to go. One more time, Hell Yeah!! B
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I want to see the front end and know if it has leather and AC... B
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Is this Pathy on Craigslist for 800$ worth it?
Precise1 replied to NaturaTek's topic in General Forums
Like you said yozsi, the automagic tranny is failing. It it expensive to 'rebuild' and even then, 1/2 the time they don't last... If it was local, I'd buy it in a heart beat, just to swap in my 130k mile motor and MANUAL tranny... To buy with hopes of a good deal and just fix the tranny, never. Odds are it will be expensive grief. B -
I'm glad for the 'easy' fix. WTF, where do you get batteries? I have never gotten a bad one and I've bought dozens... Inspections meaning smog? If so, I hope the air filter is new and the oil was just changed (it makes a big difference)... *crosses fingers* B
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I'd guess that you are fine on the flats, open road, constant speed and light gas pedal foot in OD indefinitely. Thats the way I'd treat my car unless I felt something troubling, but I doubt it. The trailer isn't that much more of a load once it is rolling and wind resistance is low due to the tow vehicle taking the brunt. A noticeable rise may want a downshift nearing the top, but that more throttle/speed related. I wouldn't worry at all... You do have an aftermarket tranny cooler? If not, it is HIGHLY recommended to install one, towing or not... B We'll wait on the sticky thing to see if you blow your tranny or not... JUST KIDDING!!! Thanks for chiming back in!! Give us some more feed back and it will be permanently recorded.
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Oh, this is for cars... I got confused, sorry!! B
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There is this... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19042 Then there is my biased opinion. Unless you plan to use it for a trail rig or it's SUPER cheap, get a 4 door. It's much more handy and probably has MPI, not TBI which sucks for power, fuel economy and trying to pass smog tests... If you get a 94-95, the timing belt is every 105k. B
