Precise1

Yep, thats what I was going to say. Check the basic tune up parts, then check the ECU for codes. I just had a distributor cap cause me grief... B

Err, I can email you the section. May help?? Will send now... Merry Xmas?? B

Lemme check my 95 FSM .pdf's... BRB Mr P!!! B

Agreed... Let me see what I can do. ADMIN!!! ISLE 3!!!! Ok, it's covered. I have some pull around here... *snort* Love the avatar, BTW... B

Hmm, sounds like the belt was glazed. Cool trick though, never heard of silicone as a fix. *files the information* Yeah, power steering generally squeals when turning the wheel, but the alternator can do it all the time. If it comes back, take the time to isolate the cause so you don't wind up stuck somewhere. B

Ok, after doing much research and finally getting time to start working on the truck, here is a lesson on 'Start with the basics' or KISS... I had checked the battery and ground:ok Replaced the inline fuel filter:ok Yesterday I started by checking the timing. It was close, a little retarded but not bad. It was jumping around a little bit though. I pulled the #1 plug. A little used, but good gap and color so no worries there. Then I pulled the dizzy cap. Dirty and corroded with rust and ash under the rotor which had burn marks on and around the top contact as the photo shows. WTF? A look at the cap showed crusty pins and NO center graphite contact. As a matter of fact, the contact support cone was burned away into a crater with only the spring showing and that is recessed a bit. With the approximately 1/4" tall cone and 1/4"+ graphite contact, I can only assume that there was a 3/8-1/2" gap between the electrode spring and the contact point on the top of the rotor. The spark was arking across this gap to fire the cylinders... Damn, who says Pathy's aren't die hard runners?? I had a VERY hard time removing the rotor, it was corroded onto the dizzy shaft. Trying not to pry too hard and mess things up, I broke part of the rotor plastic upper with leverage, but then noticed a crack down in the shaft body and was able to pry the plastic off leaving the metal core adhered to the dizzy shaft. This did not budge with pliers, even after rapping it a few times to try to break it free. Not wanting to pry on the shaft, I tried heat instead. WARNING!!! The zinc alloy (or whatever it is) of the rotor core heats quickly and will start to bubble and melt under the heat of a propane torch. Just as I figured it was worth starting to pry on, I noticed it was melting and deforming. A quick twist with a screw driver bent and pulled it right off. I put a block of steel I keep in the freezer in the top of the dizzy shaft to cool things down so it didn't degrade any seals/whatever down there, and when it was cool, sanded the corrosion off. I installed the rotor and cap and fired her up. Today when I drove to work, I noticed that the start/warm up/idle was smoother, acceleration was better with no hesitation/stutter at any time, even on the way home when it would before like after stopping at a store. Who'da thunk it!!! By spending $30 on one of them new fangled physical contact electrode distributor cap and rotor units, I think I gained 15HP, 4MPG!!! Will technilogy ever cease to amaze me??? NO !! B Hmm, can't seem to upload the photo and to busy to mess with it now... Maybe later...

Cool, glad you got it figured out!! Bah, I'm fairly handy, and I don't hesitate to ask about things. All to often someone knows a trick you dont or a suggestion to try that you didn't even think of. NO one knows it all, all of the time... LOL at the recovery requests. Do you have 'who can bury their truck the most' contests?? B

Er, I had planned to make some for people, but was over ambitious. Ability is not the problem, just the time. If we get a list of people who are interested, I can make it a priority. There was a thread once, I'll have to look for it. I know 88 used thick rubber, but the machinist in me cringes at the idea... B

DOH!!! I know where you are comming from though. BEST OF LUCK!!! B

Ahh, cool. Thats what I get for going on hiatus, eh?? B

What belt is it thats squeaking? It could be that the power steering fluid is low, the alternator bearings are going out (I've had one sieze on a different car), etc. Generally speaking, you don't want to overtighten the belts or you can prematurely wear out components. I don't have my manual infront of me so I'll just go with rule of thumb. 1/4-1/2" total of belt movement up and down on the longest stretch of belt (lift and push it down) is generally right. With out disregarding this standard, tighten the belt incrementally (tighten, drive, tighten, drive, etc) until it stops squealing or until it is obviously overtightened. If it is overtightened, you may have an issue with a component. Once you have the tools together and have done it a few times, you can adjust any belt in a few minutes. I've done this at the store parking lot or before leaving work... You can loosen the belt and check the component it drives for a tight or chunky pully rotation. This usually means bearings are going out. If the belt is glazed and/or the pullys have build up from the belt slipping, it should be removed as it will allow a normally correctly tightened belt to slip. Some meduim grit sand paper on the belt and the same or a wire brush for the pully's will remove residue and 'resurface' it. Lastly, there are belt dressings you can buy. One old trick is as simple as a bar of soap, but I don't know if helps it grip, or just lets it slip without squealing. Try some of these things and get back to us. Good luck, it shouldn't be hard. B Oh, it could be your idler pully (top center) bearing is going out. I know mine is a bit crunchy, but I just plan to take the belt off as my AC system (the only thing that belt drives) doesn't work due to parts missing...

Well, at least you got it figured out. Between a useless plug and a leaking injector, I'd say it should run rough!! Odds are she'll keep purring for years. Did you know that you are neighbors with Slick? She's in Mantweaka also (as she puts it). B

LOL MZ!! Err, just thought, could the slide pins be corroded enough where they don't leave enough caliper gap even if the pistons are totally depressed? I think so, but my mental picture is flickering and has a lot of static right now... B

Um, I'd rent a Uhaul (or whatever) truck with a car trailer, get the truck home then look at it/deal with it. Are you SURE the hubs are bound in 4X4 or did the guy not jack up the front end, put the truck in 2W drive and spin the front tires backwards??? If the hubs disengage and the T case is in 2W drive, neither the driveline or the CV's spin, correct? Perhaps the mechanic doesn't know this? Why else does he think the driveline must be disconnected? Something is not jiving here and I think it starts with the front, rear, left differental mechanic. B

If he drove the pistons out too far (or was not careful), they may be cocked somewhat and binding. if he continues to force them, he could damage them. He needs to check if the piston end is parallel to caliper bore face. Measuring with calipers would be the right way, but careful eyeball may show it. He would need to press in the highest point first, just until it budges (or close the bleeder and press on the petal, but this risks shoving the piston completely out). Using 1 C clamp to depress the piston, one needs to put in a piece of metal or wood and center the clamp in the CENTER of the piston. Make sure the bleeder is open by stepping lightly on the brake and making sure fluid comes out. Corrosion/crap around the exposed OD of the piston that will not allow it to be depressed all the way. This would have to be carefully cleaned off (brush, sand paper, cleaned VERY well). He should be able to tell how far the pistons should be able to go. Wrong brake pads, too thick?? Thats all I can think of now. B

^What he said. It's always best to have an idea of whats needed before going to a shop!! To do it yourself, there are a few other factors. How experienced are you, do you have the right tools and a good place to work and how long can you afford to have the truck down if there are unforseen problems? Hey Earth, didn't you do an experiment with some grease for poly bushings? Any info for us?? Am I totally clueless and asking the wrong guy?? B

So you fixed it by asking questions on NPORA??? HOLY CRAP, is this site powerful, or what!?!?! B

Well, I got home late and it was getting dark when I started poking around. I prefer not to trouble shoot in the dark as it is too easy to miss something... I'm tired and lazy too. The intake tube looks fine and I cleaned that MAF 2 years ago (<12k miles) but it cant hurt to be done again. It's my daily driver, but rarely sees more than 20 miles a day. No obvious cracks or loose vacuum lines. I forgot to mention yesterday that when I was doing the diagnostics and I had it running, at one point the CEL would come on right when I first touched the gas petal and would stay on unless I let off or pressed it slightly more. I wish it would just give me a damn code!! Hmm, I didn't think about cleaning the throttle plate. Good one. I somewhat suspect suspect the O2 sensor, TPS or MAF, in that order. Tomorrow should be dry and I'll try to get to work early so I have some day light time. Thanks for the input, I'm off do so some research. B

Ok, first off, YES, I am searching!!! Just a LOT of threads to pick through with our glorious search engine... 95 manual with 128k. Drove it for 3 years/20k miles without a problem, haven't touched anything under the hood. It was tuned up 4 years ago (PO) and passed Cali smog last year. For the last month or so, I would get an occasional hesitation, almost always only in first gear when first getting rolling, and only then when warm or warmed, parked briefly, and restarted. No biggie, just annoying, feather the throttle and it would handle. It's been getting more frequent, sometimes affecting second gear shifts. Today it was worse, hard to keep running at low rpm, blubbering on attempted acceleration with the same effect shifting to second and third gear, even after shifting, but seems to run fine 2k rpm+. It feels like a fuel issue (too much or too little) but I won't swear thats it... I have changed the inline fuel filter 2 weeks ago, thinking that may be it. Nope. Battery has 12.4 volts and cranks strong. I ran the ECU codes several times. Mode 3=55 every time(NP), Mode 4 said it isn't the TPS (was my guess). I will relocate the ECU tomorrow so I can do the real time diagnostics on the way home (hope I make it). I will check the usual: Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, vacuum lines, exhaust leak b4 the O2 sensor, MAF... Then I get into wiring (gods I hate that!!). Anyone have any experience with something like this? Any info/tidbit/suggestion I don't know or may be missing? Thanks all !! Of course, this happens in winter with a week of rain forcasted.. B

Oh, BTW, I'm moving this to the Garage section. Thats where it needs to go. (wonders why it hasn't been done before...) B

Hey Dowser! I don't have the NPORA links on this computer, but there are a few decent threads with the info and links to other sites that supply the info here. Sorry Bud, but do a SEARCH. Seriously, most of what you need is here already. Ok that said, like 88 said, dana 44 fits the best, is the cheapest and most realistic. Not to mention more than adequate. I believe it is the 1984-1987 jeep wagoneer front axle that fits the best and is most easily converted to the chevy/nissan lug pattern and comes with disk brakes, unlike the early broncos. I plan on going with leaf springs for the simplicity/cost aspect. CONFIRM EVERYTHING I JUST WROTE!!! I'm sure it's close, as I need to do the same thing or get rid of my Pathy but I'm running on 1 year memory here... Get back to you later about this. B

Yep, leaking from the Y flange. Don't feel alone... Here is a good thread about it. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0&start=0 B

Um, yeah. I pretty much have to agree with you.... Fortunately I'm a pretty good healer, probably from having all the first hand experience over the years. There doesn't seem to be any bone/joint damage, the bruise is mostly healed, the split is completely closed and it's not numb anymore. There is a knot of scar tissue and it is quite sensitive, but I think that will all fade away. Now, if I could only stay away from hammers for a while... Thanks for the thought, Bud!! B

Ok all of that said, replacing the U-joints isn't very difficult (other than maybe breaking the old ones loose) or expensive (I paid $30 for 2 life time units from autozone) but can be challenging if you do not have the right equipment or a good place to work. Patience is key and try your best not to damage the journals that the bearings press into. If you are in a rush, don't have many tools or uncertain, you may just want to take the driveshaft somewhere reliable and have them do it. You'll be paying mainly for labor, but they'll get it done much faster and hopefully, correctly. Experienced people may find this write up tedious and unnecessary, but I wrote it mainly for the noob or youngun' who could benefit from some information. After all, we weren't ALL born mechanics... After changing the U-joints, some of the driving vibration (that I accredited to my damaged front end) went away, clutchwork/shifting is smoother, my clutch throw out bearing has ceased it's occasional barking when cold (replaced 3 years ago; damn, I hope it hasn't been damaged!!) and the rear end slew I could feel when accelerating in a turn 1st or 2nd gear is noticibly less (the rest I believe to be tired bushings). If you feel any combo of these symptoms, take a few minutes and check out your U-joints. First, try simply rotating the drive shaft back and forth by hand. If you feel clunking/play at either end, try to isolate/imobilize the other side of the U-joint connection (in gear, parking brake on, watch for any rotational movement that is visible). It will become apparent with 5 minutes of futsing. If there is any real play, odds are they need replacing... Second, jack up the rear axle, start the motor, put it in gear and let it idle. Look. If there is any twisting, shaking or noise from the drive train, even if there isn't much rotational slop, they are probably binding. Odds are they need replacing... This is something that is much easier to deal with on your own schedule than if they start to bind some day. I was lucky, it occurred 1 mile from home on a friday after work. 2 weeks before could have left me stranded 200 miles from home on a weekend. Good luck!! B Oh, grease them, just for good luck...

Ok, the thumb pulping occurred when I was working on the front U-joint, second in line. After I had finished the rear one on sunday afternoon, I installed the driveshaft with the idea that I would do the front one the next weekend. The rear axle was on jack stands, I started the truck, put it in gear and looked underneath. The rear end of the tranny was wagging back and forth more than I would have thought possible. Ok, no driving until the front one is replaced. Much to my suprise, I learned that it was the primary source of the failure. When I drove one cap off, there was a shower of rust and bits of needle bearings. As you can see, there was only one dry journal, but it was TOTALLY dry!! I know I have greased the U-joints twice in the 3 years I have owned the truck, but for some reason none of it got there. I haven't had the time to determine if the grease channel was not properly machined, blocked or whatnot. B