Precise1

And that Sir, is the key. You have built a beast and gone farther than most would or want to. Just a front SAS is a bit easier, but is still not for the unexperienced. I personally, applaud their efforts. B

So, no other welders out there with input? No one ever use a Clarke?? B

*grunt* Good point. I'm going to have to reassess this a bit. I was still hoping for a review of the Clarke unit though... Thanks. B

Thanks guys, but I was hoping for input on the Clarke unit. Agreed GG, parts are consumable and needed. Still, it seems like I should get a basic MIG (with parts available) that can tie into the Handy welder and have everything covered from the get go. Any one esle, feel free to chime in!! Trailchaser, check your PM's... B

As mws said, condition and service records AND MT!!! Have they both had their timing belts done? Every 60K for the 93 and 105K for the 95. All else being equal, I'd get the 95. Newer dash, don't have to do the timing belt nearly as often and better resale value. Charcoal would be nicer than white, but then color is the last consideration for me unless it's "Screaming Banana" or some such horrid thing... B PS. I bought a 95XE with 108k almost 3 years ago for $5700.

I could swear there is a write up on this, inthe Garage/Tech forums I think. Did you try searching? B

No problems what so ever?? Just a guess... I HAVE NOT installed one, but I doubt I would hesitate to. Bosch makes good parts... B

Yep, I'm backing mws... The slowest company I ever worked for was 3M; huge and midwest. I tend to look for smaller companies, 50-500 emploies, to work for. Big enough to be stable and have benefits and room to advance, but small enough to be responsive and appreciate key employees. I'd argue that most people in Cali in the smaller companies work harder/longer/multitask more than other places. I could be totally wrong, but I base that on all the out of state sloths I have worked with. *shrug* I know that I'm usually waiting on others and I run my own department in a company of 60ish. B

Ok, time to resurrect this thread. I need a welder. I rent so it HAS to be 110V. This is for occasional personal use and to learn with. While I don't mind spending some $, common sense tells me to stay reasonable. I recognise brand names are good, but I specifically have a question about Clarke welders. Weren't they Clarke American; are they not American any more? I had thought they were a decent unit, not top of the line like Miller or Lincoln, but not K-Mart quality either. This is a break down of what I have seen, with about the best prices I could find maybe 10% lower. Millermatic 140: Good name with handy autoset and manual controls, smooth start and tip saver with reset on the torch. $640 http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p003460.htm Lincoln Power Mig 140C: Good name with the best arc, dial settings, best build quality and cheaper spoolgun. $600 http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p003454.htm Hobart Handler 140: Good name with handy purge features. $500 http://www.brweldingsupplies.com/brands/Ho..._id=26&ID=4 Clarke 130EN: Thought it was a good name. Includes cart, autodark helmet and argon bottle. $515 http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldingd.../WE6523P-8.html The others include a regulator, but the Clarke is a full package. Also, all the others list a 20% duty cycle at 90A while the Clarke lists 30% @90A and 20% full power. So, what do you think? Am I being too cheap, or is the Clarke something worth buying? (note, I'd probably get heavy duty stick welder later on) Thanks B

Yes, obviously I was. Sorry, I was not trying to make this a how to thread, but a discription/picure of a major front end component modification seemed appropriate. *shrug* B

I'm glad you are making progress and enjoying the satisfaction. Last I remember, you were trying to dump the project truck due to funds and the magnitude of it, right? Good to have you back. B

The pictures were dead links so I can't see exactly what he means. One is curious why grinding for hours is preferable to milling since it seems necessary regardless? Why is a sleeve necessary if the bearing journal is precision machined? Just trying to understand. Thanks. B

Nice!!! Maddox is precious, my only complaint is the infrequent postings. B

Fair enough. What DO you do to the centerlink though? Description and photos would probably generate much more interest. Install requirements/modifications? Warranty? Good job, I tip my hat to anyone who makes parts for enthusiasts, but I think you need to elaborate before anyone who doesn't know you personally will order. B

Hmm, HAM's, no... There are a few wieners and meat heads though... (couldn't help it) Yes, I seem to remember a few in a thread about CB's. You could search for it... B

Hey LB, nice of you to drop by!! Glad to hear things are going good. I'm fine, I guess, just have too much that needs to be done. *shrug* Say, you bought another Ford... Didn't the first one cure you? Well, just remember, when you lift the Ranger and hit the trails, you know plenty of Pathys who pull you out... B

I agree, this is the way to do it... Do some research and buy 80% technology (not the best and so there is time to find the flaws) from a good brand and you will wind up with a good computer. I had mine built to my spec and shipped to me 3 years ago for $700. Added a few fans, hard drives, a DVD burner, some ram and I can still upgrade the ram, vid card and processor (currently 128mb 4x AGP and 2.4 gig). It runs anything. CAD, video, any game... Thats because you go to those 'questionable' video sites and chat rooms... Yes, Windows sucks, thats never been in question. But for the price of the Macs, is the difference worth it? My GF has had several major problems with hers (hardware failures, OS reinstalation, etc). I don't believe they have more processing power either. Just keep your Windows machine well protected, backed up and use it. (I scrub and reconfigure 1 of the HD's about once a year, currently running 3 OS's on 3 HD's) *shrug* B

I haven't done that, nor have I heard of anyone doing it. My guess is that it is ignored unless it fails. I can't see how much difference it would make in a 4x4 unless it fell out... *shrug* B

LOL, trans state small claims ?? LMAO!! It doesn't work, at all. May as well try to sue from Cali to Oregon to recover $. Besides all you can get is a judgement, no means of lien or collection. By the time it's said and done with, you spent as much in time, effort and grief as you MAY have recovered. The money went to L&P so there is no sueing P and not L, it is a business... B

WOW, never heard of eraser disks... I'll check it out. Sheit, totally forgot about that. Ronsonol lighter fluid, contains naptha, excellent for removing labels, tar grease and oil stains. My contractor neighbor had walked through linolium glue and the bottom of his boots were a mass of adhesive. Naptha was the only thing that made any difference but didn't eat the rubber. Don't know how paint safe it is though, but it's pretty cheap. *shrug* B

Read this... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2621 GL-4 only, if you plan to keep the truck. I have read enough to firmly believe it. It won't cost any more, just the effort of chasing it down and it's not THAT hard. Trust me on this. B

You got lucky, you damn Enginerd!!! B

OK, acetone as a last resort, but spot check it first!! Other than that, get some plastic bondo scrapers, sharpen them, use whatever chemical loosens the crap the best and scrape useing elbow grease... B

I worked for 3M for years and there is one thing I'll swear to. It may cost premium, but they make GOOD products. That said, I've never used what V mentions, but if he'll stand by it, I'm sold. (too bad about the question of his probable 3 legged, 3 toes offsprings) B P.S. IPA is cheaper and you may have some at home. Give it a try. *wink*

Same, Bud Sorry you had to deal with that. Red (redfinder88?) had to deal with a spun keyway that took out his top end also. It look him about a year to fix it... O: I dislike motors that rely on ruber and keys to keep from colliding, but these last well if you keep on top of them and have good luck. You didn't. You should be well set for a while though, if that hepls the pain. *beer* B