Precise1

Yep, common problem... Hosing it off is by far the best way. You could get one of those old time pump up sprayers, come to think of it, maybe a supersoaker would work as well... B

Hey Paul. My ground lead is bolted on one of the shorter body screws. directly 9 oclock if you are looking at the back of the alt. On the back of mine there is also a short stud with washer and nut at 7 oclock. I'm betting that is where it should go, but it doesn't seem to matter that much, as mine works fine. The point is just a good ground. B

I'm guessing that you mean the Z24 motor ? A great motor, but very underpowered (106hp stock). It could barely pull my D720 4x4 around, but never failed once in 10 years. Yes, I believe sw recently put a 3.0 tranny on a Z2.4 and he just had to swap out the bell housing. He claimed it wasn't too hard. I think the thread is in the Garage section, let me look. B Oops, Wrong all the way around... It was a Z24 tranny on a 2.7TD so it seems like the 4cyl and 6cyl units won't mate. Sorry http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=10596

How much to ship me the frame ?? B

Well, you got to do what you got to do... At least you are keeping 4x4ing in mind... There's a lot of good people out there and some don't drive nissans... :o Good luck with the little woman and dont be a stranger Bro !! B

LMAO, Red is right... Seriously though, VERY nice work space !!! I'm happy enough with mine at 1/2 the size ! Happy enough to buy a mill... Damn, you had to ask about the gaspers... I relapsed, but am gearing towards round 37 next week... B

mws has a very good point... SMOG laws !! But "up the hill to flagstaff" makes me think you are out of the test zones. Regardless, I could do all that I mentioned in Cali (other than ECU and perhaps cams) and still pass smog laws. Yes, I can vouche for that. No, I haven't done all that to my truck. What I meant was getting a 3.0VGe motor ('90+ with MPFI). Thats 150+hp right there. Put on 3.3L heads (lets assume 10hp for a 10% displacement increase), port and polish (5 hp?) smog legal headers (8 hp?) coupled with free flow exhaust (4 hp?) and a good intake (3 hp?). Ignition, like 88 said to make it burn nice and it equals 180 hp already. At almost 200k with the TBI I bet you don't have 135hp. The reason thats the reason I suggested a newer version motor and even used it'll have 1/2 the miles (hopefully). The motor is just an air pump, but I can tell mine is fighting restrictions both in and out (mostly in though). Remember though, you are climbing at altitude. My Pathy starts to suffer at 4k+. More INTAKE !!! More INTAKE !!! By the way, there are threads about everything I have suggested. If you cant find it, let me know. While a 350 would be cool, a newer massaged 3.0 motor with better accessories would probably make you as happy as a pig in... B

I just have to ask... Have you considered building up a nice 3.0E motor with 3.3 heads, cams, port and polish, headers, freeflow exhaust and reprogrammed ECU ? I'm sure it could be done for less than $2k and that should put you in the 200+hp range... Still not the same as a 350, but MUCH cheaper and easier. B

Thanks for the tip, I personally don't need it, but it is along the same lines of people posting that they have a temp carfax subscription or something. Much appreciated !! B

:o Welcome back Bud !! I was wondering what happened to you; figured it was the business idea keeping you occupied... Sorry it didn't work out, but I'm sure you learned a lot to apply next time. Sorry you smashed the pathy but at least it didn't total it !! Congrats on the house though, I'd be more than pleased to own one before I die... *snort* B

Build your own custom frame out of 1/8" I beam... Sorry... B

Yep, bingo... It's the LSD and it is working well. No doubt you exagerate a bit. Point and match... I damn near pivoted my Pathy the first few wet intersections, then I learned not to give much gas until the thing is basically pointed straight ! Use 1st normally (it will self corect), 2nd with respect, and 3rd hammered if you are straightish (long controlable fishtail). If you have an automagic, well, there is 1/2 your problem and I pity you. B

Sorry Bud, like the others said, I hope you are OK. All else is replacable. You may want to make a thread in the Parts for Sale section where you state your vehicle, location and damage that killed your truck (so people wont ask for a rear bumper from one that was rearended, etc). I remember someone looking for a motor and there are always general parts being sold. Good luck. B

No brand recommendation, but you are after the right thing. Add sparingly and run the windows up and down (with the motor running) several times while you reapply. It's time for me to do the same... B

Yeah, neither can I... Was stuck in Z24 mode, but when I looked today, I realised there is no vacuum unit. Sorry. B

Thanks Slick ! B

In that case, I'd build off of the two holes (per side) in the frame horns underneath used for grill guards !! If you want I can give you that info also, the sun is comming out... Slick is basically right. I believe there is a little bit of difference (a tapped hole or two) but basically interchangable. lgranch might have one. Try looking through the parts for sale section or posting in the parts wanted section. Make sure to state where you are. B

Hmm, try running the ECU codes again. Did you check the vacuum advance unit ? Throttle position sensor ? Seems engine control related to me... What changes might be made at 3000 rpm ? Does it run fine then immediately blubber at exactly 3k or does it start at 2800 and get worse until 3100 ? You get the idea... Only 20 psi difference with a broken piston !?! B

Ok, I looked, and no, at least the two smaller could not be replaced without removal of the lower arm, but my recollection was that you could easily bolt it from the other side and just use a lockwasher and nut on the indside... The larger bolt may be changable with some finess. It is much more accessable with the suspension at full droop (wheel off the ground) I believe I snuck a wrench in angled down and out ward from the front/left side of the diff and just let it bind against whatever to hold the bolt. B

Can't remember and can't seem to find it... Exhaust studs are 6mm? 8mm? B

The inside dimension of where the bumper bends is 60", that leaves about 3/4" gap per side. The bumper L brackets are 29" apart (inside dim) with the bolt spacing at 32" and 38" apart. That should give you what need. I guessing this bumper is mainly for cosmetics, as Slick pointed out, the mounting brackets are pretty weak. B

You mean the 3 holding the torsion bar socket ? Yes, I believe you can normally take them out and replace them. I'll have to double check tomorrow, but thats what I remember from loosening them when I pulled the T-bars. Hopefully yours arent being blocked by the rust... B

I'd check your vacuum advance first. I seem to remember compression "spec" being something like 160 psi and fairly tightly grouped (10 %) ? Still 130-160 is not terrible (Chiltons manual agrees), and should not produce the effect you are describing. Fuel filter ? Probably not. Injector/fuel pressure issue ? Could be... B

I started young... B

That'll do just fine for most things. Same size jack I've been using for 20 years... B