Precise1

Sure thing Mr. It takes me 9 months to install a motor... B

Yes, that is the last resort but at this point it is more of a challenge... Done that... twice... Seriously though, I'm sure the impact gun will deal with it, I just need to get the compressor from a co worker and have some free time. B

Damn Fish Boy, I just started trying over a week ago and wasn't in town last weekend... It'll get done by this weekend unless I keep working overtime and saturday. B

Glad you enjoyed the dig you fomented Red, but if you weren't so busy being pleased, perhaps you would have read... I'm sure the air gun will do the trick. Oddly enough. I have never heard of anyone stripping the threads on the axles or breaking the castle nuts before... B

I think the real answer is to buy a basic manual... More like between 89 and 90... LOL MZ, I'm not sure that counts... B

That will only insure that you overheat the starter or start frying wires. They are meant only for REALLY low duty cycles, NOT to run constantly... As Luker said, pull the fuel relay. B

It's been soaked with penetrant, hammered, heated, etc and no dice. No, there are no burrs holding the nut from turning, I checked that. mws was good enough to send me an impact socket, I'm borrowing an impact air gun from work and a compressor from a guy at work. I should get it off in the next few days... B

Yes, they are, for some things... *zipties Red's fingers together* B

Dextron goes in the 90-95 transfer cases... B

Good find, what did you buy it for ?? Glad you got the fix also... B

Use a straw... B

Injector cleaner (I prefer Redline), plug wires (if you do the cap/rotor/plugs) and thats basically a tune up... B

Nice... Sounds like me when I get a 'new' vehicle. 88 gives good advice other than using zip ties. Thats sketchy and ghetto; don't go there. I'm gonna have to give him a slap when I meet him... B

Perhaps, or what JJ said. I doubt it is the torque, but then you didn't use a torque wrench, did you ?? Check the studs for damage (threads, straightness and seating in the rotor). If in doubt, replace it/them. It's a small cost to insure piece of mind and to keep your friggin' wheels on the truck !! I'm glad it was just a good story and not a tragedy... B

Going bang for buck, get Thorly headers, put in a full exhaust (magnaflow and flow master are the favorites) with a high flow cat. Intake, either go with a snorkel or increase the stock box air intake depending on usage or $. Leave the ECU for last, especially if you have to pass smog or like gas milage. MSD ignition is also recommended along with keeping the truck in good tune, electric fan swap, cleaning the MAF and making sure the O2 sensor is functioning properly. There is plenty of info on all of this via the search function. B

*@ everything* B

I park by sound and friction... Seriously, they are very handy, but I prefer them a bit smaller so they don't block too much of the normal view. Then you can swing your side mirrors out even farther to get an even wider vista B.

Yes, they will still function somewhat but you have to press hard and don't expect to be able to lock up the tires. If you need extra help, use the parking brake also. The engine shouldn't die while it's driving, so I recommend coasting to the side of the road as quickly as is safe, stopping and then try to restart or determine what the problem is... B

Fair enough... Sounds like you bought a lemon to begin with or beat the tar out of it and fixed it poorly. Sorry, not trying to be insulting. That said, I can kill any vehicle made, even within a reasonable time frame, like a few hours... Sorry you had suck a poor experience with yours but we all have to make choices. I'll miss your posts, try not to a stranger. I'd like to hear of your trials with your replacement vehicle also... Good Luck. B

I'll sell you a Cyclone 2 (the double whammie) for a measily $50. Then you would see a 2-6 gain. (roll 2 4 siders and reroll any 4's) B

If it's falling apart, take it off. If it is not that bad, use bailing wire to secure it well. See if either fixed the rattle. B

Since it is all on one side, yes, I'd guess it could be mistimed. If the marks line up, then count the teeth between and go from there. Could that head be fubared enough that it won't make any difference ?? What year truck, and how many miles on it/since the last T-belt change ?? B

I'll chime in with mws. If it is unknown, believe it to have been neglected, especially in the case of the timing belt as the repercussions can be costly !! No, they don't always make a horrendous racket, but they generally give without warning. Thanks for reading and learning... Take care of the imperatives first, then the fluids (tranny cooler) , then whatever seems awry. With a little love, the Pathy will be as reliable as the Stanza. B

Sorry, I can't recall, but what shape are the bolt hole threads in ?? B

Thanks, but no, this isn't my first time. The pins came out whole and intact; all old VW's have them. I'm still open for tips, but I think the impact gun with mws's loaned socket should do the trick... Damn, I hope !! B