Precise1

Maritime man replaced his input shaft, I believe. Try PM-ing him or hopefully he posts... B

*snort* Yes, 31x10.5 fit well on stock rims and in the wheelwells, but not much larger does. If the truck is stock, it can't make use of the larger weels anyway, so no loss. There are a few tricks in the Garage/Pinned topic section that can help out also. B

True, but be nice.... That is where to find it and how to read it although, I think the HG46 is 4.625... Someone slap me down if I am wrong... B

1/2 the people junk yard scavenge (ford explorer is popular) and the others buy new. Apparently there are only a few sources, but are all generically the same other than plate and fin style. I believe plate is preferred but more expensive. Biggest points are what you can fit in (usually between the radiator and condensor) and bypassing the stock unit. Spend a few minutes with a ruler first. This information had been supplied by an overworked, distracted, tired, non-automatic transmission owner... B

Like he said^ If it is rpm dependant, it is probably from the spindle on out... Sometimes it is just something wedged in. Just jack it up, wiggle the wheel top to bottom front the side iof the truck for play (that could indicate loose wheel bearings which can make that noise), take the wheel off, check for anything wedged, stuck or binding, lube the caliper slides, check the brake pads, bleed the brakes and see what it does. B

Yep, looks like the same type connectors that went to my tranny (MT though). I'll but if you look up towards the front of the truck, you'll see some wires and or a hole. If it's a hole, look on the other side... As sw asked, is there anything tranny/sensor related that you know doesn't work ? B

Hmm, sounds like it's internal alright. First, have someone step on the clutch and observe the slave cylinder push on the throw out bearing fork. Watch for 'normal' range travel. I'll assume the slave is working correctly. Does the slave cylinder back all the way off of the fork, like the fork is not completing its travel ? I'm guessing it is something like some fingers came off of the pressure plate and are bound up inbetween the throw out bearing or something like that. Your clutch plate could have come apart if it was down to the rivets, letting the friction pads fall off. It would feel like the clutch was engaged... If the slave cylinder is working fine, I'm sure it's on the inside... B

Hmm, good point... I didn't realize it was one of those 50ish things. Plastic=bad unless it's along the lines of the PE skid plate I made. B

Actually, due to the stupid screw/lock ring mechanism, you generally get to choose between "looser than you want it" or "tighter than you want it". I was just in there today dealing with it. I swear, next time I'm going to measure and clock the thing and put in an extra set of holes to reduce the minimum adjustment interval by 1/2... B

BAD Z_PILOT !!! Double posting is frowned upon... This is basically the same. Will delete tomorrow. B

There are a couple people here who have that or at least did a complete investigation. SteevO ?? B

Hmm, nice, but seem oxidized... Start at $150 for 4 as they aren't new and need polishing... You can always go up, but brand new steel rock crawlers can be had for $50 each On review, are you buying or selling ? B

Yep, like he said ^ Fill and bleed the system and go from there... B

No, all motors are set up differently depending on lubrication needs, performance, maintainence intervals, etc... My Honda CBR1100 takes 3.5 qts for a 1.1 liter motor, my VW Bug takes 3.5 for a 1.6 liter motor, and a Porsche takes 9 quarts for a 2.7 liter engine... Just put 3.75 qts in a stock pathy and change it every 3k miles... B

HEY MWS !!!! Are you ever going to tell me if the exhaust studs are 6 or 8mm so I can make the bolt chewers/removers for you ?? Do you check your PM'S ?? Hmm, I just had a thought... I can make pilot bushings for the manifold (if they are uniform) so the wandering drill issue is a non issue. Who can tell me what the manifold bolt holes look like ? (pict+measurements) B

Yes. GG has a good point about the front one. Unless you go rock bashing, it can wait if the wallet needs refilling, but should be upgraded to match the rest... Do the undercarrage first. Ask to see if they need to be interlinked front to rear for mounting... B

Yep, replace the fluid, bleed it, if it still happens it is either internal in the MC, SC or something bad is happening with your throw out bearing or pressure plate... B

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True, sorry, I didn't consider Canadian funny money, shipping, import, duties, customs, mounties, igloos and polar bears (all the things Pezzy complains about). Just seemed steep to me, but when you put it like that, well, there it is... Avoid the loan if you can, debt is rarely worth it. B

You can get Thorleys for about the same price as the pace setters you listed, and they are far better made. $80 a shock is more than I would want to pay; I got the ES3000 for about $25 each if you include the SS (shipped). The springs you can get off of a JGC for cheap, there is a thread that covers the details. Ask if you can't find it. Damn, do you make too much $ or just not like to read ?? Trying to help ya... B

LOL, next time ask... They aren't very expensive either. Exhaust stud issues are minor in my book, I like the solid motor. Working on the outside is ok, working on the inside irritates me... B

2.5" is the largest you want to go, 2.25 probably being more applicable to a 3.0 V6. You can replace the manifold back system any time (hi flow cat does wonders)and will notice improvement, although the real gains are with replacing the headers. This can be done after the exhaust obviously. Anyone who doesn't run a cat is an ass... B

Note that they are all the US trucks dropping in price like rocks... Yes, I know others are, but nothing like that. Check the thread in the off topic about the nissan/gm merger towards the end for the quote about how the high profit gas guzlers aren't selling. The US may only have one US motor company soon. Oh, wait, Chrysler is owned by DB... :X B

Absolutely correct, it wasn't about ultimate power and I prefer the reliability. Like minds GG, cheers !! BTW, if I ever tear down this motor and can't do a good job myself, I'll send it out. With a clear intake and headers (+ exhaust), it would give the motor all it could want. http://www.manufacturingcenter.com/tooling.../1297tekup.html Anyone up for a Pathy Drag Contest ?? I'd be willing to run... B

Well, obviously, it didn't act up when it was being smogged... I think they fail cars that die during the test. Oops, I better update my info, I moved to Santa Rosa. Still, not a long drive though. You are welcome to come up if you want some help or just say hi, whatever... I do have a garage and most tools that could be needed. B