Precise1

About... What you are doing is comparing both sides to each other, looking for damage. Look for chipped paint/repainted areas. Bulges or creases in the metal that seem odd... Look at the wheel wells, the sides of the engine bay, from underneath. My gues is that there was a accident in the past and things are slightly misplaced. I doubt there is anything 'wrong' with it though, probably just cosmetic. B

No Slick, you can only bring MiniMe or my Pathy will suffer from envy... JK, anything is welcome and I'd be glad to help you as you help me. B

Slick, I'll take you up on that, no doubt. About time we met regardless! Thanks for the links Red. So this is adjustable also or jst preset lengths? Like I said, learning curve... Are they the right dimensions (other than strength)? Are they mounted? Send them to me and I'll reverse engineer them. Ok, I'll look. If I didn't, I'll write it up. Other than mounting pieces, it's not hard... Thanks for the clarification... Up to you, I'll open it up and port/polish it if you wish. Say wouldn't that, a stock air box and a pict/explanation/dimensions of any lines allow me to design a snorkel box? Easy... Just need to know what/how much you want. Basically, brackets are generally straight forward. I just need to know more than up, down, left or right. It can be worked out but the accuracy of the measurements is critical. We'll revisit this soon as it is something I can do soon. Thanks Guys (and Slicks), this is great! B

Thats my vote... Crawl underneath/open the hood and look for creases. B

Exactly... A VERY good point and I will look at it further. Problem is that I don't have the parts (there is no substitution for first hand fitment) and until I finish a VW and motorcycle, the Pathy is my only vehicle so prolonged down time is not possible. Now, for the specifics, but keep what I said above in mind. Also, I need to walk before I run so some of the more difficult (and less marketable) projects will need to wait. I'm assuming that unless otherwise stated, we are talking about WD21. I'll tentatively rate the difficulty and probability level from 1-5, 5 being unlikely. Possible, but would probably need a custom crossmember. 4, I'll hold off a while. Already addressed, but I will look up the trailmasters for comparison. Should be doable, but I know nothing about what is the needed/desired effect. 4 for now due to learning curve. I really like this idea!! I need to see what exists, but I'm sure I can make an adequate version!! 3. Is this necessary for the dual mount shocks ? I suspect so. I prefer to stay away from front end components for a while so maybe it isn't feasible. 5. I should have known Martin would have a field day with this!! (I love good enginerds) Martin, will you help with design and fitment ? What sort of CAD do you use ? Again, I don't know where to begin. 4. With the ball socket, snap ring grooves, etc this would not be cheap. Isn't the real issue the angle of the shifter therefore the hardbody fits better? A simple extension would be easy. 1 with understanding. Yes, that is the next one on the table, but I plan to make the mounting brackets so that there is NO modification to the alt required. The right way to do it, and we all want a core refund, right ? 2. I think this is fairly straight forward, BUT my truck is useless for fitment. I'll need help. 3. Thats in your court, I can connect wires, don't ask for more... 7. Yes, no problem other than I can't do front bumpers with my truck. 2. See above comments. Not hard, other than I don't have the bumpers and a straight Pathy. If you mean stock racks, no problem, I basically have all the info other than where to drill the holes and what's underneath them. 2 Possible, but is it needed that often ? There are some arguements over whats needed but I think I could make it. 3. Disconnect shouldn't be hard, but remote makes it challenging. 3 On a stock truck without sacrificing anything else? HARD! More likely build into a custom bumper. See 'bumpers' above. 4. Again, my truck is twisted. The one I made for JJ works admirably, BUT it fit on my truck and not his. The front bolt pattern was backwards and the angles were off up to 15 degrees. I can make mounts and a template so people can make their own. Didn't I ever do a write up on how to? C clamps, bar stock, a torch, drill, patience and a garden hose is all thats required... 3 The seats are uncomfortable? 3. Isn't that the top of it? What do you mean ? Armrest/cup holder combo with a small storage area ? 3. Tie rod style? How many people need this, please explain.3. Doesn't that exist in the tool kit? Never have changed my plugs so I have NO idea. 3. Yes, I've wanted to do this and I dont think it would be too hard, but I don't know any fool with a TBI nearby. 3. Farther than I want to go and not much need. 5. Yes, I agree that should be looked into, but it's too much for now.5. Of course, your ideas and welcomed, desired and expected, but please keep them on planet earth. (enginerds!! ) Thats a good posiblity, but is more fab work than machining and not realistic now. 4 Yes, I designed one, but billet cost was prohibitive and I'm not up to the welding. Any GOOD welders interested in a few projects ?2.5. Can be done, once we know whats desired. Any guinnea pigs ??3. I'd have to see whats involved... Ok, that covers most everything, but still chime in and don't be discouraged. We all have different resources. Something I can't do well, someone else may excell at. To reiterate, my truck is only good for fitment that does NOT involve the front end. Until other vehicle projects are finished (3-6 months), I can not afford down time of more than a day. I need buy a lathe and build up tooling. Lets focus on the more mundane items and work up. Anyones windshield wipers chatter ? I bet that their plastic bushings are loose like mine. I'll be making those soon also... Thanks for the GREAT input and keep it up! If you see a project being backburnered due to lack of my skill or resources, but you have them and are interested, please speak up. B

DAMMIT, I was 1/2 way done and my browser died!!! SHEIT !! Ok, I'm starting over and breaking it down so that doesn't happen again! I want to stay away from front end components for the time being. Too much liability and my truck has a damaged front end so fitment and testing is not realistic. (sorry casey, that includes drilling rotors) I rent so I can't just buy a cheap pathy to disassemble. It would be nice to build one up from prototypes and TRY to break it... Lathe, mill and grinder, but yes, I have never welded in my life. I plan to learn soon as some parts are not feasible from billet, but I don't have the space, tools or skill to break into the bumper market. Plastic, phenalic (sp), copper, brass, aluminum, steel, stainless, nickel, titanuim, inconel, tungsten. Whatever, I can machine it all. Draw up what you have in mind and we'll see if others are interested. If not, a 1 off wouldn't cost a lot. That kind of work is fun! Please see above about steering components and pulleys. Making strut spacers shouldn't be a problem, but I don't know anyone local with an R50 so I would need a lot of competent assistance to do that. I'm opposed to buying an existing product and copying it; it's just plain bad form and you can wind up mimicking a flawed or inferior product. No thank you. (Continued in next post) B

Yep, I get it AND like it! Makes perfect sense, but for 95% of the Pathys, I think a mild taper of no more than 30 degrees included angle and 2-3 inches taller than the spring seat would work fine. I really do like the zip tie idea though, as Red pointed out the industrial versions are seriously strong!! No reason that it can't be combined though. I'm all for overkill with this, because popping out a spring on the trail would be a serious drag and I doubt many people keep spring compressors in their kit. I see where you are going, but depending on the material (plastic?) and the size/pitch of the bolt, I suspect a serious lateral shift of the spring would just tear the threads out... Yes, I'll ask trailboss what he did. No need to start from scratch... Thanks for the valuable input people, this is how good designs are achieved!! Oh, I was thinking of the spacer on the bottom. Is there any advantage to have it on top? B

Good guy or not, not checking emails, not responding to people waiting for parts prepaid is VERY bad business. I can't believe he is too busy to do that. Didn't a similiar thing happen with them a year or two ago, but it was health issues ? My point is that if you need your truck on the road within a time frame, perhaps you should consider alternatives or back up plans. B

Thank you very much. BTW, your springs are held in by compression and the seats alone. The risers would match the seats and the zip ties would just be additional (secondary) securement in case of extreme flex. There are no negatives to having it set up like that, as far as I know. B

Port and polish isn't hard, just labor, but from what I have seen the MAF doesn't need it/little gain. Are we talking about the same thing ? Mass Air Flow Sensor right after the air box on a 3.0 multiport FI ?? Please explain. The cogged pully can be done, but like I said, I need to work into this. I don't think you would like the price of a 1 off... B

Plain and simple. Plastic (don't ask what kind, I haven't decided which yet) rear coil spring risers for the WD21. I'm thinking 1 and 2" at this point. Rear sag, but ok with the ride? Add a spacer. Need a bit more lift? Add a spacer. What I have in mind is something machined that is formed to the lower spring mount and machined to hold and clock the spring on top. I'd add some angled holes so you could run large zip ties through it to hold the spring in place. Not too hard to do, but fairly useful for a lot of people. I know that the spring diameters run from .51-.59" so maybe I can get away with only 1 diameter groove, but what are the ID/OD of the springs? If anyone removes their springs, please measure this for me along with the coil diameter and bottom step height. Please, no eyeballing with a tape measure, caliper measurement only. You can get calipers for $20 and they will be useful for a lifetime... I'll probably have to pull my springs to get the lower perch dimensions and can measure them then, but I prefer to have more than 1 data point. Help is appreciated and please chime in if interested. B

Ok, time to get back into the pit... Refresher: I'm a machinist with 15 years experience. I have a light duty mill in the garage thats basically set up and I'm shopping for a lathe. I have access to better equipment (+grinders) at work and know how to use all of them. A friend of mine owns a small shop complete with manual and CNC mill and lathe. I can make things and have resources. I am currently employed for diamond turning; I cut optics. The only reason I mention that is to point out that I machine to millionths of an inch at work. Holding to a few thousanths in the garage isn't really an issue. Anything I distribute will be quality. I've wanted to develope products for a long time and the Pathy world seems like a good place to start. I have 2 and 3d CAD at home and can design reasonably well. I need your help in determining what we need and what you will buy so I can do some tentative pricing. Yes, I plan to make some $ at this, but I doubt it will approach what I earn at work; I want to help and won't be making mint, but I don't work for free. I'm going to ask for a forum to be set up for things like this and not just for me. For example, BlackPanther skid plates are VERY good from what I have heard and this would be a place for requests/feedback. To begin with, I am more focused on WD21 since thats what sits in the driveway, but I have no issue making parts for R50's. It is just more difficult as I can't just go measure things so I will need more of your help. I also plan to start simple; I'm not up for designing new A arms right now. Not to say that can't happen in the future, but I need to build up, not F up. To get started though (and move threads soon) I request you reply to a thread ONLY about the part being discussed. If you have a different idea, start a new thread titled "parts" and discription (what it is). You will see my lead... Thanks and I appreciate your input. B

Hello Mr Jim, and welcome back! It's been a bumpy road without you but your Pathy site has taken a life of it's own and fought for it. I'm very glad you have done the same. Yeah, life has it's harsh periods and it sounds like you got your share. I'm glad things seem to be leveling out for you, both health and happiness wise; after all, thats what really matters. Upgrades to the site are sorely needed and I'm sure everyone would love to hear from you more often, but your health is more important. Take care of yourself first, but then, no need to be a stranger... Let me know if there is anything I can do; I'm not good with web stuff, but I'm pretty handy with a B

Yes, but as was mentioned, that's only good for 6 months. I'm sure it could be played off a bit longer, but I doubt for 3 years. I suggest moving here, bringing the Pathy, see if it is close to passing, fix it if it is, buy another one if not, swap any parts you want to keep, sell the old one and enjoy California... B

Moved... Oh, Truck is looking mighty fine Bud !! B

It does have it's drawbacks, but in the long run it saves $, grief and creates peace of mind. Sorry, but I don't have answers for you. There is a cheap nissan dealer who has good info that was posted several times. Lemme look... B

Just to make it clear, start at the farthest bleed point from the MC, then work your way to the bleed point closest to the MC. If it is still bad, (and you have no leaks)I would guess you have an air pocket in the caliper you replaced. Try unbolting it, wedging something between the pads and bleeding it up side down or in a different position. You get the idea. Last think to look for is to see if the piston seal in the new caliper is leaking. B

^ditto. Sounds like something in the drive train is unhappy under load. Change fluids and lube the universal joints first. I'd do it one at a time so you can determine where the issue is if it goes away. B

Hey now, if you have ever high sided a Panda, you'd wear protective gear too !!! B

What a bunch of friggin' parrots !!!! B

Much better !! Guess you aren't totally useless, Red... B

2 cats ?? Never heard of that on a WD21. I wonder if it isn't a 'custom' exhaust set up ? B

Glad you had fun and were pleased. Um, yeah, bolts falling out definitely deserves some questions being asked !! Did you check the remaining ones ? B

Thanks, I always have trouble remembering that 0C is freezing... B

Also, if you have a leak, the system may need to be burped. (air pockets which may effect the sensor readings when you are pointed down hill) B