Precise1

Yep, you can use goof-off, I know people who swear by it for bug and tar removal. IPA (UM, Isopropyl Alcohol) will work, but you may want to spot test first. B

It is now, just had to find it (and move it)... Yes it has the same link, but specific dialogue. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4945 B

As JJ said... BUT, you won't be using the roof lights for road driving. Have you rewired your headlights to a relay to increase the brightness? I haven't but everyone swears by it. There is a write up in the how to section? B

I tried to pull one for you, but it refused so I did the next best thing. Yes, 12 point 12mm, 8mm looks right, 1.25mm pitch is correct coarse metric pitch for 8mm, the casing they go through is 23mm and they dont protrude so about 20-22mm length of thread, OAL of 30mm. If this is what you mean, thats the front differential, not the transfer case you lughead. B

No Worries... While I have not welded on my frame, I'd say yes, disconnect the battery completely to be safe. It won't hurt anything. B

LOL, airbag or windbag? Airbag would be in the steering wheel, windbag would be holding the steering wheel... JK!! Sorry about the accident. Glad you are ok and I hope she is also. As for no police report, I'd be raising hell !!! I'd say your pathy is totaled (frame bent), do you have uninsured motorist coverage?? B

Um, can I have that job?? Seriously, sounds good to me... Best take a look at what type of work/what tolerances need to be done and then over spec the machine resolution, capacity and versitility or you may wind up with a machine that can only handle the basic work. I've seen this happen before... Good luck and keep us informed. B

Butter, but then all plastics seem like that to me... While they be SHOULD be turned on a lathe, I cut some pieces of 1/2" I used for skidplates with a tree saw and a box cutter, so... yeah, butter. You could even use a linear cutting manual machining tool (linear cutting manual material removal impliment... AKA rasp) :o B

Sorry Bud, I just saw this. No, I don't know of any crash course that will quickly teach you what it usually takes years of experience to learn. BUT, I know of a good place to ask for help and I'm always available for specifics also. Feel free to PM me and if needed, we can chat or phone... Check this site out, someone there may know of a 2 hour journeyman video. I'm a member but can't even remember my login; they don't have a diamond turning section... http://www.cnczone.com/ B

Nope, no rear wheel adjustment, so if they try to sell you a 4 wheel alignment, better head for the door; they are trying to shaft you... DO NOT let them jack up the front end prior the alignment. The front ends need a day or so to settle once this is done. If they jack it up, the alignment will be off in a day or two. How much, I don't know, I just remember reading it... B

Probably... I think Delrin may be better though. I just have to sit down and compare qualities and price. B

So, what did you decide, hmmm? B

Let's see, it's a 97 R50 for starters. Sorry, I don't know them. Have you jacked it up, removed the skid plate and looked for obvious damage, had a friend turn the wheel, etc? Thats where I would start. B

UHMW should work Martin. It is slightly soft, but that could work to your advantage, dampening vibration, etc. I would probably recommend getting the glass filled (blue) variety if possible. MSC shows 3.5" roundx2' for $35. Not bad at all... http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXN...PMT4NO=20717522 or http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAG...32796&PMCTLG=00 B

Hmm, my machinist handbook doesn't not show that delta1 marking but it only covers SAE and ASTM. Cant find anything on google either, metric fasteners should have a number on the head. I'd assume it's a cheap bolt and replace them. B Wait, does it have 3 lines 120 degrees apart? Hard to tell from your picture... If it does, it's grade 5

Whats with you and dropping things on your feet, Martin? It is you who keeps doing that, isn't it? B

So, have you done this? Did it work? .006 isn't much, as I'm sure you know and torqueing will remove some of that (warp). How much were the heads warped ? Enquiring minds want to know!! B

I also had the tick that would fade as the motor warmed, and wasn't ready to tackle it due to no place to work. Guess what, it went away. No joke! Point is, it's not critical at that stage, but you don't want to push it too long or if it gets worse. It may just stop. Yes, go straight to thorleys for many reasons, I plan the same. B

Damn Martin... I have nothing you need, just wanted to say G*D F#kkin D@mmit in support. This is something I learned in machining (the hard way) and carried over to mechanics. NEVER interupt a step, finish the one at hand completely before walking away(you don't always remember). But then you know that... Sorry about the mess. B

I've heard plenty of mechanics say running dino oil is fine, just change it regularly. Others swear by the synthetics, but differ with the change frequency. Filtration influences this the most; if you have dual filters, you can run oil longer, but not double as gas blowby contaminates and helps break down the oil. Who is right, I don't know... Synthetics in an older motor can cause leaks (it's generally thinner) Blend is probably the most cost effective while hopefully extending the motor's life. As I understand, the trick is to buy a new car, run dino for the first few oil changes, then switch to synthetic. That doesn't apply here, but figured I'd mention it. My pathy gets dino oil that never runs more than 3k miles with a filter change every oil change. That alone has helped these motors run 250k+... B

This is disappointing. They do good work from what I have heard, when they do the work and ship parts... This off and on shipment, no response stuff is really giving them a bad name. They should be more clear about shipment dates (smells like lot runs) and have more active communication, or just stop. Leaving people hanging and only responding when the payment is reversed is bad form! Sorry L&P guys, but I call like I see it, and I have seen many similiar complaints over the last few years. B

Yep, I can hear a low whistle around 1200-1500 rpm, especially if I coast to a stop in gear. Not sure if I have the stock intake silenser thingie anymore, but the airbox is stock. Mine is a 95, whats yours? B

Nice!!! Thats getting passed around at work tomorrow... B

Makes sense. I'm working on a solid model prototype now but I'm having technical difficulties. This CAD is 2 years older than what I use at work and a bit different. Ahh, well, learning curve... again... B

It would be great to have you come and visit, Slick. Lets hold off a bit until I can plan for what I need to see/measure/etc though. I still need to look to see if I did a write up about how to make the UHMWPE skid plates. It may be that I just supply the mounts. Ok Red, thats what I figured for an adjustable pan hard rod. I wonder, are the ones on the pathy solid or hollow. If it was solid, I could just thread the OD and make the adjusting coupler... The bumper brackets seems like a good one. Everyone who has installed a lift has complained extensively about how cheap and difficult they are. It would be helpful to see them or have a template and measurements. DAMMIT, having a junker pathy just to mess with would be VERY helpful!! Heavy duty brackets for aftermarket bumpers seems reasonable, but don't they provide them with the bumpers? B