Precise1

I'd say he is pretty lucky!!! I'd butcher a truck to get that chica to hang out too!! B

I had a 84 PU with the Z24 motor and had that problem off and on for a while. Do the exhaust plugs have spark? I prefer WD-40, but same idea. Have you done this? Any vacuum leak that goes to the intake will cause the idle to increase. It's a most effective way to check. I don't trust visual inspections; it's too easy to miss a tiny crack. B

That smoke was just comming out of the exhaust, right?? Good on you for the beer though... B

Don't they have a weight limit? Lets have a 'look good' shot with you and the moped... All jokes aside, if you really want a 650 enduro, get a Honda XR650L. Way cheaper, totally reliable any accessories you could want. Otherwise get a street bike, be it cruiser or rocket. These eurosport bikes confuse me. All they achieve is not being great at anything... B

Well, a couple is 2. So that is 10 couples narrower, 20mm. 20mm is .787 inches. Not a huge amount in width so the difference shouldn't be noticed for normal city driving. The diameter is only 1.25MM difference where tire manufactures generally vary by as much as +/3MM so that doesn't matter either. I doubt you can tell the difference other than having fresh rubber. Shop well... They will fit fine unless you are within 12.7mm or .5" of rubbing right now, which I seriously doubt. Gas milage may drop 1mpg max due to the 'larger' tires, but I doubt you will tell the difference. The BFG AT is a smooth driving tread that doesn't effect MPG, especially if you inflate them properly. The variance between AT tread and 65/70% diameter will probably matter less in MPG compared to how you drive, what mood you are in, how late you are, what traffic is like. They are good tires, get them and don't worry. B

That or you have a strong battery that the truck is draining? How far is a normal days drive? Pathfinders seem to want a strong 12 volts or ignition/EFI go to crap. Like said before, check it out before it dies or carry good walking shoes. B

Thats because they are too afraid of you to risk bumping or stopping. Otherwise, it would have happened a long time ago... B

Hey yozsi. I'm guessing you aren't still in Indiana, if you have seen him in Vallejo? If you get the chance, see if you can flag him down and ask him to make an appearance. I'd like some information, but more importantly, this site could use some influx of technical experience on the extreme level. Besides, maybe he could use some parts from the classifieds... Like I said before, I'd just like to see some stats and photos if nothing else... B

My GF and I were late, on our way to her sister-in-law's birthday dinner at a Thai restaurant. 1/2 way there, she pulls up behind a monster SUV... "Holy Crap, get closer", I said, "I think thats a Pathfinder!!" Sure enough, a 93-95 SE I believe, jacked up high with full width? solid axles front and rear. Sheit, I was out of business cards and didn't have time to find a pen and paper. At the next light I jumped out, ran up, introduced myself and told him to check out NPORA on the web. He said sure, and the light turned green so I had to run back. At the next light, we were next to him, and he asked what the site was about. "Nissan Pathfinder Off Road Association" I yelled back, "I'm a moderator there, make sure you stop by!" "OK" was the response and that was all there was time for. I'm sure he wondered if I was a lunatic, but hey, what else was there to do. We didn't have time to tail him, so I did what I could. His rig is pretty trick, on par with 87path and Mookie's rides judging by the 1 minute I got to look at it. I'd like to talk to him about his leaf spring SAS for personal reasons, but I'm sure he has good info to share all around. Hell, it would be nice just to get some pictures and details of his truck. A definite TOTM candidate, hands down. If you read this Bud, sorry for the abrupt introduction. Chime in, we'd like to hear from you. Nice truck!! Bernard

Buy a torch end, but not the cheapest!! You'll have problems with shut off and flame regulation if you do. Still for $20-30 you have it and a canister sitting and waiting for you in the garage. It will pay for it's self in time and frustration quickly. Besides, with it, you can: 1) fugger with the neighbors car 2) melt the crazy glue in your car locks 3) burn ants 4) light the crack pipe 5) remelt tar to seal a leaky roof 6) burn down the house 7) burn bushings out The list is endless... B

Yes to all the above, low voltage will cause gage/ecu wierdness. Follow Simons advice, this bound to be one or the other. Are all contacts clean, including body ground end? B

I don't know the autotrannys, so sorry, I can't help. lgranch knows them well, but is AWOL. There are a few others who are handy, 88pathoffroad, for one. Try PM or maybe they will see this. MWS, perhaps? Someone, anyone, Bueler?? B

Damn, I saw this mentioned in the PoHo thread and answered there, but I guess it wasn't seen. NEXT time, just heat it up with a torch. Don't melt it, (the pot metal goes quick) soft is good, then it pulls off just fine. I had to do this a few months ago... Sorry I was too late to save grief. Prying and hacking are bad and unnecessary! B

Ok, slows it down a bit peoples!!! This isn't your private pissing grounds, so don't act like it. Thanks, B

Yep, the germans had water injection units on some of their fighter planes in WW2 for when they needed an extra boost. Worked quite well, if I recall. B

Please!!! I have found a pretty cool 500w scooter though!! Since when is a SV650 a sport bike? Seriously though, just get liability only w/uninsured motorist coverage, it's only a few hundred a year. Riding a bike is a non contact sport, this is just THAT much more incentive... B

Well, I only drive 15 miles a day, so it's not a big deal to me, BUT I am making myself stop being lazy and get my 78 VW Bug convert back on the road. I re-adjusted the adjustable front struts yesterday and need to finish installing the strut brace. Then all I have to do is the rear brakes, change all fluids, replace the windshield and seal, find the gas leak/replace all flex fuel line, reupholster the seats, install carpet kit, install stereo, probably install electronic ignition, install the air horn, make and install some bumpers. I have 80% of the parts sitting in the garage, I just need a few hours to get it all done. Once that is complete, I'll consider if I will convert the Mad Maxed 65 VW Bug Convert Baja into an EV (it's just a rolling chassis right now) B

Turning blind? Not blaming you, just asking... I drive like a panzy in a cage, and a freak on 2 wheels. Survival is what I'm after... All that matters is that you (and assuming the other driver) are ok. Metal can be bought and traded, not like life and limb. Kidneys and livers on the other hand... It's just proof that the Gods hate caR50's... Hmm, lets see a pict of your wreck, Dirty Mcshutmouth.... Sorry, too much wierdness, trouble, death in relations right now for me to be serious. Like I said, all that matters is that you are ok!! B

I didn't see milage, but I would guess... #1)failing rubber lines #2)failing MC #3)air in the lines I'll put $20 on #1 without blinking, and I don't gamble... PLEASE remember to post the fix, it may help people in the future. Hopefully, a dealership will provide that. Without the knowledge/resources/time to do it yourself, you have little choice. Best of luck... B

*snort* Ok, as long as you get it all back together and working... I always have high hopes when I hear that... Did you ever thing of taking the other side apart to reference to?? Sorry, Mr P. Just feeling kinda frisky... B

Yes, to elaborate on Casey, specifically, the ground. The negative that goes to the body (then to the motor on mine). Remove the bolts at the body/motor and make sure things are relatively clean. Hell, sandpaper them for good luck. Many an issue has been misdiagnosed by something so simple... As Casey said, components... This means positive also. It is not common for them to corrode. Trace the wires to their primary connections, thats where issues generally stat. It can't hurt to check your starter connection. Being under the oil filter, it gets its share of soiling... B Err, -15C isn't cold?? I think you need a lesson in perspective!!! But yeah, that could weaken the battery enough. Does it seem to crank slowly? If not, I'm sticking to connections/conductivity...

Nice response guys! Yes, TBI is Throttle Body Injection, the '88 will have it. It looks like a carburator with 2 injectors pissing down the throat, sort of... BadIceDude, this may be hard to trouble shoot, it doesn't seem straight forward... Be patient, and lets try with the easiest first. 1) Do you have access to a multimeter (for measuring impedence/resistance...) Anyone to help you?? Easy you other guys, electronics isn't my strong point!! WARNING. You will be dealing with gas, so take all precautions. Cover skin, eyes. Do not proceed near flame/spark sources!!! Have a fire extinguisher handy!! 2) The fuel filter is on the left rearish side of the engine compartment. In is the bottom, out is the top. Pinch off the in (bottom) hose with vicegrips and a rag, unscrew the clamp AND with a jar ready, remove the bottom fuel line and catch what drains out of the filet in a clear (glass) jar. This will drain quick, so be ready!! It may be easier if you remove the fuel filter from the clip that holds it first. Pay attention, and it will be straight forward. NOW, the gas in the jar, do you see any crap in it?? Thats what I am wondering, if the rubber fuel lines have degraded. The next (probably unnecessary, but try it since you are here) step is put the pinched off 'in' fuel line into a large, clear container (COVER YOUR EYES. SAFETY GLASSES OR SHADES AT WORST) and release the vicegrips. If no gas came out, have someone turn on the ignition VERY briefly (do not crank the starter, just turn on the ignition. Do not stand in front of the truck!!) and collect the gas that is pumped out. Do you see ANY crap in it?? Sorry for all the silly CAUTION warnings, but as you are a noob, I'd really rather say it than risk you getting hurt, not understanding... Lets go from here. B

Ok, the distributor supplies the spark to the sparkplugs. It is the front, top gizmo with the 7 wires in the top of it. Thats the cap. The rotor is inside. Remove the 3 screws that hold the cap on and lift it up. There are 6 contacts around the outside and 1 in the center that should touch the top of the rotor. Mine was missing the center one, and was arking. This made the truck run quite poorly. The contacts in the cap and the rotor should be clean, uncorroded, unpitted and not burned for the motor to run well. If there is crap on the contacts, lightly scrape it off with sand paper or something. Reinstall the cap and see if that helps at all. If it looks pretty bad, you should buy new ones. B Sorry, but I can''t seem to upload any photos right now...

Yep, I'll bet it had poor connections... B

*snort* DID YOU TRY THE SEARCH FUNCTION?!?!?! Sorry, couldn't help myself... B