Precise1

Hmm, kinda like this? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18941 Good thread though, most people should watch it... B

Crap on all these other guys. IF you don't want to mess with it for a while and have the time(little) and tools(few), change the bearing races!!! Most people don't address bearing issues until they become evident, which is too late... Wear is progressive and is rarely a uniform wear around the diameter. It is usually 'wear points' due to misloaded or shocked bearings that are spaced at bearing load points. This means high and low spots on the race as the bearings rotate, and guess what, it will beat the tar out of them!! Anyone who thinks otherwise, get your best .0001 indicator, set up a rigid stand, lock the wheel so NO movement is allowed and then rotate and measure the 'flatness' of the race. You would be suprised!! Worst case scenario, I can show you pictures of my universal joint needle bearing cups and races; they are friggin splined!! It doesn't take much uneven wear in a race to totally compromise new bearings and who wants to do the job in another 6 months, hopefully before it catches you be suprise!! It's like replacing the thermostat/waterpump/etc when changing the timing belt. Do it all and do it right right so you don't have to for years. It's the same with bearing AND races. Unless you can measure the races well enough to determine they are good, replace them. I'm a machinist with all the tools and I don't measure them, I replace them. Meh, who listens to me anyway.. B Err, Simon has a good point, the bearings need to be sealed to last. Definitely check that out.

Ok the only things that worry me is... For some reason, I'm just not comfortable using WD-40 for medical cures... You forgot #44) Everything will smell like WD-40 for weeks... Still, I like the stuff, it's just not the cure all that some people think, regardless of the list. B

He's a nice guy and trying to help. He already posted the link, what else do you need? I think you pissed him off. Try not to. I'm not as nice as he is... B

Yep, I always had a can in my dunebuggy. The engine would stall in the rain, I'd pop the dizzy cap off, give it a spray and be driving off within 30 seconds. WD=Water Displacement, it's primary purpose, not a penetrating fluid like some people think... B

Like they said... Are the posts corroded? Is your ground cable making good contact? At both ends? How's the positive connection at the starter. Odds are one of the first two posts is the issue, but this is comething you can check in your driveway. B

Depends on the condition of the belt and WHY it was squealing. If it is just a glazed belt, a dab of bar soap works well, just be careful getting in there!! Well said. B

To try to keep things organized (and not 'lose' this post) I'm moving it to the diesel forum. Thanks for all the input guys!! B

Lets try to get it back on track, ok? Thanks! B

Check all and any diaphrams you may have in the vacuum system. A torn or frozen one could effect acceleration like you mentioned. You have checked the dizzy cap, so thats not it. Frankly, I'm running out of ideas. You may need to take it to a good mechanic just for troubleshooting. B

Ouch! Sorry for the fines, but it seems like most of this could have been avoided. Sounds like you had better cover the lights and settle with the 6 legal lights you have. I can't imagine the need for more than that, and if the weather is THAT bad, you just need to slow down... As for the reckless driving bit, that does sound like crap. Do you have LSD or locker? You may be able to explain that when one tire is in dirt and the other on the pavement, the rear end locks up and the tires will both try to grab, causing 'burning rubber'. Also point out that you only have a 150HP 3 liter v6 that is not capable of scorching tires for more than a moment. Of course, if you sprayed the cop with dirt when you took off he had a reason for an attutide. As was said before, it's only in your best interest to be a reasonable and cautious with cops as possible. B

Thats where I got mine... I'll let you know in 5 years/50k miles or whenever they give me trouble again. B

LMAO!! B

LOL, I understand. I've driven everything from a 1974 Dodge colt wagon to a 86 Porsche Carrera Turbo. Everything had its purpose, and some I still dream about (other than the colt wagon). If you want to fly though, get this... I have one for sale... B

Besides all the other sensible things you have said, I think this sums it all up. I average 15mpg driving to work and back. No freeway, some stop lights and most rolling a 45. 7 miles one way. I use a gallon a day including warming up. I could drive a APC to work and afford it. I'd never want to take either pathy, V10 or APC on a trip. Before anyone goes there, yes, I have considered biking to work, but if you saw the scary 2 foot wide bike lane and the way people drive, I prefer to pay to live. Not to mention, I refuse to ride with traffic. If some azzhat is drifting out of the lane or a dually is brushing the white line, I want to see it and have a chance to get out of the way. I don't let people hit me from behind... B

Um, no... If that was the case, you wouldn't have had a truck honk, you would have used 1/2 throttle for 5 seconds and never seen the truck. Just to note, that is not an acceptable metric. I know you are young and like the cars you are exposed to, and yes, they are ok. BUT... Do not rate handling by a Chevy Cavalier nor acceleration by a Nissan Pathfinder. PLEASE, trust me on this... B

Most have a zerk fitting for a grease gun, but sometimes you need a narrow, solid tip to get to it due to clearance. Be careful not to blow the dust caps off, or if you do, then re-seat them!! B

I'd guess that with different heads, the fuel would be off and perhaps the timing. I'd bet that the maf, O2, etc are not the same ones so the feedback to the ecu could be quite different. I don't know of any additional sensors, but I don't think it would work. B

Good answer Kit. Honestly, don't fear the manual. If you hit reverse from 5th, it'd grind for a sec but would not engage. Once you learn the gear pattern and feel, you won't do it at all. B

New belt, belt tension, belt dressing. Try any of these? B

It could be the U joints, the rear end or even in the tranny (but probably not). This is what I would do. Jack up the truck and support the rear axle well (heavy duty jackstands,etc) with the rear wheels off the ground. Chock/block the front wheels. Get in and start it. Put it in gear/reverse, etc. Now that nothing has moved, have a friend get in it and shift while you are under the truck(forward/reverse, use the e-brake to apply torque to the drivetrain). Odds are you will hear, if not actually see where/what is clunking. Just be very careful, please!! B

Manual. Period. No question. Far better control, compression braking, more reliable, better gas milage, etc... Simon just likes the automagic better because he isn't a good manual driver and he is lazy. Then there is another factor. If you blow your autotranny, its thousands of dollars to replace. If it is rebuilt, it may not last long. Heck, the site Admin hasn't had a truck running for years. Why? Autotragic... If you fry your clutch, parts cost (me) $300 for everything including new fluids in all cases, it's just a fair amount of labor. Occasionally the manual tranny's fail, but the ratio has to be 20:1 or higher and even then they are far cheaper to buy or are almost always rebuildable without issues afterwards. I believe the automagic is heavier, correct? Manual FTW!!! B

LOL, milage? What tranny, etc? Pictures? I appreciate what you are saying, but are you from Nigeria and just need some money wired to you? Just giving you a hard time, but I think you get what I'm saying. $4k for 20 word discription is pretty steep, no? B

WTF?? Is this per semester? Is it valet parking?? K9SAR!!! When plugging in, you are supposed to stop at the first ring, not all the way to the handle!!!! B

This may help more. Thank Red. Good luck and holler if you need help. B On second thought it may not help at all if you have no place to do the work. I lived at an appartment complex like that. I was 'warned' against car work when I was changing a flat tire. When I pointed out to the azzhat that if I didn't change the tire, they'd have an abandoned vehicle instead. Not to mention WTF was the difference if I did it or a tow truck driver so shaddap and leave. I digress.