Precise1

Yep, thats what everyone thinks just before they hydrolock... This is usually preceeded a few seconds by "OH SH!T !!!"" B

Sheesh, put me on the spot why don't you... Actually, I know very little about the JDM motors. People have had minor issues with some if they were out of a Maxima or something so yes, perhaps this motor was out of a Pathy or perhaps a Hardbody. I've not heard of anyone having timing or firing order problems before, but it's not like I know it all.... Unfortunately, Casey's problems have gotten to the point where you need to be there with the truck. Hmm, fuel pressure ??? Leaking injectors ? Bad injector/wire ? Dizzy issue ? You just have to play with things now... B

Yes that seems to be correct. I'll look it up when I get home... SNORKEL !!! ARB Safari is the one I want... B

Bingo with the loosening of the front 3 bolts for the t-bars, the splines seem to bind. Same for using PB blaster but NOT WD-40 !! Agreed that there is no substitute for a breaker bar. Soak the bolts, lock a wrench on the nut and give it a mighty heave ho !! They'll come loose, or you will tear the head off. Either way, the bolt is out... Easy on the shoulder though Bud, it only gets worse and the surgery sucks !! B

True, I didn't really consider that, but it felt like more than just milage, especially with the headers and relatively fresh motor I buy into the clogged cat theory, it's not like the motor ran poorly or anything, just no response... Definitely update us Martin ! B

Invest in some armor, sliders... Lift Kit ? Headers ? Oil filter relocation kit ? Electric fan set up ? Don't spend a penny on front end stuff, just save for the SAS. BTW, if you are handy, you can make your own custom skid plates from UHMW PE fairly cheaply and easily. B

I was going to guess the filler hose... Glad you found the source. Make sure to use rubber fuel line, not just rubber hose and it should last a while... B

No, not necessarily... Your sensor could be bad, you could need an oil pump, it could be wiring... The ticking could be a valve, manifold leak, etc... Don't drive it until you know you have oil pressure and then try to determine where the ticking is comming from. B

Cool, try to update feedback... B

Understatement Martin... I'd describe the front end as fuggered !! I was considering buying it to drive until I fixed the front end on my 95 or melding the two. When I drove it, the front end was considerably worse then mine. While I didn't need 2 trucks with front end issues then, now that I have moved and have a place to work I'd probably have bought it... Cool that you got it back in good shape, the steering kit will fix the rest. I was suprised by the lack of power when I drove it. It felt more like my old D720 with the Z2.4 than my heavier WD21 with the 3.0. I'd seriously say my 95 has +15-20% power. Is that inherent to the VG30I throttle body, or have you done a 'stock' tune up to make it run better ? B

*snort* B

Um... Perhaps it can lift 2000 lbs for a few moments ?? Pull a 2000 lb car out of a ditch ? No F*&^ing way !! Now... If you taped it against another piece, twisted it, did this 6 times then braided it into a rope, it may be strong enough if it isn't a steep ditch... B

Oops... ok, scratch the paint part but prep work still stands. You have to cut all the steel prior to welding, not to mention clean it up... B

There is a discussion here about poly grease (Earth 1 is the author). Use the right stuff, and no squeaks (fittings would help). As for stiffer, yes, but better control and longer life... B

If it was just that simple, it would be done... Believe me, it's being addressed. B

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5194 Are the actual sensors different ?? B

Seems to me that there was some confusion if all the MAF/s are the same (87-95). Let me try and look... B

Sorry Bud, but I've have not done brakes on the Pathy yet so I'm little help... Hopefully someone else will chime in soon. B

Design work, fixturing, prep work, painting/powercoating, warranty, etc ?? Thats why I don't try to make too many things for the trucks. If you make 10 or 50, the 50 will be much cheaper (20-50% depending). They are trying to make some $ too, no shame in that. B

I couldn't be exact as we have different models, but just look at the intakes to the box, try to plug the ones that come from the engine compartment while expanding/rerouting others towards the grill or fender/wheelwell area as long as it is well conceiled and protected. You get the point... Just don't let rain water interfere. B

Glad you like the place Matt. There is a link somewhere for the FSM, I'll try to find it... A basic Chilton or Hayes manual can be invaluable for these things to figure whats hanging it up, etc... That said, I have a manual so I have no idea... B

Makes sense to me... I never liked the cones that people have just laying out in the enging compartment. At least that is somewhat protected but should increase the intake airflow. You could even try to set the box up for more of a cold air intake unit... B

NP... Years ago at work, the guys who did the repairs would heat up the end of the thrust tubes to get the loctited ends out. Worked like a charm... B

88, heat the bolts with a torch. It defeats the loctite... B

Hmm, I'm not sure how a higher air flow would 'burn out' a MAF... Read the ECU for codes. Check to see that the MAF is is working order, check the electrical connections. Replace/repair if necessary. Reset the ECU and drive it... B