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Precise1
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Everything posted by Precise1
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Yep, did that too... Guessed wrong the first time, but was able to get it right the second time. Probably not as some are a pita to get to, but I had to loosen all of them regardless. The splines were slightly preloaded and wouldn't just slip out, but fell out when the bolts were loose. The adjustment end didn't want to slip either regardless. I pretty much took everything off, cleaned it up and reinstalled it ( a couple of times ). B
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How many miles do you get from a full tank?
Precise1 replied to zack1978's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Nice... B -
For squeaky poly bushings, check this out... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5245&st=20 B
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Hey Mr P, did you ever do that ?? Earth1, do you have an update on the two greases ?? B
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How many miles do you get from a full tank?
Precise1 replied to zack1978's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
As Slick said, although I don't think I have ever put more than 18 gallons in, even when the gauge was very low. I never felt the need to test how far I could drive on E... I don't believe so. Maybe with the electronic speedo's in the 94 and 95s ? My speedo has been fubared for 6 months... B -
Yes, you have adjustable wheel stops... Very simple really. I don't know how much you will gain as these trucks don't exactly pivot, but I'm sure you can improve it. Just don't go so far as to let things rub. B
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It's "How To Electrocute Yourself/Short Out Your Dash/Start an Electrical Fire" thread.... Sheesh, and by a Mod no less !!!! Just lick the wires like you would a 9 volt MZ... B
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Bingo. A few months ago I walked past a neighbors truck when he was finishing an oil change. When he started it, I listened then asked him to shut it off. Then I told him his #3 plug was loose, but better check them all. He was totally baffled by my ablility to figure that out in seconds. All I did was listen and wiggle a few things... Replace all of them if they need it... B
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Cool, good luck and keep us posted... B
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^ like the big dog said... That, my friend, is what it is all about. B
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Sorry, I don't know diddly about body work other than common sense. Sounds like basically the right idea though. Do you plan to reinstall the roof rack ?? You can use jack nuts. 1/4-20 will hold like 300 lbs each and are easy to install. Much to my suprise, Napa autoparts had them and plastic coated also so they don't scratch and seal better. http://www.emhart.com/products/pop/jacknut.asp B
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Well, at least you are all getting together for a pow wow... Good luck and keep a cool head. B
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You have threaded inserts in the roof. I bet they are spinning... You may have to pull the hedliner ?? First, try leveraging up so the screw (hence insert) has a load on it and try backing out the screw then. Sometimes you can bind the insert enough to keep it from spinning. B
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Sorry... Redline is one that has been recommended several times and used in my 78 VW Bug, 95 Pathy and CBR1100 with no issues. Both the cars passed smog and seemed to run good. The smog guys at a local shop I know recommend using it before hand and they don't sell it... Timing, plugs and plug wires could have an effect if they are bad. I've only had 1 car that I didn't need to smog in 20 years. I consider myself experienced. I actually time tuneups around the bi anual smog gauntlet, milage depending... B
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Sorry, but that happened too fast... You had power all the way back into the cab ? It could have been the ignition then, maybe just a wire... Good luck and please keep us informed. B
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Actually, most of the rust doesn't look bad... Still, you want to prep and coat it, but I only see a few things that are rusted solid. ONLY if you are OK with igniting chemical sprays... You are working under the gas tank. To prep the bolts, scrub off as much rust as you can from the nut, head, exposed threads and contact points. Strike vigorously 1-3 times with a hammer(but don't damage/deform it). Apply a penetrant (not WD-40 *sigh*), let it soak 12+ hours, apply some more, let it soak... Just before you try removing it, whack it with the hammer again. Then use a breaker bar, protect your knuckles, and go for broke. If it doesn't turn or snap off, then heat it and beat it some more... POR 15 is also a good treatment, many people swear by it. B
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Yep, pretty much what he said... Although pumping is bad, it can atomise the air bubbles. Best just one push... If the pedal height and or the petal free play is off a lot it could mean that you are not moving the slave cylinder far enough even if you have the petal floored... Inspecting for weeping on the mastercylinder, lines, etc is a good habit also. B
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Well, I'd guess you are out of alignment and have worn front end components. Start outward and check inward. Tires, lug nuts, shocks tie rod ends, bushings, ball joints, etc... Also look for loose parts or missing bolts... Jacking it up and properly supporting it helps a lot. B
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The squealing is comming from a (glazed ?) pully on one of the components (alt, PS, etc) that has a lot of inertia and/or could be badly worn on the revolving axis. Once the belt heats up and grips while the unit is picking up speed the squeal goes away. Only takes a second... B
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Hmm, battery ? Battery connection ?? Fusable link ? Use a volt meter and check from the battery back through the wiring. Make sure thats all ok first. B
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Yes about the 87 octane. Yes about running a tank of good injector cleaner before refilling and testing. Yes to cleaning/repalcing the air filter. Yes about EGR cleaning/testing, I had a similiar issue with a different vehicle. Yes to changing the oil just before the test, slightly heavier for an older motor cant hurt. Yes to having the motor HOT. With a new CAT and everything else you have listed, assuming all else is in good shape, it should pass... B
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Sorry, but I've never worked on a TBI and could only guess from a manual... B
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Is that an 'accent' or a tail/brake/reverse/signal light ?? Make sure to allow some light to come out... What you going to do with the third brake light, remove it and wire in a praying Jesus ??? B
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Make sure that EVERYTHING works and ask for maintanence records (timing belt, etc). Poke around good, you know what to look for... It may be worth the price. So would sell the other truck and parts or keep and build it ? Sell this speculative one when it is done, or be a proud owner of two pathys ? One for the road... B
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NP, I'm an excellent swimmer... I like the way a 9 dollar item will give you +10-20% hp and fuel economy... Thats a well kept secret !! B
