MY1PATH

thanks for the correct info. The 2wd system has longer TRE's, depending on your tires + how and where you drive you could be more prone to bending a longer TRE. I can't remember if it was N4W or 4x4parts but someone did try it. I can't remember what the result was tho. Maybe you could poke arround on those sights and let us know.

so how do you no it is not locking? because the locking action is fairly smooth when your not powering into it @ slamming. If you think its not locking because it sits still on and obstacle it may be because you have an open Diff and the opposite wheel is spinning & u can't see that one.

close, Most the manual and power boxes have the same spline diamter.(87-92 for sure) the manual box steps down more to threads for the nut where as the Power box threads are almost the same diamer as the splines. I think In 93 or 94 a differant box casting was introduced and a monster sized nut was used(60mm wrench?) but I would not be surprised if the pitman was still the same spine & diameter.

Honestly, I can't really tell the differance. Technically its a performance mod because its opening up the intake but I can't claim any gains yet. Maybe my other engine issues are messing with the result (13 mpg and exhuaust popping) and maybe once I get that sorted out it will grant me a 1/4 mpg but I can't see it doing much more in the way of power. -The concept is good and I can sleep well knowing it don't have a crumbly waffle grid sttting in my intake.-

do not poke untill it is safely out of your manifold. I'm not kidding, I could have knocked those pieces free with a small soft feather

your typical grey/silver and black checker weave carbonfiber is actually an overlay for a universal cosmetic appearance. This overlay can be use on fiberglass and kevlar(heaviest of the 3) composites as well to give the carbon look and sales pitch. this is coming from a person who manufatures, and repairs all kinds of composite fibers for aircraft. and we don't use cosmeteic overlays so the finished appearance is always differant.

I'd be interested to see one that raises the axle side instead as this supposedly raises the roll center for increased satbility I still want to do this one, you had any longterm affects of this one? (I'll search later) None, its the same ignition system just a differant coil. I think pathfinder is 32,000v and the 240 is like 38,000v or something like that. But an aftermarket 55,000v coil, as I discovered, will eventually burn out your transitor if you by aftermarket I'd say stay 45,000v(msd 8222) or lower

If you wanna install a set of 27 spline cv's you can buy my old ones.

I replaced my Idler arm with a steering box. It does not need any more modifacation. Regular Idler arms with a brace can still wear out their bushings just not as fast and the brace helps preven the bending of the small Idler shaft. It works for people but it could still be better no? SO What I meant was instead of designing a brace, why not design an better idler arm. let it rotate on a large diameter shaft (3/4" or 1") and let it turn on 2 or 3 sets of needle bearings so that it'll last a hundred times as long before ever needing service.

that still doesn't change that the arm on the manual box is shorter

yes! post #2 sorry I was slow.

Parts Total for the parts and 2 diameters of hose was about $12-$15 and the closest fitting 2 diamter hoses I could find were $12 & $23 *2" cleanout adapter with plug *2" male end plug (countsunk style was the only I could find) *1 1/2" drain cover **Brass 3/4" barb to 1" MIP adapter (I actually used a 3/4 garden hose repair fitting since they were out of the other.) **Brass 5/8" barb to 1/2" MIP adapter (I actually drilled out my old PCV valve since it already fit) Filter Assorted non-fraying metal or sythetic materials can be uses as long as they are oil resistant and can take 200 deg temps. gasket sealant or red RTV (I don't think abs primer and adheasive will agree with the vapors we will be handling) Assembly Drainback Plug take the cleanout plug and run a 1" whole saw or drill thru the inside of the square. Clean and taper the outside of the hole with a knife so you can start to put the fitting in. using large wrenches and a little bit of a silicone or teflon lube thread the 3/4" barb into the outside of the plug. once threaded back it out, clean it up with alchol and spread sealant in the corners. Re-install and smooth out the sealant so that no oil can collect arround the fitting or in the corners. Filter Housing start by cutting down the drain cover so that it is flush with the grate. Then drop it into the non-threaded side of the cleanout adapter. If the lip is too big you can sand it down untill it can be pressed down in there. Now you may notice that your male plug is concave so you'll need to cut the lip off of it so that it can be installed backwards. you can also sand down the sides so it doesn't get stuck when your test fitting. now press the plug into the cleanout adapter so that it holds the modifed drain cover in place and drill a 1/2 hole thru the adapter and the plug. MAKE SURE that you hole winds up behind the grate of the drain cover and not thru it or you will have to start over. (the closer to the back of the plug the better. Now thread your 5/8 barb thru both pieces and then dissasemble. apply sealant to plug, very moderately to lip of drain cover and re-assemble. If your 5/8 barb adapter has a sholder or un-threaded section you may have to use sealant on a washer in your assembly like mine. Filter Element I used 3 layers of a tough polyester batting because its the same stuff in my air box PCV filter. Foam or very dense mesh/screens can be used to. Just cut them out lay them against your grate and screw your drainblack plug on over them***. The filter will stop most liquds from passing because they are forced to condense when they hit it and since the fitler housing is a much larger diameter the vacum pull is reduced allowing them to stay there untill enough condenses to drip back into the valve cover. Eventually the fiter will soil enough to clog and you will need to clean or replace it. Now your ready to install it on your vehcle (short 3/4 hose on manifold and a 5/8 hose out to the PCV Valve) and you won't ever have to hunt for that odd Multi diameter hose for your PCV system again. Yes it will stand out a bit more on the MPFI VG engines. *Use black ABS plastic as it will stand up to under hood conditions better than PVC. **Diameters may vary for Non VG series engines or other breather locations. ***When you screw your plug in lightly oil it with a teflon or silicon based lube and only get it finger tight. Trust me, it will be seal just fine and will be allot easier to re-open later.

Ok so in the midst of trobleshooting some issues I went thru and cleaned up all the small things that hadn't been done yet. one of those was changing the PCV VALVE. When I removed the hose from the valve about a tablespoon of oil poured out. I have read about this happening on older engines and high vaccum engines. Also my hose which is 3/4 on one end and 5/8 on the other was so hard and brttile that it had to be replaced. What the PCV valve does is collect oil vapors and combustion gases that get past your piston rings and burn it instead of venting it to the atmosphere or caping it (which causes leaks from over-preassure). To keep it sort all engines will suck up a small amount of oil in the process and some engines will suck up more. Installing a filter allows the vapors to get burned but stops the oil. Some people have even installed catch cans for the oil. my design allows oils to run back into the valve cover when the vacum drops. Either way the end result is a cleaner engine. I made it out of ABS plasic and the assembly can bee seen in the next post

I think I lucked out on this one! I swaped out the bad mixture heater for the Gutted one today and I could plainly see where the Mixture Heater shorted out What I think all you TBI folks should see (z24i & vg30i) Is how extremely brittle the shorted out area becomes. those pieces crumbled off with very gentle finger proding. I'm aware of the severe damage potential they posess once loose I am happy that they did not come loose sooner.

I would try it, I don't think you would be anyworse off if it didn't work or only worked partially. but u'd be set if it worked fine Food for thought, everytime I have had a wet electronic (usually a cellphone) I take the batteries out for 3 days and store in a warm dry place. and they have allways powered up fine after that. (with the exeption of salt water incidents)

yep; Dual stering box mod JGC coilsprings 240zx ignition coils hardbody t-case shifters to fit our body lifts Front LSD I still haven't found; 4/87-89 300zx turbo (exept white shiro edtion) (I still haven't found one) Camshaft cores to send to schneider early 300zx turbo harmonic balancer to run serpentine belt on water pump and 2" overdrive pulley on alterantor.(this mod has not yet been confrimed)

I still have all my origianl dash bulbs. 20 years, they never went out but they did get replaced with blue LED's very recently.

Vapor lock is a thing of the past from when carbs ran ~7psi fuel line preassure. Injected engines with preassures ranging from 36psi to 60psi or higer have no isses with with this.

B did mallcrawler already scrape @ starbucks? As far as the idler arm brace why not design and Idler arm that rotates on a 1" shaft and 3 sets of needle bearings.(oh wait thats a second steering box on my frame) but seriously, a brace is just a bandaid the (ez to replace bushings) still wear out just not as quick.

losten the pulley with a 14mm wrench. (1 or 2 turns is all you need) then back off the pulley tensioner blolt just above the pulley with a 12mm untill the pulley slides down far enough to slip the belt off Just let it hang there unless u plan on driving w/ it off. The bracket will now come off with 3 bolts; 1 near the AC pump one on the opposite end of the bracket and one Hiding just below the pulley (all 12mm) when you put the belt back on the tesion should be so that you can push the belt aprox 1" with moderate effort then you can snug the pulley nut. Most places with have both sensors (guage & ecu) under the same listing the one for the ECU is technically a Cyl Head temp sensor (on vg30i) but you will likely not find one by that name. SO yes you will have to varify that it has a 2 lead plug before buying. Rock Auto denotes them seprately as "sender" and "sensor" the latter being the one you want.

technically you should turn the nut with the suspension unloaded but if its all greased and turns smoothly either end will work

yes you will be ok, 8" wide is the widest rim you should put that tire on.

I like the Idea of gettin sliders and such, thats the direction I keep meaning to go in but doesn't seem to happen. allot of it depends on where and how you wheel. i think traction up front may be a good Idea too.

Knock your self out! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19802&view=findpost&p=340099

I was asking you about it B anyway I'm pretty sure its just right there on the pump behind the timing gear easy to get to when doing a t-belt, I'll be doing mine soon enough. If there is a seal on the other side of the pump(all that work pulling diff and whatnot) It shouldn't be a drip issue because the pump is sealed against the block. I'm pretty sure If such inner pump seal existed it would just leak back into the pan.