MY1PATH

A filter will not help a heat poblem very much. But yes it can be done or both can be done.

Not all ball joints are created equal. therefore 2 differant brands may sit differant. ad that to the fact that a loose one my allow weight of the vehicle pull it one way or another in its slop and you have a completley differant alignment.

there's 25 articles on that site and you have to register on to view them all. I just linked the most pertenant ones for now....

IMO Porting will slow you down because tho you can fit more air thru a port it will be @ a lower velocity. Moto Mans articles ar quite contravsial but in the case of small engines, I belive what he says about intake shaping... http://mototuneusa.com/think_fast_intake_porting.htm http://mototuneusa.com/homework.htm http://mototuneusa.com/the_2007_superbike.htm http://mototuneusa.com/super_sonic_nozzle.htm The first 2 articles cover the concept pretty good and the last 2 just go even more in depth with the "porting actions"

You don't NEED to but I would say using the ARP head stud kit for the z31 300zx is a good Idea.

those are the ones I have, Beefy but not without issues... The UCA itself does not provide the lift, what it does is allow you to lift the vehicle without throwing out the alignment (depending on how much you crank the t-bars) Yes, I misread your post. NO, as stated above I used NEW aftermarket frpmt springs for the XJ advertised @ 3" of lift for the XJ cherokee. (not grand) You can Call RC and order them seperate from the kit http://roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_3.html (PN 9262 @ $129 a pair) or they often pop up on e-bay as well Yes, also found here http://roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_3.html (PN 9262 @ $129 a pair)

VQ series engines WILL NOT bolt to VG series transmissions.

Yes and NO.... R50's have a reverse cut High pinoin version of the R200a. This allows for less gear wear when being used for a Front wheel drive. This was prolly done because The R50 is always locked... that said It still will not hurt your wd21 to allow your autos to stay engaged in 2wd. With my locking hubs I lock them @ the trail and will still use 2wd for allot of it which is the same thing you are doing by not backing up after going to 2hi. your safe.

AC also does a 1" for $100 per request

ouch! I've seen MR Jims ARB and it is a WAY BETTER product than KMA could ever hope to produce. I recomend finding a local fab shop. Things seem to get done a little better when your coustomer lives in the same neighborhood...

Ok, So the cams are here. once I calculate differance in base circle I will make lifter shims and a lifter shim video. and I hope to be able to install these by the end of March. (It would make a great b-day present for me from me)

X2 Your awesome My 89 has blue guages I converted from a nissan stanza, the spedo goes up to 125 now an need an engine that will do the same. Frames are good, old nissan frames give you a platform thats sturdy like a tank(mine totaled a blazer and still drove me to work the same day) a 2DR MPFI would be my favorite. My 89 is my top choice because I grew up with it but if I had another it would be a 90-93. Not too many extra accesories to weigh it down, mechanical guages that I am very good @ fixing by now and 4 doors make family things easy since I got a little one on the way....

It can hurt them It just depends on how hard you goose it before they engage and how fast the rear wheel spun before the front locked because thats how much force and momentum is goning to that floating spline ring inside the hub. Guys on N4W have broken em that way on climbs but if you don't go ape you should be ok.

Um before you to that You should all go to several other boards and see the ISSES PEOPLE HAVE HAD. I think NOAS, NOR and texas nissan offroad all have complaints about KMA. I personally think they are a bunch of lazy @$$#oles who don't take pride in their work. I recived an unfinished poduct with dangerously sharp edges, barely acceptable welds and missing a K-brace. They asked me to measure my frame to bumper(21") and they would send me a K-brace the next day. 3 weeks later I recieve this 17" peice of scrap with 2 holse cut in it and I still can't figure out how to make it stretch another 5" do its job. Not to metion I waited 5 months (houding them constantly) for a product I was origally quoted 2-3 weeks production time! http://npora.ipbhost...l=&fromsearch=1 Basically I got Fsck'd and once my back heals I'l be buying a welder and grinder to finish their POS and clean up all the sharp edges.

HMM I set my timing @ 600 rpm and then turn the idle back up.... (fully warmed up, all accesories & lights turned off)

I had no change in anthing other than peace of mind. I suspect a vacum problem in your case; Did all your vacum lines go back in the same place? Could you have disturbed an old line enough to crack it? Did you put your fuel lines back In the right postion on the FPR? (one from filter goes on the lower fitting and return line goes on the curved upper fitting.) My truck runs exactly the same as it did before I removed it.

I used NEW aftermarket springs for the XJ advertised @ 3" of lift for the XJ cherokee. (not grand)

JJ, B and Kingman have it right. 12~13 is stock for your 89 TBI V6. If you do allot of Higway Miles you may benifit from running 15*

When I got my OEM Maual hubs @ the JY I went to nissan to see how much I would have spent for new ones. They could still get them and list price was $400 for a pair.

I belive CV's are interchangeable on all the 27 & 28 spline vehicles listed above.... So if you have a 27 spline and you found a cheap set of 28 spline locking hubs and your CV's just happen to need changed you could buy and install 28 spline CV's as your replacement instead of the 27's you originally had and vise versa.

when I firtst did my headers my TBI got me 22.5 one trip from seattle. Its not very often that I drive with bald tires, no spare on back and no seats installed (let allone no clutter to add weight) so I don't think I will see that # again any time soon. Most road trips MY TBI gets me in the 18.5-19 range and thats a fully loaded vehicle. People who have done 3.3 swaps have also reported a 1-2 mpg gain because the engine is not working as hard. So I'm thinking if you do 3.3 & MPFI you May gain 3-4 MPG. Now thats big! Get your 3.3 from engine and engine improter or ebay. you will find them with under 60k for about $1-2k in good condition. let this link help guide you. http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=205223&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

I was stubborn, I went with calmini. I must say they are the heaviest and beefest UCA's out there(overbuilt) and work best for 2-2.5" They are well known for their past squeaking issues but their newer bushings and the use of Energy Suspension Formula 5 has remedied that. they did not prep the metal very well for the powdercoat (welding slag is still on metal ) and the Ball joint cutouts didn't match the fastener holes by about 1/16" eventually I well cut out some of the extra material on the UCA because it hits my rancho shocks and also makes it hard to torque check the UCA bolts unless I jack the front end. Would I do it again? Possibly, they are beefy as hell and I'm stubborn like that... Rough Country/ Superlift is your best bet since Rancho doesn't make em anymore. I bought 3" lift srpings for the jeep XJ Cherokee(front springs for our rear) from rough country and cut the pigtail off. their 3" lift spring is the same spring rate as the stock pathfinder spring (only its 3" taller) making it the softest spring option for the pathfinder. Likely only 2.5" lift for a 4dr. (it also allows the most drop without losing the spring)

I gotta call BS on this one, You have to add allot more power to exeed a transmissions original capabilites. Besides; VG33ER in the xterra and frontier 210/250 hp/tq... same trannys used in the wd21 with no upgrades to the internals. VG30DETT in the z32 300/283 hp/tq... some of them had the same 5 spd with no upgrades available and others had a BorgWarner T5 I bet the stock MT could handle a heavily Modded 250-300 hp Pathfinder with similar torque and I wouldn't be surprised if a well cared for AT wasn't far behind. 3.5L's don't apply becuase the 3.5 Is a VQ series engine and was mated with VQ series transmissions(not just the bell housing was differant)

the coils are good but those UCA's don't correct the ball joint angle, they only help with alignment. Find a compromise, you can get the coils from 4x4 parts and then get somone elses UCA's and then some longer shocks in the back.

the chain would only make noise when in 4x4 and it takes some work to stretch it(jumping, big tires, aftermarket t-case gears...) anyway be sure to check the fwd seal on the new t-case before you install it... because if it leaks not only do you gotta take the case off again but the WHOLE CASE (all 3 sections) has to come apart to change the FWD seal (seal goes in and out from the inside) the other case seals can be replaced on the vehicle.