MY1PATH

I disconnect 1 side only, that gives freeflex and keeps it from hanging donw. @ some point I plan to invert the sway bar so the ends mount to the axle and the clamps mount to the frame. The ends on the axle will be heims with a lync pin and when Its disconected they will clip to a braket on the body to keep them out of the way.

somone did for their rig. I beive they said they could feel no benifit from doing so. I think they spaced it up to 1/2". I am also under the belief that a spacer used on a carburator style intake manifold is pretty much useless. What will benifit you is gutting out your mixture heater as that is a nearly useless restriction in the intake. and there are other good reasons to remove it... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25383&view=findpost&p=469472

Power to the second box won't do anything for you unless you have input a steering wheel shaft. Now if you could put a gear on the input shaft and run a chain or cross shaft over to a gear on your primary box you might get the double power assist. Both should be run inline off the stock steering pump. You can modify the restrictor valve to increase flow for 2 boxes. Or... You can modify the restrictor valve to increas flow/psi to get more work out of your single box. Finding a smaller steering pulley may also help.

On the TBI you will need the MSD pn 8910-eis to make the tachometer work. Untill you get that unit you can hook it up white wire and run without a tach untill you get it. It's pretty simple I mounted mine to the vertical fenderwall next to the battery (had to slide the battery over a bit) +/- are the heavy wires to the battery. your black wire between the coil and transistor on the truck will be you 12v switched positive so the MSD red and orange wires get spliced in there your blue wire between the coil and transistor on the truck will be you negitve so the MSD white and black wires get spliced in there Once you get you 8910-eis disconnect the MSD white wire and splice the EIS white wire in its place. The EIS red wire gets spliced whre the MSD red wire is (12v switched) BOTH MSD AND EIS WIRES are spliced to your black wire. Plug the green & purple EIS wires into the MSD box and you will now have a working tach. Using an aftermarket coil with the MSD box creates more juice than the TBI dizzy can handle. You may experice burnt rotors, misfires(maybe), and wear thru your cap and rotors pretty fast. My solution to this was to run a dizzy from a 90-95 pathy all the reasons and details can be found here; Converting To A 90-95 Distributor or you could just run the stock coil with the box until you get to the dizzy swap. Lasly, plug gap and heat range... MSD reccomends going 1-2 ranges colder and increasing the gap in .005" increments untill best performance is found. It runs pretty good @ a .050" gap (.006" larger than stock) and is plenty big gap so I din't push it any farther than that. Heat Range...the tbi plug is an NGK bcpr5e-11 (thats NGK heat range 5) one range colder is a bcpr6e-11 NGK bkr6ey is also 1 range colder and is used in the 90-95 pathfinders(do you see an ignition trend here?) anyway the bkr6ey protrudes 3/64" deeper into the cyl (closer to 1/16" once gaped to .050) this allows the heat range to cover a broader range of temps since it is closer to the intake air stream. It also makes for more regualar combustion because its closer to the bulk of the mixture and because the combustion does not have to travel as far before it reaches the piston. I have been having pretty good results with the bkr6ey so far and don't wory, even gaped @ .050" there is still plenty of mechanical clearance for this plug to run safely inside your engine. Once said and done you should have a smoother idle and smoother acceleration and it may even feel a bit stronger. enjoi and thanks for shrinking your sig pic

Don't forget to get the power Pitman because the manual pitman is .2" shorter. AND USE A PITMAN PULLER. your on your way to better steering!

its just a TBI pathy manifold milled down with an adapter welded to it.

No BL reqired for the Manual box. Just look @ mine, it fits fine w/o a BL.

I also broke 5 steering boxes using a pickle fork in a JY trying to get another arm for my dummy steering box. My Pitman on the broken box didn't come off either, I had torqued it untill the splines dissapeared which was way too much. So I had to drill a new pitman for my HooHaa steering and torque it to the spec 180ftlbs this time. You'll have to call redhead for specifc pricing on a rebuild, they'll prolly want your core for a few days. I called them to get a better picture for everyone else since the price can vary allot based on what the box needs. The older boxes run arround $270-290 (87-89, 90 & 91-92) The newer bigger housing housings(with the 70mm nut lol) run a little higher like mid to low $300's In worst case scenario if one of the shafts are damaged or something bad maybe up to $450 They will do almost any manual or power nissan box. They also supply from the highest quality manufacturer for steering racks in-case any of you r50 folks need help. A box from rock auto would have run me over $300 and not been as good. So Considering they do more than any major Reman company I'd say those are very competive prices.

the 3.3 villager had the pistons machined more and yet a smaller cam than the already tiny cam found in the nissan 3.3 that's Fords way of "solving the problem" the end result is the engine breathes less and has 8.8 or 8.9 CR instead of 9:1 the Quest is all the same internals and I'm quite sure it is still interfereance. The oil filter and acccesory locations I'm sure are all differant as well but may still fit with some custom pipe work and 6 guage electrical, or you could try and swap accesory mounts from your 3.0 I like that 3.3 is your solution to a RMS leak

that last one was done really well, thats what mine will end up looking like. one day....

so did the plastic seal pop out where the plug is or did the sesor it self come out? Glad I could be of help. Just pass it on the next time you see somone needs help.

DAMMIT I wanted to be the first person to do that! It was a little long and a little wide wasn't it? (I measured my friends b4 he tried to shoot me for taking it lol) I can see you trimmed the front to match the pathy step down and roof length which makes the fairing sit funny. I would either leave the fairing off or find a way to make it fit the new position and look normal.(may reqire trimming the top of the fairing) I think the ends of the cross bars come off so you can trim and re-drill them to make the rack narrower and match the roof profile better(again got chased away lol) But all and all good project now I'm not in a rush to get it done cause I won't be the first anymore....

Not too long ago my steering box broke, It started allowing about 120degrees of play in the wheel before the box would allow. It was like playing pong every time I hit a pothole or bump in the road. The reason my box broke, so all you are forewarned, is because I used a Pickle fork to remove my pitman when I was installing my hoohaa steering. ALWAYS USE A PITMAN PULLER!!! The pickle fork prys between the pitman and the box which also pulls the pitman shaft against an ajuster @ the top of the box. the ajuster is held on by 2 small tabs at the top of the shaft and when they break your shaft will drop down about 1/4"-1/2" with no luck in getting the arm off. Now your pitman shaft gear is not properly aligned and you'll have debris (broken ajuster tabs) drifing arround in your box. the consequence is not immediate but it is eventual... It took over a year for mine to fail. PITMAN PULLER- This toll works like a gear puller pusing on the shaft and pulling on the arm there are no 3rd party parts that can get effected or damaged when using a pitman puller. Now for the good stuff... Red-Head Steering Gears is a company based out of Seattle that remanufactures steering boxes like ours. A friend at work told me about them when my box broke I looked arround and they do seem to have a good review going for them and so I found my self an acceptional product as well. They do more than remaufacture, their boxes include many details that normal remans don't include like the replacement of reciculation balls on our worm gears. No other major company does this but yet it makes for a huge differance in how much freeplay can be felt in the steering wheel. The Red Head box combined with my HooHaa steering and dummy steering box for the idler arm have made my steering and aligment feel better than I can ever remember and I am sure I will now get many more years out of my steering on and off road. These guys will do buisness cross country so if you want a box rebuilt by the best you should check them out....http://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/Process.html

would you mind shrinking your bumble bee pathy sig a little please?

If you look on N4W there is a guy who made a wedge shaped BJ spacer and misalignment washers to position his BJ's correctly on his BJ. It may be hit and miss but I also don't like how the tubing ends in a gusset to the BJ mouting where RC/Superlift arems the tubing goes all the way to the end of the BJ mounting thus elimnating the need for a gusset.

Being chain driven is pretty much the only weakness to the tx10. next time, if you can find the wider chanin from the older models I would install that instead. There are some ways you can extend you chain life; Don't goose it in 4x4 in otherwords try to use smoother aplications of throttle. I realize this is not always possible but if you make an efforts it will last longer. If you decice to get airborne try to do it in 2wd because all 4 wheels spin at differant speeds when the suspension flexes @ landing and does not differentiate front to rear causing stress on the entire driveline (esp the chain)

I usually run the hose thru something on the way down (tire carier, bumper or maybe a tripod on the side) so that I don't even have to hold it while I'm waiting for the oil to run down the hose...

Cost? I've seen them sell on ebay for as little as $900 and under 100k. Many can be found from importers (who sell on ebay too) for $1-2k and usually only have 50-60k miles on them. They were often replaced for small things like oil pan leak or RMS leak because in Japan they find it more cost effective to change an engine than chase a leak(to comply with their clean roads laws) then they come over here and sell for cheap.

MY sensor the seal for the plastic plug got weak with age and it was leakin out arround there. any worse and the plastic may have been pushed out allowing a nice little jet for 10-60psi of oill to shoot out from. its that flower shaped plug(12 point wrench) above the oil filter. and it was only a few bucks to replace

It may be the little baby cam that comes stock in the 3.3 helping you pass too. I wonder if it would pass with the 3.0 cam or even an aftermarket cam? YES but you may or may not need to ream the holes for the 10mm studs

go to the harware store and get a 3/4" pipe male fitting(MIP) with a 5/8" or 3/4" BARB on one side then get 6ft of clear preassure hose to go with it, ya know for like washers and stuff...(non preasure hose collapses to easy). now you can thread the fitting into your manual tranny, t-case, front diff or rear diff and slip the hose over it and using a funnel on the other end easily pour the oil in. watch the clear hose near the fitting, when it starts to stay filled catch the exess in an oil tray when you dissconnect. Install plug and wipe with rag. If you know your oil quantity before hand and your patient (let the hose drip try for a few before removing)you can do this without even a drip.

Thanks man, I'm just waiting on a new balancer and then I'll do a basline dyno pull. After that I need to have a enough time off and $$$ for a place to do it. My friends are moving out so I can't do it there so I may rent a garage or more likely I will enlist the help of a mechanic I know who works out of his own property (5 car garage turned into a pro shop lol). That way I have a place and a full shop and an experienced professional should anything un-expected come up. P.S. I'm also still tuning my new MSD system.

A shim can also be installed between the lifter valve an lifter piston using the same formula above but this shim must be carefully and smoothly macined to match the exact dameter of the pistonor premature wear will occur.They must also have hole in the center to allow Oil to the valve. This Is really the best method of shimming as it does more work than just preloading the spring because it does not allow the lifter to collapse as much. This benifits the engine at ALL times and reduces the loss of lift suffered from low oil PS or RPMs over 5500 where the hydraulic action is not fast enough to maintain full lift. Both methods can be used together with no change in thickness calculations. As a precaution, if using a shim between the lifter valve and lifter piston they MUST be fitted and closely inspected for proper intake and exhauset vavle closure(check all of them). I would prefer to do this inspection with the head off the vehicle and for this reason(and due to the complicaton of machining) I did not put a shim between the valve and piston in my lifters. But if my next build uses regrinds I will likley do so. This is also the same method 300zx guys use to make their lifters solid. But the shim they use completly locks the lifter @ the lowest reqired height so that the lifter nolonger has any hydraulic action. Getting that exact thickness becomes a complicated and time consuming project...

x2 x3

I would think the 3.3 would run better on the 3.0 ECU. less codes and emissions systems to drag it down. My friend throws codes in his X every time he coes wheeling because the stupid carbon canister gets wet.... yes but it would be a tired old vg30 leaving and a newer or rebuilt 3.3 going in so I'm sure the differance at the wheels would be more than 15hp and don't forget the 202 ftlb torqe output (thats 30 ftlbs more torque) BEST OF ALL Now he's got a great platform to begin modding on... running the smaller 3.0 intake runners will increase air-charge & velocity to improve torqe (may reduce peak hp tho) and installing a stock 3.0 cam will yeid gains again OR any aftermarket cam for the 3.0 will now yeid an additional 10% more than it would in a 3.0