MY1PATH

FALSE! I'm running my stock "drum MC" with my rear discs for a year now with no issues. I read on here that another member had switched to a Disc MC some time after running the drum MC on his disc swap and he said he could not tell any differance in the MC itself or in braking charcteristics. So I decided to leave my DRUM MC in place. BUT I may go for that 1" MC if my 15/16" ever fails.

first of all its not a carb, Idono how maytimes I say this but it has 2 electronic fuel injectors at the top of the throttle body. Second it is not a complete turd, in fact mine has 240k on it and I will likely be building another motor on the same setup. Now for your swaps... 3.3 and 3.0 are the same short block with the exeption of a larger bore and the water jacket holes are about 1/8 inch off but the can be aligned to the others heads by routing out the differance in the head gasket to allow proper flow. 3.3 heads use the same internals but were made using a superior casting process and have 10mm exhaust studs instead of 8mm Your best bet if you are looking at 3.3 swaps AND parts from your 91 would be to; swap the ECU, harness, sensors, TB, manifold and all MPFI @!*% from the 91 onto a 3.3 block and heads (3.0 ecu is simpler and has less stupid codes to throw and 3.3 intake was too big to maintain a High torqe air charge) when you put it into your 2 door.

I bet you could rig a stabilizer for an r50... clamp it to the TRE and have another bracket mount near the rack....

My 180amp ford alty has been running on a V belt under normal tension with no problems as far as slippage. I have been considering getting an early 300zx turbo setup which puts water and alty on a 4 rib s-belt. The steering and a/c would stay the same but this would allow me a smaller pulley for the alty since the 180a I have is a high cut in.

I think that has been resloved, MPG's are on the way up won't know till I fill again but I think I may be getting better than I used to for my horrible On base driving. You try being forced to drive 15-20mph to and from work everyday with your titan and tell me what your MPGs look like.

The crank angle sensor is just below the rotor so It will automatically detect it.

yes, thats why I said they are all interchangealbe. even r50s and w/d22's 1"mc will work.

calipers were steel piston and plastic piston units for the front I don't know if one was better than the other. Master Cyls were 15/16 bore in the ealry models and 1" bore in the late models I'm not sure the year of the change over. resivors varied as well but they all do the same thing. all the above are interchangeable.

VG30i I set my TBI to 15 deg The tbi always reaches a full advance of 30 degrees from where you set it. IF you set it too far from 12(spec) it will throw a Crank angle code. VG30e the spec for the MPFI is 15 deg. the mpfi compensates electrically so no matter where you try to set it the ecu will try resume the same advance curve it was programed with. and It may or may not throw other codes if you stray too far from 15

spicer is a good line as long as you get their premium part. there 2nd teir (spicer red flag I think its called) may not be as nice.

Good input. I think mine will be fine and really as long as its directly above the valve cover it sould recieve plenty of engine heat. I took mine apart to day just to check on it. Its def doing its job! The first ply is lightly satined and has fresh oil condensed on it from my drive. the other 2 have not received any residue or saturation(they are dry). The drainback plug is all glossy So I can tell the condensed oil is going back into the valve cover when the vacum drops (other wise the other filters would be soaked) and the manifold side of the housing is dry as a bone. I wanted to add that because the filter hosing is 2" compared to the 3/4 and 5/8 ends there is pretty much ZERO flow restriction on the pcv funtion even with 3 plys of poly breather in there. If you build one you'll see for youself, you should be able to blow (or breathe lol)thru the assembly quite easlily. And this time when I closed it I went finger tight and then backed it off a 1/4 turn becuase even after a week it got stiff.

I'm not knocking the flywheel, It is a proven MPG gain and a lighter balance which is good for engine life (thats reason enough for me) I'm just makin sure you know what else to expect(as in pretty much no other benefit to a pathfinder) look on N4W for info about clutches I think you'll find that as much as they "roast" their clutches on the trail the OEM ones have always kept grabbing longer than aftermarket. I my first OE clutch wasn't even in need of replacement @ 190k but it was done anyway because it was part of whole the trany swap package.

UPDATE; I asked Schneider how it was comin "WILL SHIP 2/18 BY UPS" hey thats some time today so I should have them next week @ the latest. I got all my other engine issues cleaned up so now its just saving up for the before/after dyno, finding a place to work(and time off do do the work), shim the lifters, machine the location washers and boom!

Hope u feel better then. I was gettin 12 mpgs and it was poping out the exhaust. it smelled rich and I suspected and injection problem but it was really gunked up vlalves not seating properly or letting proper flow arround them. I did some intensive cleaning measures directly to the valves and it is much better now

the 300zx fidanza and stillen flywheels fit the pathfinder 3.0 and 3.3. Many belive the pathfinder/pickup OEM clutch to be be superior to any aftermarket "upgrade". a flywheel will let you rev quicker and may save a MPG or 2 BUT less rotating mass on the flywheel means less torque derived from inertia. What that means is that if you are charging @ an obstacle on the trail it will take less restance to slow your driving down. get stuck in the mud cause you couldn't keep your tires spinning fast enough?

right after you shift? right when you go from letting off the gas ->to dumping more fuel in there to accelerate... could it be fouling out? did you look @ the pulgs themselves? are they dark or oily?

or stay tuned for my upcoming cam install and maybe you will try one too! (feels like its taking forever to get it done) JJ your truck feels pretty good don't it? I mean its not a sports car but a newer engine with decent regrind cam I'm sure its got more pep than most pathys.

well if its a manual transmission the last 1/2qt of oil thats in the tranny will spill out because it seals against the t-case. put a bag or someting over the end so dirt from your under carrage doesn't get inside. this little bit doesn't come out when you drain becase there is a rise in the casting to the output bearing that separates the last section from the drain plug. If its an AT forget everything I just said all will be fine.

Sorry to hear about the flu but I'm glad everything is going smooth again. I finally resolved some isses this weekend too so I know the feeling of "oh finally, this is great" too bad you couldn't fully enjoi it. You said it was imediately after you work was done Did you use any aerosols or other vaporus cleaners while doing the work or while cleaning up? some people are more sensitive to those than others and they can cause flu like symptoms or respitory problems.

I think that should plug into the fusable link for your charging harness...

I have no idea, maybe some sort semi condutive metal embeded textile, like maybe sivler embeded ceramic? So that when the currnet runs across the embeded particles it it heats up like a resistior would. could be something else tho.

just leave the hubs off that'll help mpg

I guess your linkage boots aren't so worn you can see thru them lol. Lucky you. carefully peel back the boot, they tear easily as mentioned above and there are little bolts under there that conect the links to the t-case lever and sift shaft arm.

I hoped it was the problem, but it did not solve it 4 me. I can when the ecu reaches closed loop because it cuts power to the heater plug and it does that @ about 140f-150f. I'm still trying to narrow it down but its looking like a dirty valve issue sice I could see intake 3&4 when I took the TBI off. I'll also be tesing for injector leaks 2day.

my tail pipe exits in the rear fender well just behind the lower link mount. It sits between the lower link and the frame. Its very much out of harms way, not even the link can touch it. look for it 1:12 into the vid.